Need Help (Indy)...Rear Control Arm Ball Joint
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Indianapolis Indiana
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Need Help (Indy)...Rear Control Arm Ball Joint
Well, I've dug into the wheel stud replacement job and realized I do not have the Kent Moore ball joint replacement tool I need.
I need some advice to get this job done in a timely manner:
1) I would love to get my hands on the Kent Moore tool (part #: J-42188-1) that the dealership supposedly uses. I know a few guys have it, and if anyone would be willing to rent it to me or point me to one cheaper than the ~$180 I might even purchase it.
2) Per Jake Latham's C5 site (an excellent resource BTW) he was able to do this with a standard fork, but after a few jabs I'm getting nervous that I might damage something and could use some more detailed help if anyone else has taken this part off with a control arm fork:
http://www.jakelatham.com/c5/misc/
See step #14 under rear wheel bearing writeup to see where I am currently stuck.
3) I've read LG's writeup that you can drill the parking brake plate, but others haven't been able to reproce his results and I'm not a big fan of drilling that area.
So those are my options (sorted by preference) to get the job done.
...any help would be greatly appreciated!!
I need some advice to get this job done in a timely manner:
1) I would love to get my hands on the Kent Moore tool (part #: J-42188-1) that the dealership supposedly uses. I know a few guys have it, and if anyone would be willing to rent it to me or point me to one cheaper than the ~$180 I might even purchase it.
2) Per Jake Latham's C5 site (an excellent resource BTW) he was able to do this with a standard fork, but after a few jabs I'm getting nervous that I might damage something and could use some more detailed help if anyone else has taken this part off with a control arm fork:
http://www.jakelatham.com/c5/misc/
See step #14 under rear wheel bearing writeup to see where I am currently stuck.
3) I've read LG's writeup that you can drill the parking brake plate, but others haven't been able to reproce his results and I'm not a big fan of drilling that area.
So those are my options (sorted by preference) to get the job done.
...any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
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From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
Are you are trying to seperate the rear ball joint from the A Arms (Knuckle) ?
If so I used a rubber mallet and a 2 x 4. I put 2 x 4 over the bolt and wacked it with a rubber mallet. It popped out in a couple of blows.
If so I used a rubber mallet and a 2 x 4. I put 2 x 4 over the bolt and wacked it with a rubber mallet. It popped out in a couple of blows.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Indianapolis Indiana
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I went to autozone today, but all they had were a Pittman arm type of puller, which I don't believe would fit and probably damage the aluminum control arm. If you know of a place that has the Kent Moore tool or other tool that works I would love to learn.
I'm located at in the Meridian-Kessler area, just off N Meridian around 61st..
I'm trying to separate the lower control arm ball joint from the spindle...I hope I have that straight. It's step 14 of the Jake Latham link above.
I don't think a 2x4 would fit in there. I imagine you're taking about removing the tie rod, which I was able to do.
Thanks for the replies! I hope the car isn't down too long messing with all this.
I'm located at in the Meridian-Kessler area, just off N Meridian around 61st..
I'm trying to separate the lower control arm ball joint from the spindle...I hope I have that straight. It's step 14 of the Jake Latham link above.
I don't think a 2x4 would fit in there. I imagine you're taking about removing the tie rod, which I was able to do.
Thanks for the replies! I hope the car isn't down too long messing with all this.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 132
Likes: 2
From: Melbourne FL
Hhmmm - unfortunately I can't help you on where to find that part or any experiences with what you're doing but if you need an extra hand feel free to give me a call. The only tool rental place I have experience with is K & R Tool on the southside (465 and Emerson); but I doubt they would have that type of specialty tool.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Team Owner
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 23,682
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From: Flagstaff Az.
ball joint
Originally Posted by ajg1915
Are you are trying to seperate the rear ball joint from the A Arms (Knuckle) ?
If so I used a rubber mallet and a 2 x 4. I put 2 x 4 over the bolt and wacked it with a rubber mallet. It popped out in a couple of blows.
If so I used a rubber mallet and a 2 x 4. I put 2 x 4 over the bolt and wacked it with a rubber mallet. It popped out in a couple of blows.
I did the same thing to mine when I put in the chrome moly studs from DRM. They came right off with a couple of whacks.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,475
Likes: 97
From: KY/TN
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16
HarborFreight sells cheap, inexpensive tools. I don't know if one of these will work, but it is worth a look.
http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearc...ord=ball+joint
http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearc...ord=ball+joint
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Thread Starter
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From: Indianapolis Indiana
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Originally Posted by leaftye
You're looking for this.
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From: Indianapolis Indiana
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Originally Posted by tiojames
I did the same thing to mine when I put in the chrome moly studs from DRM. They came right off with a couple of whacks.
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From: San Diego, CA "leaf" "tee" "e"
Originally Posted by BQuicksilver
Read the post. I'm well aware that having that would be best (heck, I gave the part #). If at all possible I'd rather not throw that $$ at the project unless I absolutely have to, and I know others have separated things without it.
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From: Indianapolis Indiana
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Alright, the job is done. I thought I'd return to impart what I've learned:
- You don't need the Kent Moore tool
- The standard fork puller on Jake Latham's site is probably a bad idea...you'll either scar the aluminum or break the grease fitting open.
- A good old 2x4 and heavy 3lb hammer worked after several blows. there was no damage to the suspension anywhere.
It really helps to use a jack and lift the suspension up at the parking brake to get the leaf spring to help you with the hammer. Some of the bolts in the area are also easier to remove with the suspension jacked up a few inches.
I also didn't find that you needed to pry the ball joint back on as noted in Latham's site. Just get a wrench in and it all toqued down without drama. You will need to use an allen wrench to hold the tie rods in when torquing them.
- You don't need the Kent Moore tool
- The standard fork puller on Jake Latham's site is probably a bad idea...you'll either scar the aluminum or break the grease fitting open.
- A good old 2x4 and heavy 3lb hammer worked after several blows. there was no damage to the suspension anywhere.
It really helps to use a jack and lift the suspension up at the parking brake to get the leaf spring to help you with the hammer. Some of the bolts in the area are also easier to remove with the suspension jacked up a few inches.
I also didn't find that you needed to pry the ball joint back on as noted in Latham's site. Just get a wrench in and it all toqued down without drama. You will need to use an allen wrench to hold the tie rods in when torquing them.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,764
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From: Fort Collins CO
Heya Brody -
Just happened to visit CF for the first time since about March or so, thought I'd chime in. (you know, now that it doesn't matter anymore
)
I'll add those bits and pieces to the word docs that I have on the ol' site - I'm glad they've been so much help.
In terms of the pickle fork (aka "fork puller"), I recall that the orientation of the forks mattered as to whether or not I nuked the boot when trying to pop the knuckle off of the lower control arm. Time has clouded what that orientation was, though. I don't recall where I found the replacement boots either - I think perhaps a friendly Chevy tech pulled them off of some stock arms for me as a favor.
Glad you got the project done, and sorry for the delay replying - I didn't get any IM notification from the PM you sent...
Cheers!
-Jake
(jake.latham@gmail.com)
Just happened to visit CF for the first time since about March or so, thought I'd chime in. (you know, now that it doesn't matter anymore
)I'll add those bits and pieces to the word docs that I have on the ol' site - I'm glad they've been so much help.
In terms of the pickle fork (aka "fork puller"), I recall that the orientation of the forks mattered as to whether or not I nuked the boot when trying to pop the knuckle off of the lower control arm. Time has clouded what that orientation was, though. I don't recall where I found the replacement boots either - I think perhaps a friendly Chevy tech pulled them off of some stock arms for me as a favor.
Glad you got the project done, and sorry for the delay replying - I didn't get any IM notification from the PM you sent...
Cheers!
-Jake
(jake.latham@gmail.com)
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From: Indianapolis Indiana
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No problem Jake, you still managed to walk me through most of the job with that handy writeup. Big thanks.
That pickle fork just made me very nervous since most any pressure would be exerted on either an aluminum suspension point or difficult to replace grease fitting. I probably didn't get the orientation right, but it sure wasn't for a lack of trying.
That pickle fork just made me very nervous since most any pressure would be exerted on either an aluminum suspension point or difficult to replace grease fitting. I probably didn't get the orientation right, but it sure wasn't for a lack of trying.
