Battery relocation?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,627
Likes: 143
From: Goodyear Az
Battery relocation?
Has anyone out there considered doing it, or has actually gone through with it? The only spot that looks like it could be done is with the center depression near the rear bumper (some of you may have your 6-CD changer there) since its large enough.
Vettaholic
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: Wherever I drive my vette
Nope. I relocated mine in the bin behind the passenger side rear wheel. It is big enough to house the battery and is closer to the rocker panel (where I routed the cables). Also better for mass balancing.
I manufactured a battery support tray using plywood, which I installed at the bottom of the bin. Then I built a restraining bracket out of aluminum, to keep the battery down there. That bracket attaches to the fasteners where the stoclk bin cover attaches to. Of course, I tossed that cover, because anyway I am redesigning the entire trunk area.
Several people did this mod, you can certainly find some ideas by using the search function on "battery relocation".
Have fun
I manufactured a battery support tray using plywood, which I installed at the bottom of the bin. Then I built a restraining bracket out of aluminum, to keep the battery down there. That bracket attaches to the fasteners where the stoclk bin cover attaches to. Of course, I tossed that cover, because anyway I am redesigning the entire trunk area.
Several people did this mod, you can certainly find some ideas by using the search function on "battery relocation".
Have fun
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,627
Likes: 143
From: Goodyear Az
Originally Posted by BlueThunder2000
Nope. I relocated mine in the bin behind the passenger side rear wheel. It is big enough to house the battery and is closer to the rocker panel (where I routed the cables). Also better for mass balancing.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,911
Likes: 1
From: Augusta GA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
I just bought one from Thunder Racing and it goes on in a few weeks with a roll bar. We are putting it in the back, passenger side like mentioned before. I have heard that this mod helps like a 100 lb loss in a C5. Good luck!!!
Dave
Dave
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,627
Likes: 143
From: Goodyear Az
It sounds like that's the place to put it, but doing a search of "battery relocation" in the C5 sections yielded no useful results. Ditto for "relocate battery" and "move battery", but in any case, the passenger side trunk pit is the spot.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,384
Likes: 8
From: Southwest Virginia
What battery (type, brand and model, top or side post) are you guys using in the right rear compartment?
Does the battery, cables, and hold downs all fit below the top of the compartment so a lid can be used?
I'm wanting to do this but can't find a battery that fits in there good.
Does the battery, cables, and hold downs all fit below the top of the compartment so a lid can be used?
I'm wanting to do this but can't find a battery that fits in there good.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 31
From: Silver Spring MD
battery relocation
Guess you folks like LONG THICK BATTERY CABLES running to your trunk.
How about VOLTAGE DROP. Lets see how you like starting the cars in WINTER when its below zero. I had a chattering starter when I used some #2 cables when I had the battery out. I wouldn't recommend 10 or 12 foot long cables to the starter. Especially if you live in a cold climate.
How about VOLTAGE DROP. Lets see how you like starting the cars in WINTER when its below zero. I had a chattering starter when I used some #2 cables when I had the battery out. I wouldn't recommend 10 or 12 foot long cables to the starter. Especially if you live in a cold climate.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,896
Likes: 26
From: Manchester - Political correctness is tyranny with manners.
Originally Posted by bighank
Guess you folks like LONG THICK BATTERY CABLES running to your trunk.
How about VOLTAGE DROP. Lets see how you like starting the cars in WINTER when its below zero. I had a chattering starter when I used some #2 cables when I had the battery out. I wouldn't recommend 10 or 12 foot long cables to the starter. Especially if you live in a cold climate.
How about VOLTAGE DROP. Lets see how you like starting the cars in WINTER when its below zero. I had a chattering starter when I used some #2 cables when I had the battery out. I wouldn't recommend 10 or 12 foot long cables to the starter. Especially if you live in a cold climate.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 23,682
Likes: 9
From: Flagstaff Az.
Originally Posted by DidntSettle
Bighank is 'spot on' here. I guess my question is why would you want to do this? There are certainly no benifits as far as voltage is concerned because these cars already use all that is available. Why risk throwing codes or poor starter performance because your voltage is lower?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
It all depends on your cable size (both positive and negative should be the same size) and care in mounting the ground(s).
I've run 20 ft. of #00 aircraft spec cable from the trunk to the front and never had any issues of hard starting in northern AZ weather, either. I used either the frame as the ground or run a separate ground cable to the front and both worked equally well.
I also use high CCA batteries (OPTIMA) and maintain them on a float maintenance charger for the months of winter (BATTERY TENDER PLUS @ 1.25 amp).
I've run 20 ft. of #00 aircraft spec cable from the trunk to the front and never had any issues of hard starting in northern AZ weather, either. I used either the frame as the ground or run a separate ground cable to the front and both worked equally well.
I also use high CCA batteries (OPTIMA) and maintain them on a float maintenance charger for the months of winter (BATTERY TENDER PLUS @ 1.25 amp).
Last edited by hotwheels57; Nov 6, 2006 at 06:51 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,911
Likes: 1
From: Augusta GA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Originally Posted by bighank
Guess you folks like LONG THICK BATTERY CABLES running to your trunk.
How about VOLTAGE DROP. Lets see how you like starting the cars in WINTER when its below zero. I had a chattering starter when I used some #2 cables when I had the battery out. I wouldn't recommend 10 or 12 foot long cables to the starter. Especially if you live in a cold climate.
How about VOLTAGE DROP. Lets see how you like starting the cars in WINTER when its below zero. I had a chattering starter when I used some #2 cables when I had the battery out. I wouldn't recommend 10 or 12 foot long cables to the starter. Especially if you live in a cold climate.
The battery relocation mod is primarily done to move wieght from the front to the rear to help in drag racing and the launch. The reduction up front helps for a quicker transfer and a better launch. Anyone moving the battery to the rear will probably not be overly concerned about cold weather starts, as thier car proabaly does nt get much cold weather use as most track close when it gets realy chilly.
Back on the original post, you can find kits @ several sponsors on the let, like LPE and thunder racing. Good luck.
Dave
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,384
Likes: 8
From: Southwest Virginia
Originally Posted by DidntSettle
<snip> I guess my question is why would you want to do this? <snip>
I would prefer not to go that far back myself. I would like to keep the weight in front of the rear wheels, but there is just no place else to put it if your going to haul a passenger.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,627
Likes: 143
From: Goodyear Az
I don't think cold weather starts are going to be a concern for me in Vista, Ca. Today, November 6th, it was 92F at my house, and 85 at the coast
Just use thick, high quality cables for positive and negative and the run won't be an issue. The reason I'm doing it is for weight distribution. I'll be putting on a supercharger next month, and although I know this won't balance out the SC weight, it will help.
Just use thick, high quality cables for positive and negative and the run won't be an issue. The reason I'm doing it is for weight distribution. I'll be putting on a supercharger next month, and although I know this won't balance out the SC weight, it will help.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,228
Likes: 5
From: Gainesville Georgia
If It can be done which I'm sure It can, there would be some benefits from doing so. First you would transfer about 60 or so Lbs to the rear wheels which also would get you closer to 50/50 weight.Dist. 2nd, the battery would be more protected In the trunk & would never get wet or anything. I'm gonna read more Into this for my car. Best of luck
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 32,545
Likes: 2
From: Lithia FL
Cruise-In II & IV Veteran
CI VI Drag Champ!
Drag racers be aware if you relocate the battery to the rear NHRA and likely IHRA (don't have their rule book) requires an external on/off switch coming out the back of the car. So when you show up at the track if they make you open your hood you will be exposed
Pro
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 658
Likes: 4
From: North York Ontario
Originally Posted by nuke61
Has anyone out there considered doing it, or has actually gone through with it? The only spot that looks like it could be done is with the center depression near the rear bumper (some of you may have your 6-CD changer there) since its large enough.
The hardest part is attaching the battery to the frame as it is not directly underneath. You have to retain the existing heat shield.
I made the Al box for the battery
Instructor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
If you're relocating the battery to the back just for weight distribution and don't intend to use it at the dragstrip (NHRA), the small rear compartment on the passenger side works well.
If you plan to race, a covered housing is required with ventilation to the outside and a kill switch somewhere on the exterior of the rear panel, easily accessible by the crash crew, is mandatory. Lingenfelter has a complete kit for this application and I highly recommend it. It goes in the larger compartment in the rear. Quality, as with all their products, is outstanding.
If you plan to race, a covered housing is required with ventilation to the outside and a kill switch somewhere on the exterior of the rear panel, easily accessible by the crash crew, is mandatory. Lingenfelter has a complete kit for this application and I highly recommend it. It goes in the larger compartment in the rear. Quality, as with all their products, is outstanding.