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I manually raised my drivers side headlight to swap out the bulbs. After replacing the bulbs I turned on my lights to check to the operation. Then I turned off the lights and the drivers side headlight door that was manually raised closed oddly and is now operating strangely. (Yes I closed the door with the switch that was opened manually).
Now when I turn on the lights that door is starts slowly and is noticiably slower than the other door. When closing it again is slow and then it slams shut.
Now when I open and close that door manually it gets stiff and doesn't move normally. (Of course it slows) Keep cranking it when it's stiff and eventually jumps and then operates normally the rest of the way up.
This is a 2002. Did I mess up the plastic gears? If so, are the gears located inside of that small can looking unit? Please help Al
I have never understood why I would open them manually. I've always suspected it might cause a problem and this confirms my suspicion. The way I'll continue doing this is using the switch to turn them on then back it off to the parking lights setting which leaves the headlights in the open position.
Sounds like the gears are slightly off from meshing correctly. Hope it is an easy fix and appreciate the post on this subject.
I have never understood why I would open them manually.
You might have to open it manually if you are unable to open it any other way. I had a gear get chewed up so it would not open electrically or manually. Wound up applying a slight lifting pressure to the front of the light while turning the manual **** to also lift it until I hit the good gear teeth, then it worked for the rest of the lift.
I have never understood why I would open them manually. I've always suspected it might cause a problem and this confirms my suspicion. The way I'll continue doing this is using the switch to turn them on then back it off to the parking lights setting which leaves the headlights in the open position.
Sounds like the gears are slightly off from meshing correctly. Hope it is an easy fix and appreciate the post on this subject.
If you open it manually then you need to close it manually also, I think this person opened it manually then with it in the open position he cycled the switch which put that motor in a bind.
If you open it manually then you need to close it manually also, I think this person opened it manually then with it in the open position he cycled the switch which put that motor in a bind.
OUCH ! makes sense. That's why unless I absolutely had to as mentioned above I'd never turn them up manually.........
If you open it manually then you need to close it manually also, I think this person opened it manually then with it in the open position he cycled the switch which put that motor in a bind.
I can't understand this logic. Totally false.
Opening the headlight manually is basically the same as opening them electrically - the manual **** turns the same motor which spins the same gear so there is no possible damage in opening one way and closing the other. Also, the headlight control module determines when to cut power to the motor based on the increased current sensed when the motor arm hits a stop so even it the headlight was only partually open and then you closed them electrically there is no possibility of a problem.
So the problem here as some have already reported is the plastic gear has warn and starting to bind. You are feeling the worn area when you manually turn the gear, and the motor is having a hard time getting past this point. Due to the way the headlight control module works as I described above, it's possible that the motor will stop at that point and leave the door partially open. The best solution is to get the brass replacement gear.
When I manually turn the motor it gets stiff and upward motion slows. Keep turning the motor and it'll eventually "catch up". It'll literally open 1-1/2" in one turn. I'm going to open and inspect. I'll post as to what I find.
I have never had any problems with my lights prior to this. I am certain that it is associated with opening the lights manually and then opening and closing them with the switch.
Well upon inspection of the gears no teeth were broken. The only descrepancy I could find were about six of the gears were very lightly worn from the worm drive. I imagine that this is what was causing the slowness, jumpiness when opening and the door slamming when shutting.
I rotated the gear 180 degrees and everything is now prefect. I'm holding off on buying the brass gears for now. If they act up I'll replace them then.
Opening the headlight manually is basically the same as opening them electrically - the manual **** turns the same motor which spins the same gear so there is no possible damage in opening one way and closing the other. Also, the headlight control module determines when to cut power to the motor based on the increased current sensed when the motor arm hits a stop so even it the headlight was only partually open and then you closed them electrically there is no possibility of a problem.
So the problem here as some have already reported is the plastic gear has warn and starting to bind. You are feeling the worn area when you manually turn the gear, and the motor is having a hard time getting past this point. Due to the way the headlight control module works as I described above, it's possible that the motor will stop at that point and leave the door partially open. The best solution is to get the brass replacement gear.
Aschiftner, I'm glad you got it straightened out
JC if you think I'm wrong why don't you go out to your car and manually raise one or both of your lights and then turn the switch on, lets see what happens???
JC if you think I'm wrong why don't you go out to your car and manually raise one or both of your lights and then turn the switch on, lets see what happens???
Actually, I've done this several times when I've changed bulbs. Never had a problem. Of course, now I'm all paranoid about doing it in the future...