New Rotors= New Pads???
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,983
Likes: 6
From: Redondo Beach Ca
New Rotors= New Pads???
I put new brake pads on a few hundered miles ago and have now decided to upgrade my rotors. Do I need to replace the brake pads too? I once heard you should change the pads when getting new rotors. The pads are pretty new (300 miles), but maybe they need to be brand new? Please help!!! 
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,983
Likes: 6
From: Redondo Beach Ca
Originally Posted by RonVette2
I don't see any reason to change to new pads when the others only have 300 miles on them, and those pads are the ones that you wanted, thats my .02
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,228
Likes: 5
From: Gainesville Georgia
Your just supposed to take It easy for a 100 miles or so with the new pads, not new rotors. You don't have to change pads If you have new rotors...If they are the same size. I don't know about upgraded sized rotors though.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 24,652
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From: NJ
St. Jude Donor '05-'08
I would say you are going to be ok. You may want to bed the pads and rotors by doing a few slow downs from 40-20 and then a few from 60-40 and then let the car sit for 1/2 hour.
Even though it is not really necessary with stock pads I think bedding is a good habit to get into.
Here is a writeup from Hawk for racing pads - obviously you can skip the racing speed part of the bedding
:
Even though it is not really necessary with stock pads I think bedding is a good habit to get into.
Here is a writeup from Hawk for racing pads - obviously you can skip the racing speed part of the bedding
:
Originally Posted by Hawk Brake Pads
Q: Why should I perform a break-in procedure on new brake pads?
A: Correct brake pad break-in (bedding) is important to assure quality braking performance over the life of the pad. This procedure allows the rubbing surface of the brake pad to slowly be brought up to racing temperatures. Proper bedding creates a transfer layer film of friction material to be applied to the rotor surface. This allows the brake pad material to rub against itself rather than the bare rotor. This increases the stopping performance of the brake pad and can reduce pad and rotor wear.
Q: What is the proper procedure for braking in new brake pads?
A: Brake pad break-in procedure.
After reaching medium speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat four or five times.
At higher speeds engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat five times.
At or near race speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat three times. Allow a few seconds between brake engagements while car is in motion.
Do not hold brake pedal. Park car for approximately 20 minutes or until brake rotors are completely cool to the touch.
If during the above steps the brake pedal becomes soft or brake fade is noticed, park the car immediately for approximately 20 minutes. Do not hold brake pedal.
Important reminders:
Do not attempt to use badly worn or damaged rotors with new brake pads.
Do not drag brakes while car is moving during break-in procedure.
Do not engage pedal while car is stopped at any time following the break-in procedure.
Upon completing the procedure, allow the brake system to completely cool before racing.
Applying the pedal a few times before the start of the race will allow the brake pads to heat up before attempting to reach race speeds.
Clean a used rotor surface with fine sand paper or steel wool, rinse with water, dry and install before bedding new pads.
Some forms of racing don't allow time for the proper break-in procedure to be performed. However, it is still very important to attempt to perform at least the core of the procedure: slow heat build up and complete cool down.
Q: What can happen to my brake pads if not bedded properly?
A: Proper break-in will assure that small amounts of heat are introduced to the brake pad. Brake pads that are brought up to temperature too fast and not properly allowed to cool down may quickly become glazed and not perform as originally intended. The pads' rubbing surface reaches extreme heat levels during racing use. The surface needs slow temperature increases to help prepare the pad. Large amounts of heat all at one time can cause the brake pad rubbing surface to become somewhat liquefied and coat the pad surface with a glaze. This will dramatically reduce stopping performance as certain ingredients in the friction compound break down and cause glazing of the rubbing surface of the brake pad.
A: Correct brake pad break-in (bedding) is important to assure quality braking performance over the life of the pad. This procedure allows the rubbing surface of the brake pad to slowly be brought up to racing temperatures. Proper bedding creates a transfer layer film of friction material to be applied to the rotor surface. This allows the brake pad material to rub against itself rather than the bare rotor. This increases the stopping performance of the brake pad and can reduce pad and rotor wear.
Q: What is the proper procedure for braking in new brake pads?
A: Brake pad break-in procedure.
After reaching medium speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat four or five times.
At higher speeds engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat five times.
At or near race speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat three times. Allow a few seconds between brake engagements while car is in motion.
Do not hold brake pedal. Park car for approximately 20 minutes or until brake rotors are completely cool to the touch.
If during the above steps the brake pedal becomes soft or brake fade is noticed, park the car immediately for approximately 20 minutes. Do not hold brake pedal.
Important reminders:
Do not attempt to use badly worn or damaged rotors with new brake pads.
Do not drag brakes while car is moving during break-in procedure.
Do not engage pedal while car is stopped at any time following the break-in procedure.
Upon completing the procedure, allow the brake system to completely cool before racing.
Applying the pedal a few times before the start of the race will allow the brake pads to heat up before attempting to reach race speeds.
Clean a used rotor surface with fine sand paper or steel wool, rinse with water, dry and install before bedding new pads.
Some forms of racing don't allow time for the proper break-in procedure to be performed. However, it is still very important to attempt to perform at least the core of the procedure: slow heat build up and complete cool down.
Q: What can happen to my brake pads if not bedded properly?
A: Proper break-in will assure that small amounts of heat are introduced to the brake pad. Brake pads that are brought up to temperature too fast and not properly allowed to cool down may quickly become glazed and not perform as originally intended. The pads' rubbing surface reaches extreme heat levels during racing use. The surface needs slow temperature increases to help prepare the pad. Large amounts of heat all at one time can cause the brake pad rubbing surface to become somewhat liquefied and coat the pad surface with a glaze. This will dramatically reduce stopping performance as certain ingredients in the friction compound break down and cause glazing of the rubbing surface of the brake pad.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,983
Likes: 6
From: Redondo Beach Ca
Originally Posted by 528rwhp02Zo6
Your just supposed to take It easy for a 100 miles or so with the new pads, not new rotors. You don't have to change pads If you have new rotors...If they are the same size. I don't know about upgraded sized rotors though.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
Likes: 232
From: SoCal
Originally Posted by spiral04
I put new brake pads on a few hundered miles ago and have now decided to upgrade my rotors. Do I need to replace the brake pads too? I once heard you should change the pads when getting new rotors. The pads are pretty new (300 miles), but maybe they need to be brand new? Please help!!!
DH
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,983
Likes: 6
From: Redondo Beach Ca
Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
Your pads are brand new !!!!!!! No reason to replace them
DH
DH
Jason
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
Likes: 232
From: SoCal
Originally Posted by spiral04
Thanks! Can't wait to get my car finishedand back to enjoying it. I talked to you about your paint job a couple weeks back and was hoping to see it at the last valley gtg, but I guess you couldn't make it. Hopefully I'll make the next one Dec. 16th (I think?).
Jason
Jason
Did you see the pics in this thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1547029
DH
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,983
Likes: 6
From: Redondo Beach Ca
Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
for me that is.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by spiral04
The pics look great and other forum members have said you can't tell where it was painted. Glad it worked out so well for you. I'll be giving the shop a call when I'm ready (holidays too busy). Thanks for the recomendation!! Hopefully I'll check out your paint one day. We can compare spiral gray's with ccw's. I think that where the comparison ends though... for me that is.
for me that is.I didn't know you have CCW's........how about a pic
DH
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,228
Likes: 5
From: Gainesville Georgia
Originally Posted by spiral04
I am upgrading the rears to the larger 14" baer eradispeed rotors. I'll have to find ot about the pads. I'm using the ac delco ceramic pads for less dust on my ccw's. We'll see what happens...
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Originally Posted by spiral04
I am upgrading the rears to the larger 14" baer eradispeed rotors. I'll have to find ot about the pads. I'm using the ac delco ceramic pads for less dust on my ccw's. We'll see what happens...
The idea behind "breaking in" new semi-metallic pads is to transfer the pad material to the rotor face. This helps with increased friction betweenthe surfaces. Ceramics are harder so there is less transfer of the friction material. Ceramic pads need to get hot to work the best in comparison to the semi-metallics which typically have better cold bite because of that material transfer.
I have ceramic pads on my Baer Eradispeed 2-piece rotors and there is no noise or dust from them.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,983
Likes: 6
From: Redondo Beach Ca
Sounds good to me! I'm just waiting for the eradispeeds to get here so I can throw them on. Thanks for the good info on the brake pad differences.
I'm just waiting for the eradispeeds to get here so I can throw them on. Thanks for the good info on the brake pad differences.
Originally Posted by c4cruiser
You will be fine. Ceramic pads seem to work the best on drilled/slotted rotors. GM recommends the DuraStop ceramic pads with their drilled/slotte DuraStop rotors.
The idea behind "breaking in" new semi-metallic pads is to transfer the pad material to the rotor face. This helps with increased friction betweenthe surfaces. Ceramics are harder so there is less transfer of the friction material. Ceramic pads need to get hot to work the best in comparison to the semi-metallics which typically have better cold bite because of that material transfer.
I have ceramic pads on my Baer Eradispeed 2-piece rotors and there is no noise or dust from them.
The idea behind "breaking in" new semi-metallic pads is to transfer the pad material to the rotor face. This helps with increased friction betweenthe surfaces. Ceramics are harder so there is less transfer of the friction material. Ceramic pads need to get hot to work the best in comparison to the semi-metallics which typically have better cold bite because of that material transfer.
I have ceramic pads on my Baer Eradispeed 2-piece rotors and there is no noise or dust from them.
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,911
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From: Simi Valley CA
Spiral04- there was some posts a little while back about replacing pads. Several people warned against opening the old pad spacing w/o opening the bleed valve. Something about putting pressure backwards in the line. Anyway, I just did my pads this weekend. I put a "bleed" tube and bottle ($5 at napa) on the fitting and loosened it a little. As I opened the pad spacing, the brake fluid went up the tube (physically higher than the caliper). One opened up all the way, I locked the bleed fitting, put in the new pads, and put it all back together. No air can get in the line and no backwards pressure. Checked my reservoir and done. oh, btw, it's a 5/8 in wrench on the nut and 14mm on the bolt that holds the calipers (nut is round with two flat spots on it). At least on mine. Funky set-up.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,983
Likes: 6
From: Redondo Beach Ca
Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
Did you make sure the plus sized rear Erradispeeds will fit your wheels?
I had to drop down to the one piece when I got my CCW's
DH
I had to drop down to the one piece when I got my CCW's
DH
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
Likes: 232
From: SoCal
Originally Posted by spiral04
I was told by John at CCW that they'd fit with a spacer on my 19" SP16A's. He is sending me the rear two spacers. I hope they fit!
Mine are 18" in the back and there was no way........
DH
