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90 MM TB From Valvegod

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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 10:37 PM
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Default 90 MM TB From Valvegod

HAs anyone had a problem with the wiring of the TB form Shaun Valvegod?I followed everything to the T on how the instructions point out how to rewire the Pigtail to the LS1 harness.....well after having it checked by the Tech ...well the printout is WRONG. Which has cost me electrical problems and lord knows what else. Im having to pay the tech to come and fix whats wrong with it my cr is on constant reduced engine power and a cloud of smoke rose from the interior......Labor on a Vette ...expensive....Electrical labor on a Vette.....VERY expensive!
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 10:41 PM
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I have used probably 20 of them and not 1 issue with them.

Sometimes things are better left to professionals.

Phil
PS Nothing in the wiring to the TB is run into the interior!
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 10:45 PM
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Default Wiring

I have sold and installed over a hundred LS2 T body conversions in the last 2 years, and never had and issue, better recheck your wiring. I was worried when you were on the phone and sounded confused that maybe you shouldn't be wiring it yourself. Worse case if you grounded out the power feed to the PCM would be a blown fuse, nothing to the inside of the car. Most likely you are in reduced engine power because you need to recalibrate for the 90MM vs 75MM.


Shaun

Last edited by valvegod; Dec 8, 2006 at 11:30 PM.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 12:02 AM
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PMd you.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 01:23 AM
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I used a harness from LAPD. Plug and play.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by valvegod
I have sold and installed over a hundred LS2 T body conversions in the last 2 years, and never had and issue, better recheck your wiring. I was worried when you were on the phone and sounded confused that maybe you shouldn't be wiring it yourself. Worse case if you grounded out the power feed to the PCM would be a blown fuse, nothing to the inside of the car. Most likely you are in reduced engine power because you need to recalibrate for the 90MM vs 75MM.


Shaun
Shaun

I followed everything to the T on there and double checked it. One thing I noticed is where it says to connec wire A from the LS2 pigtail to my yellow wire on the first pin that makes the TB move is wrong it the flap in the TB just locks itself even more when I tested using the brown to the yellow after the blow up to see if it would go on WOT then it did. So those two wires are backwards on the sheet.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by RoadRebel
I have used probably 20 of them and not 1 issue with them.

Sometimes things are better left to professionals.

Phil
PS Nothing in the wiring to the TB is run into the interior!
I never ran anything in to the interior What happened is the TB locked itself instead of going WOT while I was starting the car and then I heard something pop inside the car and then came the smoke inside and outside the car it smelled like a wire had burned.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 09:25 AM
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It says nothing in the sheet about it recalibrating....how do I do that?
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by LsJuan25
I never ran anything in to the interior What happened is the TB locked itself instead of going WOT while I was starting the car and then I heard something pop inside the car and then came the smoke inside and outside the car it smelled like a wire had burned.
No wiring goes from the TB inside the Car. The PCM is not even inside the vehicle. The wiring is driven by the PCM and Tac Module which is located behind the pass tire.

Phil
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by LsJuan25
Shaun

I followed everything to the T on there and double checked it. One thing I noticed is where it says to connec wire A from the LS2 pigtail to my yellow wire on the first pin that makes the TB move is wrong it the flap in the TB just locks itself even more when I tested using the brown to the yellow after the blow up to see if it would go on WOT then it did. So those two wires are backwards on the sheet.
There is nothing wrong with the sheet/instruction. When properly wired and key up the throttle body does in fact, cycle in reverse till it stops, then moves to the commaned park position.

This is the info I posted years ago thats being used by shaun,casper and virtually everyone since then.

PIN ID LS2 90mm
A.) ACT2
B.) ACT1
C.) +5v TPS Reference – Common to both TPS’s
D.) TP1 Signal 0-5v
E.) Common Ground
F.) TP2 Signal 5-0v

98-04 Wiring hookup
A.) ACT 2 - Brown
B.) ACT 1 - Yellow
C.) +5 TPS Dk Green/Wht
D.) TP1 Signal – Dark Blue
E.) TPS GND – Purple
F.) TP2 Signal – Pink

You can compare these to what Shaun had sent. There will be 2 extra wires in your engine harness which is the redundant +5v and Gnd. Some tie them into primary but I recommend that most dont.

First thing that stands out is you wired it wrong from the get go, Pin A of the TB should be hooked to the BROWN wire. So I guess everything was NOT hooked up to a "T".

Second thing is ignore the color of the wiring of the pigtail that was sent, you must use the PIN ID.

The Pin ID listed is from the inside of the connector of the 90mm TB., Not the pigtail connector etc.

Phil

Last edited by RoadRebel; Dec 9, 2006 at 10:02 AM.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by LsJuan25
It says nothing in the sheet about it recalibrating....how do I do that?
I believe he is referencing the 1514 airflow code. That is not applicable to this issue if it throws the codes at idle/key on.

Most can throw the TB on without this being an issue.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by RoadRebel
There is nothing wrong with the sheet/instruction. When properly wired and key up the throttle body does in fact, cycle in reverse till it stops, then moves to the commaned park position.

This is the info I posted years ago thats being used by shaun,casper and virtually everyone since then.

PIN ID LS2 90mm
A.) ACT2
B.) ACT1
C.) +5v TPS Reference – Common to both TPS’s
D.) TP1 Signal 0-5v
E.) Common Ground
F.) TP2 Signal 5-0v

98-04 Wiring hookup
A.) ACT 2 - Brown
B.) ACT 1 - Yellow
C.) +5 TPS Dk Green/Wht
D.) TP1 Signal – Dark Blue
E.) TPS GND – Purple
F.) TP2 Signal – Pink

You can compare these to what Shaun had sent. There will be 2 extra wires in your engine harness which is the redundant +5v and Gnd. Some tie them into primary but I recommend that most dont.

First thing that stands out is you wired it wrong from the get go, Pin A of the TB should be hooked to the BROWN wire. So I guess everything was NOT hooked up to a "T".

Second thing is ignore the color of the wiring of the pigtail that was sent, you must use the PIN ID.

The Pin ID listed is from the inside of the connector of the 90mm TB., Not the pigtail connector etc.

Phil
Yes I noticed I put that on my post wrong but I did connect the Brown wire from the pigtail to the brown wire and yellow to the yellow as it says on the sheet. Yes your sheet is correct completely and thats what I followed .....EXCEPT for where I tied the two wires together as it says on the sheet having only one left out not two.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by LsJuan25
Yes I noticed I put that on my post wrong but I did connect the Brown wire from the pigtail to the brown wire and yellow to the yellow as it says on the sheet. Yes your sheet is correct completely and thats what I followed .....EXCEPT for where I tied the two wires together as it says on the sheet having only one left out not two.
Um..that may still be wrong not knowing the exact connector you have.
You have to Ignore the coloring on the wires and look that the Pin ID inside the TB connector.

Also, if you tied anywires together but still have extras left its probably may be still wired WRONG.

Phil

Last edited by RoadRebel; Dec 9, 2006 at 10:48 AM.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 10:40 AM
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I just went out there and checked everything AGAIN to this post and STILL when you hook Wire A from the Pigtail to the Brown wire the TB just wants to close....only when you hook wire A to the Yellow wire will it go at WOT. SO its not that I have done it wrong those directions are wrong I even went and took the other wire out as stated in your post. I should have got a plug to plug harness instead of messin with this I just did not know where to get one.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by RoadRebel
Um..that may still be wrong not knowing the exact connector you have.
You have to Ignore the coloring on the wires and look that the Pin ID inside the TB connector.

Also, if you tied anywires together but still have extras left its probably still wired WRONG.

Phil
I mentioned color but yes I followed the lettering inside both connectors its labeled on both. Plus the instructions do not mess with colors too bad. Its not rocket science and im not a complete idiot The problem came in with the brown to brown yellow to yellow which for some reaon does not open the WOT. Thnaks Phil I just followed the instructions which tell you to wire those two together.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by LsJuan25
I just went out there and checked everything AGAIN to this post and STILL when you hook Wire A from the Pigtail to the Brown wire the TB just wants to close....only when you hook wire A to the Yellow wire will it go at WOT. SO its not that I have done it wrong those directions are wrong I even went and took the other wire out as stated in your post. I should have got a plug to plug harness instead of messin with this I just did not know where to get one.
Its supposed to close when powered up, I made that statement right from the top.

Pin A on the TB is brown
Pin b on the TB is yellow.

I done have the sheet you have to look at, but if it matchs above it is correct.

As for the extra wire, he probably is tieing the 2 grouds together from the feeds. That would leave you with 1 extra wire, probably yellow with a black stripe.

Phil
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by RoadRebel
Its supposed to close when powered up, I made that statement right from the top.

Pin A on the TB is brown
Pin b on the TB is yellow.

I done have the sheet you have to look at, but if it matchs above it is correct.

As for the extra wire, he probably is tieing the 2 grouds together from the feeds. That would leave you with 1 extra wire, probably yellow with a black stripe.

Phil
Thanks Phil I just thought it was supposed to open but when I hit the throttle on brown to brown yellow to yellow it stays shut period. Im lost right now im just going to let the tech come down this week and fix everything. Im about to check the fuses right now and all the wires.
Oh and thanks for replying to this post you have been very helpful in this nightmare of mine.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by LsJuan25
Thanks Phil I just thought it was supposed to open but when I hit the throttle on brown to brown yellow to yellow it stays shut period. Im lost right now im just going to let the tech come down this week and fix everything. Im about to check the fuses right now and all the wires.
Oh and thanks for replying to this post you have been very helpful in this nightmare of mine.
First things first would be to get it wired up like its supposed to.

Check all your fuses etc now make sure they are OK.

Power the car up and clear the codes. Before you stop on the pedal check the code again. If any of the TPS code are thrown it will go into reduce power mode and not let the throttle move!

See what code is thrown and investigate it. If either one of the TPS sensors in the TB are bad or wired incorrectly it will do just as you describe. This is a drive by wire safety check to the vehicle doesn't go flying down the road and may be why it doesn't work like you think it should.

Again, wire it up as your supposed to, clear the code, power the ignition, do not hit the pedal and check again for codes first.

Phil
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 04:02 PM
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Default T body

Juan, As I mentioned on the phone the LS2 connector is referenced by letter location not color. This is done becasue several vehicles can use this connector and pigtail for an upgrade and all the LS1/LS6 vehicles are not color coded the same. If you wire to the sheet, it will work 100%. Yes, Road rebel figured out this pinout several years ago before it was even published by GM. So when you start slamming me on the forumn, you are also slamming Roadrebel.

I am not supplying a do it yourself step by step sheet on how to remove, replace the T body, and reprogram your car for all the mods you've done. I'm simply provie you a courtesy sheet to help buyers wire in their own T body. If you cannot figure it out your better off taking it to a qualify tech and pay his $80-$100 and hr shop rate.


Shaun
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 07:21 PM
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Ok Shaun Im not slamming you I asked if anyone had any problems with it. And YES your sheet is wrong because I just tried leaving out that one wire instead of getting both wires tied together and it helped which your instructions ONLY state to tie them together. If I really wanted to slam you I could mention that there were no bolts to come with my TB remember you forgot and told me it would cost you more to ship me the right bolts which I had to go get at home depot of all places. It was no big deal really but it would have been nice to have the right stuff. Not to mention the shipping I paid for never happened though not your fault and you did reimburse me the difference yes I could have slammed you for that too. But Im only trying to get some help with this and it seems your stuff does not come with a plug and play harness for the TB. I wish I would have known where to get the wire to just plug it in. Yes you might have had hundreds with no problem but this time there is my car and I have gone thru the paper and yes I noticed the lettering not the color.....remember I found this while we were on the phone. Im not saying you are not helpfull but soon enough I will have my wiring put together this week by a professional and he will let me know whats wrong with my car and if its wired right.
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