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After you get the wiring out of the way, but BEFORE you unbolt the intake manifold, use some compressed air (air gun) to blow out all the dirt that accumulates in the valleys where the intake manifold meets the heads. Otherwise when you pick up the manifold, the dirt will fall into your ports.
After you get the wiring out of the way, but BEFORE you unbolt the intake manifold, use some compressed air (air gun) to blow out all the dirt that accumulates in the valleys where the intake manifold meets the heads. Otherwise when you pick up the manifold, the dirt will fall into your ports.
I just did the LS1 to LS6 intake only swap a few weeks ago, the instructions were pretty good (LS1howto and the SLP ones). I vaccumed around the intake and heads before I started, in the middle of the job and when I had it off. I removed the green clips under the intake that held the knock sensor wires in place. I added about 3" of vacuum hose to the back MAP sensor and putting the intake on was very easy. I thought the hardest part really was figuring out how some of the clips came off on the TB and manifold.
Don't feel a SOP gain, nor did the VE change (was expecting a slight change in the VE tables). Runs fine with no codes so far. I got the intake new from SLP it came with the coolant plugs think it was $411 new (about $450 w/ shipping). Took me a morning to complete. I also sold the LS1 intake (a couple guys are buying them up on the Forum).
I have a baseline HP/ will get around to dynoing it and a ported TB in a few weeks.
Last edited by Beer99C5@FastbirdPerf.com; Dec 10, 2006 at 08:31 PM.
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by ATI Performance
After you get the wiring out of the way, but BEFORE you unbolt the intake manifold, use some compressed air (air gun) to blow out all the dirt that accumulates in the valleys where the intake manifold meets the heads. Otherwise when you pick up the manifold, the dirt will fall into your ports.
Bob
And immediately after you pull the intake off, CAREFULLY tape the intake ports up, and then clean the dirt that will have collected on top of the head bolts. Mine was a real mess with enough sand to make a sand box (my car came from FL).
Also, as someone else pointed out, remove the green clips from the knock sensor wires.
Also, now would be a good time to do the LS6 valley cover mod.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by JR_VETTE
...............Also, now would be a good time to do the LS6 valley cover mod.
If you do decide to do this, then you'll have some Dremeling to do on your engine block in order to remove a piece of casting. Otherwise the Z06 valley cover will not fit on your '99. Not difficult, just tedious.
HTH,
Robert
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by DBLX
Ditto, what is this mod, and what does it accomplish?
It allows you to bolt up a Z06 valley plate (with the Z06 style pcv connection) and convert to the later style pcv set-up. All of the hoses running from the driver's side valve cover and the passenger side valve cover to the original LS1 pcv set-up can be eliminated. All the Z06 engines and all the later LS1 engines have this set-up. Depending on the year of your engine, there is a small unused casting area underneath the original valley cover that must be removed in order for the Z06 style valley cover to bolt down without interferrence. I don't recall right offhand, but I think it's the '97 thru '01s LS1s that are involved with this, since all the later year LS1s came with this style pcv from the factory.
HTH,
Robert