LSX Long block
LSX block and ????? Would be a bolt (minus tuning) in for 2001 A4 3.90 gears, Displacement around 450 - 480, not maxed out in bore. Durability is paramont (100,000 mile engine). Driven daily. LG long tube headers installed already w/ Random matrix Cats, Price point ??? What would be needed for this monster?





I am waiting for this motor to and will probably go with 482 cubes which will be made with a perfectly square motor with 4.25 bore and store. There will be nice big affordable power making heads coming out for this motor also in the near future and will probably be an offshot of the L92 alum truck GM heads that are similar in style to LS7 heads or LS7 heads, and when CNC and polished and worked over by a pro will make BIG POWER and price should be affordable.
Problem is this will all be coming together in 2007 and will be a stocking stuffer for next CHRISTMAS 2007 and too premature for this year!!
My goal is a nice streetable 482 LSX GM MOTOR making about 650 to the wheels, on pump gas running about 11:25 to 1 compression on 93 octane!!
Happy Holidays, its a GREAT TIME to be a GM LS1/2/6/7/X GEARHEAD!!
Last edited by fsuforever; Dec 24, 2006 at 05:45 PM. Reason: lack of wording

Q
i know if i had the xtra money this is the route i would take New 600 +RWHP 433 Stroker LS7 GM Block 6,195 a sweeeeeeeet deal .http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS7-6...65541683QQrdZ1
Last edited by blkvett01; Dec 24, 2006 at 06:42 PM. Reason: read something else
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts





Yes you are, the GM racing 427 cubed C5R Racing motor is over $6,000 for the bare block and a bare LS7 block (the same block that powers the new C6 Z06) is WAY CHEAPER than a C5R GM Racing Performance block!!
Well after reading this response I did a little research and found the 6K+ block from GM is indeed the racing version block, but I could find no information on a LS7/Z06 production block being available at this time. SDPC show a Warhawk after market aluminum block in the 3.5K range, but not a GM production large displacement block. So the question remains, what block is being used for this buildup?





Here is the website for A TON of high performance info and research on LS7/LS2 and the new GM LSX ironblock coming out in March capable of 511 cubes and being offered from GM PERF Parts and of course the aftermarket big block Warhawk block you reference. This website will give you all the high performance info you will ever need regarding the type of questions you have and is a HUGE WEALTH of information:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=80
Here is a perfect example of what I am talking about I just went to this website and within 15 seconds for all this info on the part numbers for the LS7 bare block and any other GM part assocciated with the LS7 427 motor that powers the C6 Z06
LS7 bare block = 12571246 or 17802854
LS7 crate motor = 17802397
LS7 500hp smallblock = 12578105
LS7 camshaft = 12571251
LS7 cylinder head (bare, without valves) = 12578450
LS7 titanium connecting rod = 12586258
LS7 intake valve = 12591644
LS7 exhuast valve = 12578455
LS7 intake rocker arm = 12579615
LS7 exhaust rocker arm = 12579617
LS7 rocker bolt (m8x1.25x34) = 11588791
LS7 pushrod = 12593344
LSx lifter = 17122490
LS7 valve spring = 12578457
LS7 intake valve lash cap = 12596509
LS2/LS7 valley cover = 12570471
LS7 fuel rail = 12569124
LS7 fuel injector = 12576341
LS7 intake manifold = 12569011
LS7 90mm throttle body (same as LS2) = 12570790
LS7 front cover = 12593546
LS7 crankshaft = 12568820
LS7 clutch and pressure plate kit = 24233650
LS7 engine oil tank = 12603281
LS7 oil pan = 12596689
LS7 oil pump = 12598212
LS7 auxiliary engine oil tank hose = 15210117
LS7 auxiliary engine oil tank hose = 15210122
LS7 dry sump tank = 12603281
LS7 outlet and inlet cooling line = 15210122
LS7 outlet oil line = 15210117
LS7 engine cover ('sight shield'), LH = 12574619
LS7 engine cover ('sight shield'), RH = 12574620
LS2/LS7 spark plug wires = 89018058
EVEN MORE GREAT INFO FOR YOU FROM THIS SITE IS WHERE YOU CAN GET A COMPETE LS7 SHORTBLOCK BUILT FOR YOUR CAR FOR LESS THAN $5,600, now that is FREAKIN TEMPTING!

LS7 427 Short Blocks In Stock @ SDPC
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Ok, we finally have them done. I have 3 of the LS7 wet sump style 427 short blocks in stock. Each one includes:
LS7 block 4.127 bore
Eagle 4.00" stroke 4340 steel crank
Scat 6.125" "H" beam rods with 7/16 rod bolts
Manley 4.127" bore 2618 material forged pistons with -14cc reverse dome
Total Seal brand file fit rings for N/A applications
Clevite "H" series bearings
LS2 billet double roller timing set
LS7 timing chain dampener
LS2 timing chain cover with cam sensor
LS2 valley cover
SDLS7SB427D $5513.95
For blown/nos rings add $100.00
__________________
Brian Gruben
Scoggin Dickey Parts Center
“The Largest LS-Engine Warehouse in the USA”
(800) 456-0211 ext 354
or
(806) 798-4000 ext 354
Last edited by Mopar Jimmy; Dec 27, 2006 at 01:27 PM.
LSX block and ????? Would be a bolt (minus tuning) in for 2001 A4 3.90 gears, Displacement around 450 - 480, not maxed out in bore. Durability is paramont (100,000 mile engine). Driven daily. LG long tube headers installed already w/ Random matrix Cats, Price point ??? What would be needed for this monster?

Lots of good info in the replies so far. I'm looking into a similar setup, so here's some thoughts.
If you're willing to wait most of a year and willing to take the weight penalty of an iron block, then by all means go with the new LSX "bowtie" iron block from GMPP. Yes, I know the blocks are supposed to be out sooner but:
a) This stuff is always late
b) Let someone else bleed on that edge, especially since:
c) You want a 100k mile motor for a daily driver
Don't worry too much about "affordable heads". This is going to be at least a $8-12k project no matter how you do it, without even getting into drivetrain upgrades. The difference between premium heads and affordable heads is 1-1.5k. For a project like this don't sweat it, get the ones you want/need.
Are you dead set on 450+? The thing is, you can do that motor today, in aluminum, at 402-427 CID. For a race car in class racing, or for ultimate dyno bragging rights, yeah, you need that last 30-50 cubes. For a 100k-mile street car on street tires? You'll never notice the difference, and I wouldn't give up the money or reliability or weight that going bigger is going to require.
The thing is, all the combos bigger than 427 are either unproven (LSX/Warhawk), may have trouble fitting (LSX/Warhawk tall deck), use marginal strokes for 100k+ miles (anything over 4" on a stock 9.240" deck block), or push towards the thin side of liner thickness.
Yes, you can squeeze in a bit here or there by going to a MID-sleeved block, boring an iron 408 block quite a ways, going for a 4.1 stroke, etc., but those things are generally only getting you 5 or 10 inches at a time. Not worth the hassle, expense, and possible durability implications for a 100k+ motor, imo.
Right now, today, and for the mid-term future, it looks like the sweet deal is a 4" stroke aluminum 427, built on either a wet-sump LS7 block or a sleeved LS1/2 block, either at 4.125 bore. These are proven, conservative packages that stand good odds of meeting your goals. I would regard larger/more radical packages as being decidedly less suitable.
Either one will run you $8-10k on a pallet, with appropriate heads and cam. Consider another $12-1500 for a ported FAST 90/90 setup. Headers you can keep, although for a 427 1 7/8 would probably be better.
Realistically, either one should make a conservative 500+ rwhp and almost that much torque, using a pretty mild cam. It would pretty much boil street tires at will. For those rare occasions where "closed course" activity at higher speeds could make use of a bit more, add a 100-150 N2O shot. Now you're up in solid FI territory without the hassle of running a FI package, no meth, no race gas, no belt throwing, no snails cooking nearby parts, just a big engine loafing.
For a 100k-mile daily driver, don't get greedy. Leave some laying on the table. That last 10% of power can eat up 90% of your reliability.
The above is my current plan anyways, although we'll see what's up by the time I get my money up. Drivetrain first. Maybe late next year.
Last edited by Gannet; Dec 28, 2006 at 02:47 PM.





I agree a manufacture can have a "fluke" from time to time.
EDIT: The engine issues have been resolved. SDPC reimbursed me last week for the engine rebuild.
Last edited by Bluewasp; Jan 17, 2007 at 07:46 PM.

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