C5 Climate Control dim/dark display fix
05-25-2011, 02:07 PM
#322
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Location: Central Coast Ca
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Interior Bulbs
I see many people using the 7219 bulbs for the illumination lights on the HVAC controls but they are much smaller(T-1) than the stock (T-1.25)ones. The life on the 7219 is great, 10000 hrs, the 8640 is the same size(T-1.25) as stock with a .08 amp rating but only 2500 hrs. These should be the right size for the various twist lock interior illumination locations. The IPC on my 2001 uses type 74 bulbs. Check Mouser, Digikey or Allied for best price.
05-27-2011, 05:08 PM
#323
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ron, how do i find this guy on ebay?
I just bought a rebuilt control from a guy on eBay for $99.00. This thing looks and works like new. The best part is that he ships the new one BEFORE you send him the old one (NO down time!!). He charges a $100.00 core charge to your credit card if he doesn't get the old one back in 30 days (Seems fair). He also pays the shipping to get the new one to you if you call him directly with a credit card number. He's been on eBay for quite some time with an excellent feedback rating. My son could not be happier. It only took us about 20 minutes to change it out and re-package the old one to send back.
We had read about the fix shown here, but didn't want to chance screwing it up on our own. We feel this is the best $99.00 we've spent, so far. All of the pushbuttons and the display look just like new for half the cost of a new unit.
I don't work for this guy and haven't included his name on purpose. I just think he does some great work and made our problem go away quite easily.
We had read about the fix shown here, but didn't want to chance screwing it up on our own. We feel this is the best $99.00 we've spent, so far. All of the pushbuttons and the display look just like new for half the cost of a new unit.
I don't work for this guy and haven't included his name on purpose. I just think he does some great work and made our problem go away quite easily.
06-19-2011, 10:36 PM
#325
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This worked for me
I just completed this repair and wanted to share some info. I have the second variation with 8 241 SMD in the center. They are in parallel an the outside of each resistor is connected to each other, and same for inside.
By using a meter, I touched an outside resistor between the board and the resistor, then touch the top of the remaining resistors lightly with the probe to ensure each read zero ohms. If you had an area fluctuate then press harder with the probe and see if it goes to zero ohms. If so that is a bad joint.
Then go to the inside and test each joint in the same manner.
Turns out I had two bad joints and resoldered them. I did not use additional solder, instead, I pressed the resistor down with a tool, and then applied the solder iron for a short period to resolder the joint. Seems to have worked fine, with no distortion to the board lacquer.
I think the board flexs too much and the solder joints are not as good as most of the other components on the board.
My unit would work early when car was cooler, and not work when hot.
Great thread! G
By using a meter, I touched an outside resistor between the board and the resistor, then touch the top of the remaining resistors lightly with the probe to ensure each read zero ohms. If you had an area fluctuate then press harder with the probe and see if it goes to zero ohms. If so that is a bad joint.
Then go to the inside and test each joint in the same manner.
Turns out I had two bad joints and resoldered them. I did not use additional solder, instead, I pressed the resistor down with a tool, and then applied the solder iron for a short period to resolder the joint. Seems to have worked fine, with no distortion to the board lacquer.
I think the board flexs too much and the solder joints are not as good as most of the other components on the board.
My unit would work early when car was cooler, and not work when hot.
Great thread! G
Last edited by NWtracker; 06-19-2011 at 10:40 PM.
07-02-2011, 02:31 PM
#326
Le Mans Master
thanks for the help.....
glad people take the time to make threads like these....
i replaced all 14 incandescent bulbs in my hvac control board, and everything is wworking again!!
glad people take the time to make threads like these....
i replaced all 14 incandescent bulbs in my hvac control board, and everything is wworking again!!
07-03-2011, 11:43 AM
#327
Burning Brakes
First, a big thanks to all that have posted in the threads to repair the climate control head unit. You guys rock. I have found many threads here to help me fix issues.
Second, this is a double post. I could not find this thread, and started a new one. I will try and delete that thread
When I bought my '99 'vert a couple of months ago the climate control lights were dead, and now I have repaired (?) it so it at least lights up.
When I first took it apart, I gently hit each of the 241 units with a bit of heat to solder the joints. It seemed to work but then began to fade in an out. The external temp was always reading 10-30 degrees low, but the AC would work.
I again removed the head unit and was a bit more aggressive (yikes) in my soldering. I even had to reposition one of the 241's because it came loose.
When I reinstalled the outside temp shows as 32 f and the AC will not engage, even though the actual outside temp is 85 f. The rest of the unit appears to be working properly.
I took the outside sensor off and cleaned the contacts. With the sensor unhooked the head unit still shows 32 f and with it installed after cleaning the contacts it still shows 32 f. Is this the default when the sensor is out or not plugged in?
Question is, have I screwed up the control unit with my less than wonderful soldering skills, or do I just have a bad outside temperature sensor?
And a happy 4th to all.
Second, this is a double post. I could not find this thread, and started a new one. I will try and delete that thread
When I bought my '99 'vert a couple of months ago the climate control lights were dead, and now I have repaired (?) it so it at least lights up.
When I first took it apart, I gently hit each of the 241 units with a bit of heat to solder the joints. It seemed to work but then began to fade in an out. The external temp was always reading 10-30 degrees low, but the AC would work.
I again removed the head unit and was a bit more aggressive (yikes) in my soldering. I even had to reposition one of the 241's because it came loose.
When I reinstalled the outside temp shows as 32 f and the AC will not engage, even though the actual outside temp is 85 f. The rest of the unit appears to be working properly.
I took the outside sensor off and cleaned the contacts. With the sensor unhooked the head unit still shows 32 f and with it installed after cleaning the contacts it still shows 32 f. Is this the default when the sensor is out or not plugged in?
Question is, have I screwed up the control unit with my less than wonderful soldering skills, or do I just have a bad outside temperature sensor?
And a happy 4th to all.
07-10-2011, 04:30 PM
#328
Racer
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Thanks again!
Thanks to everyone here who has contributed to this thread. I am continually amazed at the knowledge and skill possessed by the members of this forum. I just finished putting my HVAC controller back together and reinstalled it in the car. It works like new again. I followed the instructions to the letter, to include buying a new soldering iron and a spool of the recommended solder. I’ve done very little soldering in the past, but pulled this off without a hitch.
I have had the dim lights in the display since I bought the car a year and a half ago. I'm sure the previous owner had this issue and must have struggled with the dim lights as well. I didn't realize how bad they were until some months after the purchase. I just drove the car to Bloomington Gold a couple of weeks ago, about 2400 miles round trip, and the dim lights were quite a nuisance. I decided about two days into the trip that I would look into getting this problem cured when I returned home. I searched the forum for possible remedies and came across this thread. I really hadn't planned to fix this myself, but after reading through this thread I figured I probably could give it a try. This was actually one of the easiest repairs I've done to the car in a while, only because of the instructions contained here. Again, thanks to all who have contributed to this thread, great work!
I have had the dim lights in the display since I bought the car a year and a half ago. I'm sure the previous owner had this issue and must have struggled with the dim lights as well. I didn't realize how bad they were until some months after the purchase. I just drove the car to Bloomington Gold a couple of weeks ago, about 2400 miles round trip, and the dim lights were quite a nuisance. I decided about two days into the trip that I would look into getting this problem cured when I returned home. I searched the forum for possible remedies and came across this thread. I really hadn't planned to fix this myself, but after reading through this thread I figured I probably could give it a try. This was actually one of the easiest repairs I've done to the car in a while, only because of the instructions contained here. Again, thanks to all who have contributed to this thread, great work!
07-17-2011, 10:46 PM
#329
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Another THANK YOU to all who took the time to post such great advice, pictures and instructions on this thread. I just soldered my controller and it works like new! It really was an easy fix. CF Rocks.
I did mine today..another satisfied member!
07-22-2011, 04:07 PM
#331
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To all those who contributed.....especially GENOCID.......thank you!
I recently completed the dark/dim repair..along with all new faceplate bulbs, and the information in GENOCID's thread was priceless.
My dual climate control now works (I ASSUME) better than new.......thanks again to all.
Bob
I recently completed the dark/dim repair..along with all new faceplate bulbs, and the information in GENOCID's thread was priceless.
My dual climate control now works (I ASSUME) better than new.......thanks again to all.
Bob
07-22-2011, 09:37 PM
#332
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Use a dab of super glue to the sides of the resistors to hold them in place on the board. This will prevent them from wandering around while the solder is hot. Also, clean the area around the solder connection with a little rubbing alcohol before applying any heat.
07-23-2011, 08:05 PM
#333
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A great fix
Did mine today and it worked like a charm. THANKS
I used an awl in my left hand to hold in place and then just laid iron on each side til I saw it melt.
I used an awl in my left hand to hold in place and then just laid iron on each side til I saw it melt.
07-24-2011, 01:10 PM
#334
3rd Gear
hvac solder
i just did it , taking my time took a total of 15 mins
just make sure you hold the "241" guys down with a pair on needle nose pliers = small ones and poof there is the display!! this fourm rocks!!!!
now i can have a beer
just make sure you hold the "241" guys down with a pair on needle nose pliers = small ones and poof there is the display!! this fourm rocks!!!!
now i can have a beer
09-30-2011, 03:33 AM
#338
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Finally fixed my 99's dim display. I had the bezel off already for stereo installation and figured I would sidetrack a little and give this a go. I used a slightly moistened cotton swab to hold down the resistors to act as a heat sink and keep them from moving around while the solder was hot.
When I reinstalled it, the display was back to full brightness, but it was going a little berzerk. Sometimes unresponsive and randomly changing modes. Disconnected my battery for a while, reconnected, and that solved the funky-chicken gremlins, but then it was blowing cold on the passenger side and kinda hot on the driver side. I pulled the HVAC control unit again and reseated the wiring harness connector which finally got it back to normal.
Thanks to the guys who put this up. I probably would not have ventured into it otherwise.
When I reinstalled it, the display was back to full brightness, but it was going a little berzerk. Sometimes unresponsive and randomly changing modes. Disconnected my battery for a while, reconnected, and that solved the funky-chicken gremlins, but then it was blowing cold on the passenger side and kinda hot on the driver side. I pulled the HVAC control unit again and reseated the wiring harness connector which finally got it back to normal.
Thanks to the guys who put this up. I probably would not have ventured into it otherwise.
10-17-2011, 01:16 PM
#340
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This is a great forum! I just bought a 2001 C-5 and the HVAC lights were all out. Was quoted $102.50 for a used one. I resoldered all eight of my resistors and works like new. Also replaced emergency flasher at the same time because turn signals worked intermittantly-had to apply pressure to flasher to get signals to work. Found this fix elswhere in this forum. Pictures and instructions made it an easy fix.