spider94r

I just checked your pictures and my hole is in exactly the same location, but rectangular, about 3x4 inches. The PCV hose is there, along with a wiring harness in a plastic loom. My dremel actually did cut into the plastic loom but luckily didn't hit any wires inside, and I was very mindful not to cut any deeper than needed to get through the panel. Tried pushing on the PCV and the harness and quickly determined that the pain-in-*** factor of this method was going to be just as high as removing the manifold, which would also give me the chance to do a lot of cleaning up around the manifold and behind it. I could have made the hole bigger but then patching the panel would have been more sloppy, so I bagged it and sounded the retreat.

I know it sounds like I'm a total n00b but I have done plenty of mechanical work on this and other cars. I just didn't want to cut any more than I already did and I'm VERY glad I didn't end up doing some irreversible damage to the wiring harness.

Thanks for the feedback!

thevetteman_atlanta

Looks to me like the idea of cutting an access hole under the wipers ease the installation of the factory sending unit is the easyest way to do it. Giong to try that and I'll let ya all know the outcome.

gdarwin

That's the way I did it. No problem getting the job done.

Nyvetteguy007

Best way to do it IMHO....

gr86ss

I've done the cutting method, and also recently removed the intake to replace the knock sensors. The cutting method is pretty quick, but there is limited hand access for getting to the oil sensor.

Removing of the intake takes no more than about 1/2 hr, and enables much better access for the oil sensor. It's cleaning up of all the gunk under the manifold, if the manifold had never been off, is what takes a bit of time. The only real specialty tool needed for intake r/r is a torque wrench that measures in in/lbs.

If I would've been more brave when first doing the oil sensor, I would've found that removing the intake isn't a big deal. If you do go the intake removal out and your vette has some miles on it, it would be wise to go ahead and replace the knock sensors since you already have it off. Since I had mine off, I went ahead and upgraded to an LS6 intake manifold..

Nyvetteguy007

Definite limited access...I had to grind down the socket to be able to get the sensor off....

white90conv

I have a oil pressure switch socket and I did not have to grind the socket to get the sensor off. For me, the biggest problem was removing the electrical connector. After cutting the hole, R&R was less than 1/2 hour. And there is much less risk of getting something wrong than removing the intake manifold.

okie98

For fittings to do a relocation of the stock sender try:

http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index...p=&dept=Metric

They have both 16 x 1.5 male and female to AN fittings.

thevetteman_atlanta

HEY HEY HEY! I did the hole cutting thing and it was so easy. I used a dremmel tool for some and a hack saw for the rest. When I replace the sender I reinstalled the peice I cut out by riviting on 4 tabs to it an bondoed the cracks, a touch of paint and you really can't tell it was cut. watch out not to cut the wires to the sender that come from the drivers sid of the motor. Thanks for the idea!

RED95CONVLUVER

I also did the hole cutting method of changing bad oil pressure sensor. Yes be careful of the wrapped wires. I cut my square hole a little more to the rear to get behind the hose that runs by there. This does take a little time but has to be easier than removing the intake.

NOLAVette

My 2001 did the 80/130 thing this morning-Scared the hell out of me at first. Then I figured 0/0 would be a lot scarier. So I took it very easy driving home with one eye on the road and the other on the temp gauge.
After reading about 300 posts on this sending unit problem and the inferior replacement parts situation, I'm convinced it's the higher than normal C5 engine temps that is the culprit. Our engines operate between 192 and 240 degrees most of the time. Other cars max out at about 190 for the most part. The Mexicans manufacturing these sensors are not taking into account the C5's higher operating temperature. The pressure membrane and/or oil seal cannot handle the heat.
This is what I'm thinking about now.

BTW-I'm also dealing with the "Column Lock" crapola right now too!!!

zx-12r

What size socket do you need to get the sensor out through the cut hole method?

brookman

I took some pictures with a tape measure. This worked awesome. I had to buy the $6 socket from autozone.

I had to hold the PCV tube out of the way but other than that it worked great.

http://www.brookins.us/2000%20corvet...soraccesshole/

white90conv

A 1 1/16 " socket will fit. It will probably have to be a deep socket to clear the connector. However, I think one should use a special pressure sender socket (from an auto store). That is what I used and I was very careful not to over tighten the unit. If you look at the sender, it is not exactly a hex nut shape - the corners are rounded off. Attached is a picture showing how the special socket fits the sender. I should also note, the special socket is smaller in diameter 0.360 " vs 0.393 " for my Craftsman 1 1/16 socket. I did not have to grind the socket but some people did to get their socket to fit in.

craig04c5

Great pics of the location of the 2"x2" hole Brookman! Now that you posted this if/when it happens to me I will go this route rather than try to take the intake off. Thank you.

brookman

no problem - I am so happy to be able to give back. This board has a lot of awesome members.

white top

Thanks for the pixs & measurements. Can't see the oil sensor did you have enough room, was 2" square adequate, how did you close the hole.

Jerry

brookman

actually the hole was perfect. If you look closely you will see that I had to round out the front just a little bit to make sure the socket was perfectly vertical.

to close the hole I ended up using black duct tape on both sides.

the sendor is directly under that hose. I had to hold it forward out of the way when I removed and installed the sensor.

vetter79

Will the buick brass sensor directly replace the oem one and if so, anyone have part # for them?
thanks guys!!

426 Hemi

It's not a direct replacement, you'll have to stack a couple adapters.

First adapter: PN ATM-2268 1/8 NPT female x M16 X 1.5 male http://www.egauges.com/vdo_acce.asp?...pters&Manf=All

Second adapter: 1/4" to 1/8" brass fitting. Napa # 3200x4x2 (SAE# 130139)

And of course the Buick sensor: GM part # 12584940

Basically it's going to be this:



Then this:



Then this: