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Installing Kooks - Need Help

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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 09:46 PM
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Default Installing Kooks - Need Help

Okay, I am in the middle of installing a set of Kooks long tube headers with the 3" high flow cats, x-pipe, etc. Problem is the headers will not fit in the car. I have removed the altenator and bracket, power steering pump/bracket, oil filter, oil temperature switch, both motor mount bolts, pulled the steering shaft, jacked up the engine as high as it will go and the header hangs up at the collector against the oil filter mount.

Any ideas would be appreciated.
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 11:37 PM
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Have you contacted the vendor you bought them from?
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 01:57 AM
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Default kooks install

I pried my engine over with a 2X4 to get past that point, it was the only way I got my headers to slip in. it takes patience and constant moving of the header and it will fall in when least expected !
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 02:08 AM
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with the engine mount loose, take a 2x4 and pry the engine over and it will go in...Its a pain in the ***, but they will go..You did not need to remove the altenator and bracket, power steering pump/bracket..With the altenator bracket in place, I pry on it by sliding the 2x4 between the altenator bracket and the frame rail and they pry the engine over from that point...
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 02:15 AM
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Well, since your removing everything, you might as well remove the wheels, brakes, steering wheel, passenger seat, gas filler door, rear tail lights, and ash tray..
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 08:55 AM
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I was considering pulling the engine next

I'll put the alternator bracket back on and try prying the engine. What a PITA, these headers better be worth it.
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by chriswtx
with the engine mount loose, take a 2x4 and pry the engine over and it will go in...Its a pain in the ***, but they will go..You did not need to remove the altenator and bracket, power steering pump/bracket..With the altenator bracket in place, I pry on it by sliding the 2x4 between the altenator bracket and the frame rail and they pry the engine over from that point...

Exactly , a quick bump with the 2x4 and the other person can drop the header right in
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 09:43 AM
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Steve,

Should I jack up the engine as before or just try prying up with the 2x4 while the engine sits flat?
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve@CTCorvette
Exactly , a quick bump with the 2x4 and the other person can drop the header right in
Originally Posted by jeanlucpicard
Steve,

Should I jack up the engine as before or just try prying up with the 2x4 while the engine sits flat?
read post #4, Chris has got it covered
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 09:56 AM
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We jacked up the engine one side at a time to drop the headers in.

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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 09:59 AM
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Are you going in from the top or bottom? I just installed some LG streets and they both went in like butter from the top. All I removed was the valve covers, alternator and steering shaft.
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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I just completed installing my MTI Stage II heads / cam package and during the Dyno I only got 379RWHP due to intake and exhaust restrictions. I removed my 1-3/4" primaries SLP headers and went with the Kooks setup advised by MTI. The SLP headers went in a lot easier.

I have jacked up on one side - driver side - just like Patches photo shows and the collector hits the oil filter mount on the engine - a lot of scuffing down there now and the 1-7/8" primaries hit the engine head as there is not enough room for the header. I have not tried the 2x4 route yet but am game for just about anything at this point.

I am installing the headers from the top. I see no way short of dropping thte oil pan to install from the botom.

I have jacked up on the driver side to where the entire car comes off the jack stands and I still do not have enough room for the driver side header to slide in.

Last edited by jeanlucpicard; Jan 14, 2007 at 10:34 AM.
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 11:25 AM
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Default Kooks are Tough...

Larry,
Ive installed two sets of Kooks 1 3/4 and it took the better part of a Saturday each time . The advice given so far sounds right. I unbolted the engine mounts per the instructions, placed a jack underneath at the side of the oil pan I was working on to lift, and used a 2x4 to push the engine over more. On the passenger side I had to unbolt the 4 ac compresser bolts and move it away from the block for more room. Then the passenger header went in easily without unbolting the starter (as I recall, but I am over 40 so my mind is getting weaker )
Kooks are a great Header though, and they woke up my cam-only LS1 engine over the B&B shorty's big time. Went from 368 to 398 RWHP just from the change to Kooks header/high flow cats.....yes thats 30 RWHP.

Good luck with the install, and you have a PM
Stan
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 12:43 PM
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You need to remove the valve cover as well. The 1 7/8" are the toughest to get in, but they will go. Have someone prying with the 2x4 while you get them in. When you jack up the driverside have the passanger side engine mount bolt on a little so the engine doesn't jack up straight buy at an angle then pry the engine over some more with the 2x4...They both go in from the top...
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 12:56 PM
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I removed the drivers side engine mount as well. It seemed to help, and wasnt too hard to get back in the car after the headers were in the car.
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