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I was talking to John about my set-up options. I was told that most of his
rims sold ended up with a total wheel height of 25 1/2 inches in the rear, about 1 inch lower than stock. I asked if you needed to reprogram the computer since you are running a effective ratio higher than stock. He said yes.
I dont care if the speedo is off xxx%. If the car doesnt throw codes, I dont want to get the computer reprogrammed (again).
My car doesnt have active handling,
and its a 6 speed.
I have the CCW wheels on my car. I have the 285/30/18 tires with 10" fronts... 335/30/18 on 11.5" wheels on the rear. The T&W setup is just a hair over 1.2" outside diameter difference from OEM. I do not throw Codes with this setup. It is my understanding that the Wheel Speed Sensors will not throw a code unless you surpass a 9mph wheel speed variation from front to rear. My setup at any time only does a 2-3 mph wheel speed variation.
You will be safe going with new tires and wheels front and rear on your car as long as you stick as close as you can to the 1" OEM variation of the C5.
I have 18" all around and I have 345/35's on the rear and 275/35's on the front. When I was originally making my choice I bought one 335 tire to see how it looked (dealer would accept returns). What I did not like about the 335's was the gap between the top of the tire and the bottom of the fender well. This gap was more obvious than I had expected. The 345's filled the fender well much better. If you were planning on lowering the car it would probably look just fine. This is just my opinion only and I am not trying to be critical of anyone with 335's.
So none of you guys reprogrammed for the wheel/tire change?
Also, the 11 1/2 using the 345's - did you have to modify any part of the suspension? John Mentioned going to this size may have rubbing problems
(wish I could remember exactly what he said)...if you lower.
Thanks for the info so far guys. I really think those 11 1/2's are in the cards for me!
I didnt do any reprogramming of the Computer. Also I forgot to mention that I didnt have to tub my car either. I did find out that if you slam your car as far as it goes the rears do rub on the inside fender well.
I did not have to reprogram. I used the 11- ½’s with a 9 – 3/8 backspacing. I do not have any suspension problems but I did have my car tubbed. I did have a slight rubbing problem with the right side tire rubbing the inside fender. This only happened with me (a big guy) and a passenger and only going over dips in the road. I was able to correct it with some creative body panel spacing.
Hi Wiggum! I have the same rear set up as Tom C5 (I got them Tom!!). I think he has the same 12" wheel in the rear that I do. My set up is 345x35x18 rear mounted on a 12" wheel with 9-3/8 back space. The car has been tubbed. The rear tires stick out slightly (1/2" to 3/4"). However, I also have a great looking deep dish because of the 12" width rim. My fronts are 275x40x17 on 9.5" rims (same height as stock).
If you want the 335s you can put on a 11.5" rim w/o tubbing. Tire will stick out. If you tub your car and do this set-up it would be killer and tucked under the car. However, you may find that you are like Tom and me and do not want more space between the tire and the body. We don't have to worry with the 345s in a 35 series. People flip over this set-up when they see it.
The stock tire is 26.8 (275x40x18)
The 335x30 is slightly shorter at 26.1
And the 345x35 is slightly taller at 27.4
My car does not throw codes. Speedo will only vary about 2mph with either wider tire.
I have 18X10.5 Fronts and 18X11.5 Rears running 285/30's & 335/30's with no problems whatsoever........oops scratch that, when I first go the car I had a little too much postive camber and the car was too low, so the inside rim on the rear was scaped by the spring. Now the height is right, and camber (plus I grinded a little off the spring bracket corner just in case). My car sits at 26" Front and 27" Rear..........no other problems. :cheers:
There I go again typing before I think. You are absolutly correct the 12" rims ARE the wheels you want with the 345's. The 11 - 1/2 wheels will cause some tire edge roll with the 335's.
George - congrats!! sounds like you like the results.
I don't necessarily agree with you TomC5, especially when the guy who is building them supplies the motorola cup teams with racing wheels, and he indicated no such problems. If I wanted to cut my car out then I would have got the 18X12 naturally because you get 1/4" more footprint, but as far as tire roll the tire sidewalls the do not bulge or roll at all. :cheers:
Hi Shinobi!
Tom and I talked about this earlier and what Tom meant to say was that if you put the 345 on an 11-1/2" rim that it would roll slightly. The 335 fits perfectly on an 11-1/2 rim. And just so others will know...with the 335 on the 11-1/2" rim you do not need to tub the car. However, the tire will stick out just slightly. If you don't want any tire past the car then you would need to tub and use no larger rim than the 11-1/2 and 335's. I hope this clears things up. Tom just got his fingers crossed on the keys. :cheers:
Gotcha bro.......not to try and make excuses but sometimes you start going through these threads and if you don't read it all or misinterpret something things get ugly. So thanks for clearing it up. It is very hard to find a 335 tire these days for an 11.5 rim, Pirelli was making a P Zero but I think discontinued it. I am running a 345 on the rear and it does stick out past the lip of the fender probably 1/8-1/4". I running a G Force R1 but they only last a little while and are dry traction only, so I guess I will be going to a 345 Michelin Pilot next. I did look into tubbing my car, but decided I did not know enough or trust just anybody to lay the fiberglass. Although John (TeamZR1) told me it was no that big a deal.
Peace :cheers:
Shinobi's97
Sorry about causing the confusion but in my first post I was running out the door of my office, it was a beautiful day and I wanted to drive.
My partner and I did nearly the same tire setup on our cars. He was more concerned about the amount the tire would stick out the side of his car, so he went with the 11-1/2” rim and I used the 12”. The result was that there was no perceivable difference in how much the tire sticks out but there was a noticeable amount tread roll on his car. He is currently running down to 22psi in the rears just to keep the tread on the road. If anyone is planning to use the 345’s the 12” rim is the minimum width I would recommend.
Again I apologize for causing confusion.