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Getting a head/cam job done as well as different converter. After talking with Mike Norris...one of the things he said that makes sense to me is...."these cars are so hard is keep the rubber on the ground after you increase the torque". Now, my question is....What can be done to the suspension to improve the hook? Think sometimes we concentrate on the power without an effort to control the torque. Are there shocks that will help? Different suspension? Running 315 drag radial now, but don't want to go with slicks and have to also run skinnies in the front. What other ideas do any of you guys have? I have come to believe that it is usually the guy that can hook that wins the race if the power is about equal. :yesnod:
Are you desiring to make more traction on the street or at the strip? The best drag radial for the street out there is the 315's you already have. You're not going to find anything that really hooks much better than that even considering wide 345's on 18x12 rims. At the track though I would recommend swapping on some 26" ET Streets with the skinnies up front being optional and not really effecting straight line traction. As far as improving suspension short of swapping out the IRS for a different setup (ladder bar, 9", etc), perhaps converting to a true coil over setup with some HAL/Koni adjustable shocks and stiffer springs would help you out.
You are absolutely correct! Quite a few races are won in the first 60'.
There are shocks that you can put on your car that will help you hook up. What you want to happen is for your front end to come up quick and then go down slow. You also want your rear end to squat a little and come up slow. This will put the maximum traction on the rear tires.
If this is not a race only car, This is not really the best way to go.
Old trick like disconnecting and removing the front swaybar can help a little on weight transfer.
A properly heated up 315 drag radial shoul do quite well in keeping the car in check off the line. There are people cutting 1.5x 60' times with 275 drag radials in automatic Vettes.
Good luck and of all the problems to have, this is not all that bad of one.
It's a colder plug, and better for higher hp apps.
Ya people usually run them when they have nitrous on there cars. But are they constantly spraying it? Of course notm they still work fine NA and I had some extras laying around so I swapped them in.
Another point to keep in mind, is that once you get traction at the wheels, the torque is going to have to go somewhere else and you'll really have to beef up the driveline.
you will never hook with 315's. What you need for racing is SIDEWALL. Small rim with tons of sidewall to flex. If I could use 15" rims I would, but I can only go as small as 16".
We are going to be facing the same problem with ~450 RWHP/475 RWTQ, so I had the same discussion with Mike Norris. Adjustable shocks seems to be the best way to go. Disconnecting the swaybars would help, but IMHO a little too much effort for the return.
Well I had an interesting experience, I replaced by base suspension sway bars with Hotchkis and then I couldn’t hook up. I would suggest going to base susp sway bars if you have a better handling package + you can drive round town on them without compromising too much. :cheers:
+ I was getting 1.8 60's on run craps with the base sway bars too! :D