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Drop the oil pan

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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 09:58 AM
  #1  
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Default Drop the oil pan

Since my friend's recent experience with losing one side of a rocker which sent 33-40 needle bearings into the oil pan or around the lifters

He was told by his mechanic that dropping the oil pan, cleaning it, and reinstall would run almost $500.......plus oil and that this was a 5+ hour job.

Questions:
is it a 5+ hour job
do you feel he should do it to see if he can recover the remaining missing bearings? Only found about 12-16 so far from the Magnetic drain plug and around the rockers in the head.

Your thoughts ?

Last edited by jrprich; Feb 2, 2007 at 07:31 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 10:48 AM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by jrprich
Since my friend's recent experience with losing one side of a rocker whicn sent 33-40 needle bearings into the oil pan or around the lifters

He was told by his mechanic that dropping the oil pan, cleaning it, and reinstall would run almost $500.......plus oil and that this was a 5+ hour job.

Questions:
is, is it a 5+ hour job
do you feel he should do it to see if he can recover the remaining missing bearings? Only found about 12-16 so far from the Magnetic drain plug and around the rockers in the head.

Your thoughts ?
I would drop the pan, whay doesnt he do it himself and save money?
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown 346
I would drop the pan, whay doesnt he do it himself and save money?
Because its not that easy to do with the engine in the car. You have to drop the front suspension and cross member. It can be done but you have to support the engine some way. Some use a hoist from above but working on a engine supported that way is not wise as the hoist is not completely stable.

I need to replace my pan in my car and have not found a way that I think is safe short of removing the engine from the car.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown 346
I would drop the pan, whay doesnt he do it himself and save money?

Because:

See post by gonbad
lack of proper tool and skills
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 11:04 AM
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I thought your friend was going to get some super-magnets (like those found in a hard drive) to drag anything in the bottom of the pan over to the drain plug.

And, in any case, if the needles haven't found their way into the engine to do damage, they're probably not going to now.

Have a good one,
Mike
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 02:44 PM
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I would personally just get one of those strong magnets w/ the flexible metal shaft and go to town through the drain plug holes. The needles are going to rest on the bottom of the pan and more then likely do no harm if they made it through the reciprocating assembly w/o any damage. Get out what you can through the draing plug and maybe flush a few qts through the system w/ plug open to flush any strays pieces out. The pickup has a filter and I doubt it'd even pickup the needle bearings if they were directly under it.

otherwise, just drop the front crossmember down and pull the pan. I supported the engine w/ my hoist but I now have a custom tool that wil hold the engine in from the top w/o the legs of the hoist.
Dave
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 04:19 PM
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I would get a magnetic drain plug and call it good.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by VetteDrmr
I thought your friend was going to get some super-magnets (like those found in a hard drive) to drag anything in the bottom of the pan over to the drain plug.

And, in any case, if the needles haven't found their way into the engine to do damage, they're probably not going to now.

Have a good one,
Mike
He is going to try that at the next oil change.........

I asked because the TSB on this has removing the pan as part of the repair.

I was actually more curious as to the quoted time of 5 hrs to pull the pan

Thanks,
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 08:01 PM
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I have done it a few times and the factory way is not the easy way. I am sure I could change a pan in 3 hours. The cross member only needs to come down ~4 inches or just off the bolts. Mark and remove the inner control arm bolts and leave the suspension alone otherwise except you have to drop the spring. Dealers have a fixture.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by VetteDrmr
I thought your friend was going to get some super-magnets (like those found in a hard drive) to drag anything in the bottom of the pan over to the drain plug.

Have a good one,
Mike
It's not that easy. The bottom half of the oil pan has partitions cast into it that I assume are there to strengthen the pan, and also prevent the oil from sloshing around too much. It's like a maze. You can't just start at the back and pull the magnet to the drain plug. The bearings would hit one of the partitions, and be left behind as you move the magnet forward. You would really need to look at the inside of a pan to see how to move the magnet to get the bearings to the drain hole. Even then your ony hoping you got them all.
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg_E
It's not that easy. The bottom half of the oil pan has partitions cast into it that I assume are there to strengthen the pan, and also prevent the oil from sloshing around too much. It's like a maze. You can't just start at the back and pull the magnet to the drain plug. The bearings would hit one of the partitions, and be left behind as you move the magnet forward. You would really need to look at the inside of a pan to see how to move the magnet to get the bearings to the drain hole. Even then your ony hoping you got them all.

Yes, that is what the mechanic told him.
But the good new should be that the baffles will help retain the bearings in the bottom of the pan and prevent them from moving around much........or so we hope
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by jrprich
Since my friend's recent experience with losing one side of a rocker whicn sent 33-40 needle bearings into the oil pan or around the lifters

He was told by his mechanic that dropping the oil pan, cleaning it, and reinstall would run almost $500.......plus oil and that this was a 5+ hour job.

Questions:
is, is it a 5+ hour job
do you feel he should do it to see if he can recover the remaining missing bearings? Only found about 12-16 so far from the Magnetic drain plug and around the rockers in the head.

Your thoughts ?
I think $500 is a very reasonable price for a good shop. The car should also be aligned after the cradle is lowered. Trust me even though they are dowled the alignment changes huge when the cradles are removed.
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 02:35 PM
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It's $500 worth of piece of mind. I would do it, only if you are going to
forever worry about it if you don't.

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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 02:56 PM
  #14  
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My personal opinion.... Don't waste the money. Those bearings aren't gonna hurt squat. The only way they could hurt is if somehow they were able to be sucked up off the bottom of the pan and then make it past the screen on the oil pick up tube. Since that isn't gonna happen, it's a total waste of money. Again, this has been my opinion, you don't have to believe it.

Hammer
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Tigger
It's $500 worth of piece of mind. I would do it, only if you are going to
forever worry about it if you don't.

Until you start worrying about the *next* rocker to unload it's bearings.

I really think you're OK. The bearings that may still be in the pan, IMO, would have already caused whatever damage they were going to.

Have a good one,
Mike
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 12:06 PM
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First to answer your question, if you really want to do this and you don't have access to a lift, I would pay the $500. I recently dropped my oil pan and as others have said, the bottom of the pan is partitioned into a maze, so a magnet is a total waste of time.

Secondly, your pickup tube has a screen which will not pass the needle bearings, so personally I wouldn't worry about it. Eventually your magnetic drain plug will get most of them anyway.

Third, if you want to do this yourself, you can do as I did. I went down to the hardware store and bought some aircraft stainless steel cable and clamps. I threaded the 3/16" cable through the engine mounts and up around the shock towers and tightened multiple clamps on it. It held my engine in place just fine and total cost was minimal. I supported under the balancer pulley as a safety measure in case a cable slipped. It worked like a champ.
John
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