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Need help/info on necessary mods to pull 1.5 and quicker 60' times. My car is an A4 which I bought on purpose to go the high stall route. Also, can someone tell me if there is an issue with stress cracks, or bent frames...and if so what is the best protection against (besides not racing )
Please forgive the newbie questions, i'm going from a 600 HP GN to a vette and trying not to make mistakes.
Last edited by Vader 87; Feb 6, 2007 at 02:56 PM.
Reason: Mistype same
A Yank YPT4400 has netted me a 1.49 60' so far with 397rwhp. A SS4000 gave me a 1.51 with 325rwhp(stock H&C). Both are excelent choices. What do you plan on doing motor wise? N/A, FI, etc..?
No issues with bent frames, etc.. unless you like to do wheelies.
Built tranny with a high stall, little more gears, at least 3.42s, MT e/t streets, you're so not getting there on drag radials. Be smart, put a DTE diff/tranny brace on that puppy for insurance.
A Yank YPT4400 has netted me a 1.49 60' so far with 397rwhp. A SS4000 gave me a 1.51 with 325rwhp(stock H&C). Both are excelent choices. What do you plan on doing motor wise? N/A, FI, etc..?
No issues with bent frames, etc.. unless you like to do wheelies.
Well, since I just came off a high HP turbo car and dealing with expensive race gas etc... I was thinking of going N/A and nitrous. However, a couple of these supercharger kits are calling my name.
Built tranny with a high stall, little more gears, at least 3.42s, MT e/t streets, you're so not getting there on drag radials. Be smart, put a DTE diff/tranny brace on that puppy for insurance.
Ok, the plan is to go with a 3.73 gear and at the very least a 3600 stall convertor with a trans from RPM. The GN's used to have a problem with certain convertors ballooning and pushing the crank out of the front of the motor. Is there still an issue with this? Thanks for the help guys. The board appears very friendly so far.
Ok, the plan is to go with a 3.73 gear and at the very least a 3600 stall convertor with a trans from RPM. The GN's used to have a problem with certain convertors ballooning and pushing the crank out of the front of the motor. Is there still an issue with this? Thanks for the help guys. The board appears very friendly so far.
you will be happy with the 373 and hi stall, I got to drive Yankeevettes car with this setup during the holidays, I'll be ordering mine soon...bob.
Also, can someone tell me if there is an issue with stress cracks, or bent frames...
Non that I know of..................there are coupe cars that have 500+ 1/4 mile passes with no issues taking the top on and off
I have over 250 passes on my 97 and a welded in 6-point............no issues. A welded in 5/6 point can only help rigidity
Non that I know of..................there are coupe cars that have 500+ 1/4 mile passes with no issues taking the top on and off
I have over 250 passes on my 97 and a welded in 6-point............no issues. A welded in 5/6 point can only help rigidity
Well a cage will definitely help if not completely stop the car from having any issues with cracks etc. This is good news though, the stinking GN had multiple cracks on new paint job from just a couple 1.5 60' passes. Of course, it had no cage but it did have all the frame stiffening goodies on it.
As for ballooning, it shouldn't happen as long as you tell your converter builder that it's for forced induction or spray. Then they'll add a anti-ballooning plate and extra clutches.
Built tranny with a high stall, little more gears, at least 3.42s, MT e/t streets, you're so not getting there on drag radials. Be smart, put a DTE diff/tranny brace on that puppy for insurance.
dont bet on that . Ive gone 1.62 w/ 375 rwhp w/ an 18" BFG Drag radial but I have and MN6 and 4.10s. it certainly is possible on a DR if you launch it hard.