The lens on my instrument cluster is scratched up and I want to change it. I've got my console off and the trim around the radio. I need to know if I have to take the entire dash pad off or what. I thought I had seen a post that explained how to change the entire intrument cluster and thought I had downloaded it but I can't find it. Can someone help?

 

I'm pretty sure you don't have to completely remove the dash pad but can remove the driver's side knee bolster, lower the steering column a bit, then get at it that way too.
Anyone have link on this?

 

If you wouldn't mind, take a couple pix! I need to do this as well.
A detailer hazed the plastic on mine with some kind of chemical.

 

Here's some very easy-to-follow instructions for removing the cluster, with lots of pics:

http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html

 

I've been there - done that many times. Before you do the dash panel removal, PLEASE try 3-M "plastic cleaner" which is a specially formulated ultrafine polishing compound for plastics. I started using it years ago on my Fords, because if you just "look" at their instrument lenses funny they'll scratch, VERY soft plastic, much worse than the Vette. This stuff really works wonders, and will save you the price of a new lense, and more importantly, the possible additional damage you may do by removing the dash.

The Dash is a fussy job, with a ton of different connectors, 7MM screws, and torx screws. The glove box install is especially a pain. Without exagerating, I've had my dash off 8 times, and it's not worth it, unless you cracked the instrument cluster. I have done this Job starting with a new pad replacement because the first owner had used crazy glue to attach some velcro for a radar detector on the top of the dash. It burned a nice divot in the top of the dash. (What an IDIOT!) The pad costs 8 Bills, but I had to do it. Then I went after a rattle that I thought for sure was in the middle of my heater box, more than once, I might add. IF YOU DO DECIDE TO DO THE DASH JOB, PLEASE PUT A CLOTH BAG OR OLD PILLOW CASE OR SOMETHING ON THE STREERING WHEEL, OTHERWISE THE RIM CAN GET VERY SCRATCHED/GOUGED UP BY THE JAGGED PIECES OF THE ASSEMBLY AS IT GOES OFF AND ON.

When you try the Plastic Cleaner, be sure to stay away from the edges of the bezel, because it's kind of hard to clean up all the compound residue close to the edges. It really works great!! Whatever scratch that is left will be so minor that you can only notice it with the sun shining directly on it in the early morning heading west! Really, you'll be satisfied.

Enjoy!

Bluemill

 

Excellent how-to on this and BTW step 9d also shows the cluster electrical plug that is necessary on the cluster for guys doing HUD retro fits on '99s.

 

Thanks to all of you. You have been very helpful.

 

I tinted my lens showen here;

I finally found the time to finish tinting and polishing my good spare lens for the IPC. It turned out really good, very smooth and shiny. I just hope it isn't too dark during the day!

This is a shot of the front



The back



The back at an angle, trying to show the gloss



I held it in front of the window here, the snow was the whitest stuff around to show the true color against.



Another window shot, I couldn't decide which one to use!



Now I just have to put it in!

I used this procedure to polish it to a mirror finish;

I’ve color/wet sanded two of my other Vettes before so I already had the stuff I needed. I had purchased a kit at Wal-Mart to restore headlights that are scratched and dull it’s called “5 Minute Headlamp Lens Restorer“ by CCP. It comes with a small rubber backing pad and six foam pads impregnated with some polishing mineral. I used a battery-operated drill with it. Funny thing is that I haven’t used it on headlights yet…

I had done the research on tints already, post # 182. I stayed with the Duplicolor Metal Cast that I bought at Wal-Mart. The other three tints are supposed to be better…I just followed the directions and laid down three good coats, ten minutes between coats. It’s important to protect the surface as best you can while spraying AND between coats, I placed it back on my spare IPC between coats and while it was setting up. Also a real good trick with spray painting is too wrap a bit of paper towel around the base of the nozzle because there is always going to be drips accumulating there that will get blown unto the surface you’re painting and give you a gorgeous blob. After I painted the lens I let it fully cure for 10 days.

Then dry sanded it first with 1500 grit, no block because of the curvature. I sanded until all the orange peel was gone. I had to dig into a few spots where dust adhered.

Lightly dry sanded with 2000 grit concentrating on the bad spots, probably unnecessary but it smoothed the spots where I had to get a bit medieval on the dust.

Compounded twice with Kit “Scratch Out” and a small foam pad from the Headlight Restorer kit. Scratch Out is awesome BTW, I use it all time on scratches and such…

Polished the front and back with Mequiars Mirror Glaze “Clear Plastic Polish # 17” using the same foam pad.

THEN I used the Headlight Polishing pad the way it’s supposed to be used on the front and back! I didn’t notice too much of a difference with this step.

This sounds lengthy but in all honesty it took less then two hours.

I’m extremely anxious to see how it looks during the day, I already know it looks awesome at night because of prior testing. I hope it’s not too dark….

Sorry if this is lengthy, I just cut and pasted it from the Thread I'm in...

 

Interesting. Be sure to show us an "installed" night shot. I'm curious how the red will look with the factory UV panel lighting.

 

never seen a tinted IPC lens, where did the idea come from?

 

I'm up to my neck in another thread "Interior LED Mod"

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1588861

(check it out ALOT of good info) myself and Bell are determined to eliminate alot of the problem areas associated with doing this Mod i.e. Bright and dim spots, AH/Traction ans HUD Page button being too dim... that sorta stuff. Anyway I've tasked myself with coming up with viable options for getting the IPC to match the upgraded lighting scheme blue or red so far.

I'm sure you already know about the front lit UVs blah blah... well it's been giving me untold amounts of grief! Blue isn't too bad as some of the white face gauges light up blue... well I did my interior in red and so far this is the only option that works. If it's too dark during the day then I'll put in white faced gauges...

I'm also working with a few custom gauge face manufacturers on getting some custom gauge faces made... that's like pulling teeth too!

So that's the story behind that. If anyone has any questions about the IPC shoot me a PM, I've torn the thing apart!

 

Here's some testing shots with a sacrificial lamp lens, ignore the scratches on the lens...

Control picture of handheld UV with Speedo...



Speedo with lens



Here's some preliinary testing with red window film in the car, excuse the poor quality of the pic. It was pretty much the exact some color as the tinted lens...

 

Holy Hijack Batman!!!!! Sorry Fire46!

All this info is in the other thread, it's alot of reading though!