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The 2 brown wires are your grounds, and I believe the white one is your O2 output while the purple is the O2 heater wire, although I may have that backwards (I haven't looked in a while). Stick a voltmeter probe on either wire with the key on; the O2 output will be < 1V, while the heater wire should be around 12V.
D = Power
C = Ground
B = Primary O2 Signal
A = Redundant O2 Signal
I use the same 4 wire O2's to convert the 1 wire non-heated stuff over and only wire in d,c, and b as above and they work fine. The only "heater" wiring is the power/ground wires.
The 2 brown wires are your grounds, and I believe the white one is your O2 output while the purple is the O2 heater wire, although I may have that backwards (I haven't looked in a while). Stick a voltmeter probe on either wire with the key on; the O2 output will be < 1V, while the heater wire should be around 12V.
HTH,
Brent
I guess I will have to do that. I am installing a wideband and the battery area is full of wires right now. I wanted to hook everything up first before I neaten everything and put the battery back in.
Originally Posted by Fastbird93
Pinout should be as follows:
D = Power
C = Ground
B = Primary O2 Signal
A = Redundant O2 Signal
I use the same 4 wire O2's to convert the 1 wire non-heated stuff over and only wire in d,c, and b as above and they work fine. The only "heater" wiring is the power/ground wires.
So the two browns are the + and -?
I am using my wideband as my narrowband also.
- I have to put a resistor between the two heater wires so the car thinks there is still a narrowband O2 hooked up and doesn't throw any codes.
- I have to run a wire that carries a narrowband signal from the wideband to the O2 sensor wire that goes to the PCM .
So, my resistor goes across the two browns and the narrowband wire goes to the purple. Sound right?