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I don't have a link,But if your doing it by your self like I had to,Be prepared for alot of work.Its easier to get it out from the top if you lower the front cross member alittle because that stupid oil pan will hit it and be a PITA to get out.You will have to disconnect the torque tube and drive shaft and disconnect ALL the wiring and what ever is connected to the motor,steering rack has to come out disconnect the A/C.Its pretty straight forward and can be done.Put all your bolts in coffee cans and mark them.Put masking tape on all the wire plugs and with a magic marker right on the tape where it went(i.e.MAP SENSOR).And snap tie the wire harnesses out of the way.Radiator has to come out.DISCONNECT BATTERY.I'm writing this off the top of my head so you get an idea because I just finished mine
If you follow cajun dudes write up at the end he explains at the end how to do it without removing the rest of the drivetrain. Dont quote me on that however. As I think I read it briefly.
Step 7 on cajun dudes tech page goes through the removal without the driveline. I had the driveline out when I did mine and yes I also had to drop cradle to the end of the bolts to get oil pan past. Just needed the extra half inch.
Last edited by easyvette; Mar 17, 2007 at 09:34 PM.
If you follow cajun dudes write up at the end he explains at the end how to do it without removing the rest of the drivetrain. Dont quote me on that however. As I think I read it briefly.
Step 7 on cajun dudes tech page goes through the removal without the driveline. I had the driveline out when I did mine and yes I also had to drop cradle to the end of the bolts to get oil pan past. Just needed the extra half inch.
xDoes the steering rack definately have to come out? I have te driveline out and was hoping to avoid having to take the rack out!!
I'm wondering the same thing about the steering rack... I think it does because there is no room for it to move forward with the balancer off there, and the engine does have to move forward to get the input shaft of the torque tube safely out of the clutch and pressure plate.
I don't have a link,But if your doing it by your self like I had to,Be prepared for alot of work.Its easier to get it out from the top if you lower the front cross member alittle because that stupid oil pan will hit it and be a PITA to get out.You will have to disconnect the torque tube and drive shaft and disconnect ALL the wiring and what ever is connected to the motor,steering rack has to come out disconnect the A/C.Its pretty straight forward and can be done.Put all your bolts in coffee cans and mark them.Put masking tape on all the wire plugs and with a magic marker right on the tape where it went(i.e.MAP SENSOR).And snap tie the wire harnesses out of the way.Radiator has to come out.DISCONNECT BATTERY.I'm writing this off the top of my head so you get an idea because I just finished mine
Thanks! Anything else you want to write, please go ahead!!
From: Murrieta Ca..... America, fun while it lasted
I just did it on my 99 and did'nt bother to remove hood. It's not hard, leave the rack in, take out the p.s. pump, drop the rear cradle while supporting the TQ tube and back the rear cradle out. The you just pull the engine with a good tilter. I did it alone in an afternoon.
I just finished installing my engine...I was able to take the motor out by bring in the engine hoist from the passenger side and NOT removing my hood (I did disconect the struts for that extra 2 inches)...I had to drop the cradle once the engine was supported with the hoist...Also put a jack stand under the torque tube for support and unbolted the torque tube from bell housing...It took about an 2 hours to pull the motor...This is the way I did it and I will stand by that instead for taking the hood off and having to line it up later
-John
Levittown, NY
Huh, 4 bolts, 4 shock bolts and 4 upper control arm bolts, e-brake clips and like 2 10mm bolts... good luck.
When all you have is hand tools it's a pain, I've done it 3 times before and I don't care to do it again unless I absolutely have to. I could do it in 2 or 3 hours, but I really just don't feel like it.
Drop the front craddle and pull it the way I said you'll be fine
Did you have to pull the upper control arms off to drop the cradle? I'm on my laptop doing all this right now, I have everything disconnected, I still have to tackle the torque tube. I'm trying to decide if I want to disconnect it at the tube or pull the bellhousing off the block.
How far did you have to drop the cradle to do this? Thanks!
Oh yes, I took my steering rack out, forgetting I have a CLB, and my wheel spun a little. How bad did I screw my steering up?
Did you have to pull the upper control arms off to drop the cradle? I'm on my laptop doing all this right now, I have everything disconnected, I still have to tackle the torque tube. I'm trying to decide if I want to disconnect it at the tube or pull the bellhousing off the block.
How far did you have to drop the cradle to do this? Thanks!
Oh yes, I took my steering rack out, forgetting I have a CLB, and my wheel spun a little. How bad did I screw my steering up?
you didn't have to take the steering rack out...i took off the nuts holding in the front shocks, the upper control arm bolts that holds the control arms to the frame, took the brackets off the frame that holds the hard brake line in place (don't forget to loosen your abs control box from the craddle), and took off the motor mount nuts, then the 5 torque tube bolts that holds the bell housing and torque tube together, then i loosened then four nuts that holds the front cradle to the frame, lowered the cradle enought so the engine could move forward to clear the drive shaft...all this was done while the engine was supported with the hoist and while the torque tube was supported by a jack stand.