So I searched all over, and did not find a write-up on a basic oil change. Is there anything out there? Where do you jack up the front end from?

 

http://97vette.com/howto/oil/index.html

 

Thanks for the link. Yikes! Looks like I'll be looking for a buddy with a lift, or giving my money to Jiffy Lube.

 

No lift required. I did mine using ramps for years before getting a lift.

 

I just changed the oil and filter on my 97. Park on a level surface. I placed the jacking pucks in the front and back jacking points of the drivers side. Chocked the wheels. Removed the drivers side front tire ( Gives you more room and will be used for safety). Placed a racing jack under REAR drivers side on puck and raised. Placed a sissor jack (2 racing jacks would be quicker but I only have one) under FRONT drivers side and raise. Raise front and back high enough to slide front tire under car between sissor jack and racing jack for added safety. This way if your car WOULD move off of jacks it would land on tire/rim. BETTER THAN YOU!!! Slide and reach under and remove filter and plug and start to drain. While it is draining reverse above procedure and lower car back down so oil will fully drain. Then after it drains jack back up using the 2 jacks and front tire for safety and put plug back in and add new filter. Fill with oil and check for leaks and reset oil moniter and your done. This is my shadetree mechanic way of changing the oil. WORKS FOR ME!!!!!!!!!

 

Bump

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1556947916
If you want to get every last drop out, jack up the rear at the center of the cross-member. Make sure you have the front wheels chocked, so the car doesn't roll back when you do so.

 

From the GM Service Manual (I changed text to bold in areas that conflict with generally assumed procedures here on the forum):

Engine Oil and Oil Filter Change
Removal Procedure

Important
Be sure the vehicle is LEVEL during this entire procedure.


Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.

Important
Allow a MINIMUM of 7 MINUTES for the engine oil to fully drain, once the engine oil drain plug and the engine oil filter are removed.

Remove the engine oil drain plug and allow the oil to drain.

Remove the oil filter by turning the oil filter counterclockwise and allow any remaining oil to drain.

Installation Procedure

Clean the gasket sealing area on the engine oil filter mounting surface with a clean, dry cloth.
Lightly oil the replacement oil filter gasket, use CLEAN oil.

Important
Use a cap-type wrench, AC Delco OF17W or equivalent, or a strap-type wrench with swivel handle to insure proper installation.

Install the filter by turning the oil filter clockwise. Tighten
Tighten the oil filter 3/4 to 1 full turn, after the oil filter gasket contacts the oil filter mounting surface.

Wipe the engine oil drain plug with a clean, dry cloth.
Install the engine oil drain plug. Tighten
Tighten the engine oil drain plug to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).

Important
Allow a MINIMUM of 3 MINUTES for the NEW engine oil to fully fill the engine oil pan.


Fill the engine with the proper type and amount of NEW engine oil. DO NOT use any engine oil additives in Corvette engines. For information on the proper type of oil to use, refer to Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations . For information on the engine oil capacity, refer to Capacities - Approximate Fluid .

Run the engine for 3 minutes and thoroughly inspect the oil filter and the oil pan drain plug areas for leaks.

Allow the engine to cool for a minimum of 3 minutes.
Recheck the engine oil level. Top-off the engine oil to the full mark on the oil level indicator (dipstick).
Lower the vehicle.

Bill

 

gorilla ramps at advanced or pep boys, $30/pair, money well spent.

 

Best to replace the oil drain plug "o-ring after each change.

 

 

You do need to have the car level when changing the oil. If you have a table saw or power saw to cut wood you can make this. buy two 2"x12" x 10foot long pine boards from Lowes or any lumber yard.
Cut each in 15 inch sections so you have total of 16 pieces from the two boards. You will use four boards per wheel. Screw or nail four boards together stacking them four boards high. you will now have a block the is 12"x15"x 6" high (a 2x12 is really 1.5 in thick). make four of these. I also took a 2x4 and ripped it down the middle and cut them to the width of the block and attached one on each end to act as stops.

Then jack up each side with the jack pucks so the tire is off the ground high enough to slide the block under each wheel, lower the wheels on to the blocks and repeat the same thing on the other side. When you are done all four wheels are off the ground and the car is level for changing the engine oil and transmission and rear end. I find this works great to get at anything under the car.

 

Why do you think this is necessary "after each change"? I think a simple inspection is all that's needed and replace only if you see damage to the o-ring.