So what do you do when your shocks go away? Step up to the plate and purchase GM replacements @ $1600+. Or buy Bilstein around $300and live with a code?

 

Here's another option ....

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...&highlight=F55

HTH

 

Thanks, but trying to get out without spending big bucks. Someone told me that there was a way to use standard shocks and purchase a plug from MidAmerica to defeat the system. Heard of this?

 

You could have the selective ride option turn off with a Tech 2 or you can install the simulators to trick the computer. There's alot of info on this---try a doing a search.

 

Look in the parts for sale section. I found my replacement F45 shocks that way. I got all four for $200 from a car with less than 10K miles on them.

However when these go I am going coilovers and deleting the system entirely.

 

The least expensive way is to buy regular-type shocks you like and have the computer function shut off with a Tech 2. The simulators are not cheap either, as far as I remember. If you live with the code, the computer will limit your car to 80 mph and reduce power. I don't know where you are located, but a dealer can delete the function for the F45 suspension. If you live within driving distance of northwestern New Jersey, I can do it for you. I have my own Tech 2. You'll need to archive the forum, though, to find the directions. I know they are posted somewhere.

 

Here you go.
http://www.stopforce.com/RPO.html

 

or for ten doallrs worth of ratshack resistors you can fool the computer. thats what i did and works great. I run C6 Z06 shocks and love them.

 

How much were the Z06 shocks?

 

"search" is your friend - this subject has been beat to death

 

Ok, do you have a drawing on how many and how to wire in. Value/watt size would be nice. If you know the ohm value and current I can size them. Also if it is just resistance,, does it vary if the selector changes from one of the settings. Thanks Jim

 

Go to the end of this thread were you will find a picture and description of what I did. You can get away with using low wattage resistors but must leave the rid select switch in the (I think) comp. mode otherwise you will burn up the low wattage resistors.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1293094

 

Thanks for the info and update. I did a few quick calcualtions based on the numbers from the site.

Given, 8 volts for the connector,,

Given Resistors of 10 and 15 ohms.

The amperage at 8 Volts for the 10 and 15 ohm resistors would be:
.8 Amps for the 10 ohm
.5 Amps for the 15 ohm.

What is important here is the watts or heat generated to determine if the resistors will burn out. In these examples the data is:

4.1 Watts peak consumption for the 10 ohm resistor
3.75 Watts peak consumption for the 15 ohm resistor.

So using a 10 ohm 5 watt wire wound resistor would support continuous operation and not burn out, but it would be hot.
The 15 ohm resistor would have less heat if you were to use a 5 watt wire wound resistor. Don't use the carbon resistors use wire wound and you will not burn them out. Hope this helps. Jim

 

220 dollars shipped. contact Gene at gmpartshouse.com

 

OK, dudleyD used a 15 ohm / 25 watt resistor, Brad used a 10 ohm / 10 watt resistor, but you think a 15 ohm / 5 watt resistor is the best?

Also, radio shack is showing these resistors in both 5% and 10% wirewound. Which should I buy?

I plan on tackling this project this weekend, so I'm trying to gather as much info as possible. Thanks

 

15 ohms 4.267 watts
10 ohms 6.400 watts

Given watts = heat generated in the resistor you want the lowest wattage that will work. This looks like the 15 ohm will give you only 4.267 watts. However carbon resistors will have to be very big to do this. So what I would use would be a wire wound 15 ohm at least 10 watts. When you go to buy one they might only have a bigger size say 15 watts. This will be ok. The watts determines how much heat the resistor can take much like a fuse. If you only have 4.267 watts you could use a 5 but that is very close to the limit and would be very hot to touch. So my reco is at least a 10 watt wire wound. The 15 ohm resistor will only have about 70% of the current of the 10 and therefore lower heat.

If it were my car I would use a 15 ohm 10 watt wire wound if available If not I would use a 15 ohm 10 watt or higher but not over 25 watt dues to they get bigger as the watt's go up.

Note,, in your applicaton 5 or 10 % doesn't make a difference,, buy which ever % is cheaper.

My question is would a 20 ohm or 25 ohm resistor work. This would lower the amperage even more and therefore lowering the watts required and could be a smaller resistor.

I will be glad to help just let me know. I drive 99 Nassau Blue bought new w/ 3 miles on the odometer. My full time job since I retired is to wear the vet out so I can buy a new one. My problem is I like the C5 styling over the Base C6,, but the Z06 C6 is ok but no automatic.
Rumor has it next year there will be a C6 Supersport,, that will be interesting to see. Jim