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Front TurnSignal Housing

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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 04:48 PM
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Default Front TurnSignal Housing

Evidently, I got water in the left front turn signal/running light housing and broke the turn signal/running light bulb. Any ideas as to how to get into the housing to get out the broken glass? (Broken amber pieces show through the clear lens). Thought about using large tweezers through the light bulb housing hole but that doesn't look too promising. Help!!!!!
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 04:57 PM
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You could try a vacuum or remove the housing and dump it upside down if that doesn't work.
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 05:21 PM
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How hard is it to pull the housing?
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 05:31 PM
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http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you...Chevy_Corvette
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 05:53 PM
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Thanks! I'll pul the bulb and try the vacuum cleaner!
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 09:33 PM
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Remove the housing, it's not that hard!
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 10:53 AM
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Took Mine To The Dealer And They Had To Pull The Headlite Assy Out To Get To It. Had The Whole Set-up Replaced Due To Corrosion. Price Tag....$220. That Included Replacing Anything Else In That Area.
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by VETTING
Remove the housing, it's not that hard!

This is what I would do. I think you will end up with a better job if you just remove the housing so you can do whatever is necessary to clean it out.
If you remove the air dam on that side, and then remove the access panel between the air dam and the wheel well, you can easily remove the whole housing through the access hole. I changed my assemblies out with no problems.
There are just two screws that hold the bottom of the housing to the bumper, and the top is held by a spring that hooks the bumper to the housing. Remove the bulbs, unhook the top spring, then unscrew the lower screws, and remove.
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 10:26 PM
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Thanks for all of the help. Got the bulb changed but broken pieces are still in the housing. Will try to remove the housing next week. The tip about removing the hood adjusting screw was a lifesaver for just changing the bulb. I will use the tips on removing the housing as well. Thanks again to all!
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by JonRoss
Thanks for all of the help. Got the bulb changed but broken pieces are still in the housing. Will try to remove the housing next week. The tip about removing the hood adjusting screw was a lifesaver for just changing the bulb. I will use the tips on removing the housing as well. Thanks again to all!
If the pieces don't want to come out with the housing removed, I'd try flushing it out with water.
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by JonRoss
Thanks for all of the help. Got the bulb changed but broken pieces are still in the housing. Will try to remove the housing next week. The tip about removing the hood adjusting screw was a lifesaver for just changing the bulb. I will use the tips on removing the housing as well. Thanks again to all!
After you remove the housing you may find cracks in it, over the bulb area caused by the heat of the bulb. Most likely that's how the moisture got in. Use some high temp sealant on the cracks, outside of the housing. Let housing set in sun or use a hair dryer on low to dry moisture on inside before you put back in car. Just did this job Sunday on a 2000.

Cheers
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 08:25 AM
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Just replace mine with the 49.dollar ones from ebay. They are marked GM and just as good if not better then the OEM's.
Both of the old ones had the dreaded heat cracks on the top. On the new ones I replaced the O rings with ones that were slightly thicker. I also glued small .75" x .75" mirrors directly over the bulb to deflect the heat. I also placed two small dessicant containers (from prescription drug bottles) with a dot of shoe goop (sneaker repair goo) in the corners of the lenses to take in any moisture. That was 6 months ago and 6k miles and there are no heat cracks and no moisture and that was through rain and sub freezing temps here in Ohio. Wish they had a cool burning lights for the DRL's or a new place in the lens to place them. Thinking about boring a new hole in one of the ones I removed and mounting the light differently to see if there in a heat difference.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Benpup
Just replace mine with the 49.dollar ones from ebay. They are marked GM and just as good if not better then the OEM's.
Both of the old ones had the dreaded heat cracks on the top. On the new ones I replaced the O rings with ones that were slightly thicker. I also glued small .75" x .75" mirrors directly over the bulb to deflect the heat. I also placed two small dessicant containers (from prescription drug bottles) with a dot of shoe goop (sneaker repair goo) in the corners of the lenses to take in any moisture. That was 6 months ago and 6k miles and there are no heat cracks and no moisture and that was through rain and sub freezing temps here in Ohio. Wish they had a cool burning lights for the DRL's or a new place in the lens to place them. Thinking about boring a new hole in one of the ones I removed and mounting the light differently to see if there in a heat difference.
DO YOU USE BAILING WIRE OR OLD CLOTHES HANGERS FOR CLAMPS AND BOLTS? YOU CAN SAVE MONEY THAT WAY ALSO. AND IF YOU DO GET A CRACK USE DUCK TAPE.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 03:38 PM
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I just had the same problem, bulb busted the 2nd time in a few months due to water getting in the housing. I pulled it off the car a sealed the hole with some JB Weld. Here's some pics I took while doing it...
http://picasaweb.google.com/land.dav...alLightsRepair
STW, Dave
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