HELP! Clutch does not disengage!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 776
Likes: 0
From: Dunnellon Florida
HELP! Clutch does not disengage!
Following about 1 hour of driving in city traffic it becomes nearly impossible to shift into a gear at a stop and I've noticed the car will move backward (in reverse) with the clutch pedal fully depressed.
When the car is cold or has been driven over the highway (as opposed to city driving) it seems to be o.k.
Anybody ever have the same problem? If so,what had to be done to correct it?
Thanks for your help . :chevy
When the car is cold or has been driven over the highway (as opposed to city driving) it seems to be o.k.
Anybody ever have the same problem? If so,what had to be done to correct it?
Thanks for your help . :chevy
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 776
Likes: 0
From: Dunnellon Florida
Re: HELP! Clutch does not disengage! (av8or3)
I fixed it guys.I bled the hydralic clutch system & flushed it w/fresh DOT 4
fluid.Got a good pedal now that engages about 3" from the floor.I think I'll
go back and wrap the line from the m/cylinder to the slave cylinder with some
sort of heat reflective covering to protect it from the "pup" cat on the left side. (the line is positioned just a few inchs directly above the cat and I believe
the fluid in it could boil causing the problem)
Is kind of a pain in the butt as you have to remove the cats,the driveline cover plate & the clutch inspection cover in order to wrangle a tiny 7/16" wrench up to the bleeder nipple. Works good now though,hope it lasts a long
time. :D
fluid.Got a good pedal now that engages about 3" from the floor.I think I'll
go back and wrap the line from the m/cylinder to the slave cylinder with some
sort of heat reflective covering to protect it from the "pup" cat on the left side. (the line is positioned just a few inchs directly above the cat and I believe
the fluid in it could boil causing the problem)
Is kind of a pain in the butt as you have to remove the cats,the driveline cover plate & the clutch inspection cover in order to wrangle a tiny 7/16" wrench up to the bleeder nipple. Works good now though,hope it lasts a long
time. :D
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 7,248
Likes: 0
Re: HELP! Clutch does not disengage! (av8or3)
Congrats. Did you use a synthetic? I plan on switching to Valvoline Synpower Dot3/4 next time I bleed.
I'd highly recc a modified M/C line. The stock one has a restriction that slows hydraulic flow, affects shifts, overheats the fluid, causes pedal to stick and abuses the disk/fly.
I'd highly recc a modified M/C line. The stock one has a restriction that slows hydraulic flow, affects shifts, overheats the fluid, causes pedal to stick and abuses the disk/fly.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,248
Likes: 1
From: Newland US
Re: HELP! Clutch does not disengage! (av8or3)
av8or3,
I posted a speculation on here quite a while back. Basically I was wondering if the fluid was somehow acquiring moisture, which at lower temps was not compressible, just as brake fluid is not.....but upon being heated sufficiently the water was going to vapor and giving the results that you were experiencing.
I think your idea of insulating the system from heat in as much as possible makes sense....but I think the most intense heat is going to be in the area of the torque tube and absorbed into the actuator and the fluid at that point.
Keep us informed of what you learn.
Good luck.
Mark
I posted a speculation on here quite a while back. Basically I was wondering if the fluid was somehow acquiring moisture, which at lower temps was not compressible, just as brake fluid is not.....but upon being heated sufficiently the water was going to vapor and giving the results that you were experiencing.
I think your idea of insulating the system from heat in as much as possible makes sense....but I think the most intense heat is going to be in the area of the torque tube and absorbed into the actuator and the fluid at that point.
Keep us informed of what you learn.
Good luck.
Mark
