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Rear gear swap??

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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 01:45 PM
  #21  
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I think everyones ignoring the initial question and giving me the run around. Ive looked under there and see its not a straight axle. I know its more work than most, I know you need special tools. How many more are going to reply saying the same?
Is it a "vette" sensus that your not supposed to work on your own car or something?
All this talk and yet no one still has answered what tools are needed. I can make them as well. I have access to lasers, bridgeport mill, I have my own TIG welder.
Theoretically i could just exchange my car for one thats already done, but I choose to build it myself. Obviously this isnt the site to find info on this.
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 01:53 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Pwrtrip75
I think everyones ignoring the initial question and giving me the run around. Ive looked under there and see its not a straight axle. I know its more work than most, I know you need special tools. How many more are going to reply saying the same?
Is it a "vette" sensus that your not supposed to work on your own car or something?
All this talk and yet no one still has answered what tools are needed. I can make them as well. I have access to lasers, bridgeport mill, I have my own TIG welder.
Theoretically i could just exchange my car for one thats already done, but I choose to build it myself. Obviously this isnt the site to find info on this.


Did you look at the write ups?
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 02:08 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Blown-Interceptor
Did you look at the write ups?
That would be what I am looking for.
Im under the impression no one in history has ever performed a gear swap, except shops that already have done several, and never did a first one, just started out having several done.???
Well when I do mine I'll take several pics and make a user friendly manual to go along with them.

Last edited by Pwrtrip75; Apr 1, 2007 at 02:12 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 02:27 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Pwrtrip75
That would be what I am looking for.
Im under the impression no one in history has ever performed a gear swap, except shops that already have done several, and never did a first one, just started out having several done.???
Well when I do mine I'll take several pics and make a user friendly manual to go along with them.


There were several links posted in this thread.
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 03:21 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Blown-Interceptor
There were several links posted in this thread.
Just 1 link.
Yes, how to drop the diff out, none actualy covering R&R of the gears themselves.
http://mikemercury.home.att.net/342.htm
Yes if i were to buy a different one and simply bolt it in that would help.
Im looking for something a bit more in depth.
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 03:30 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Pwrtrip75

Well when I do mine I'll take several pics and make a user friendly manual to go along with them.
great.

Please wait -though- until you have about 2000 test miles, confirming the success.
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 04:03 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Mike Mercury
great.

Please wait -though- until you have about 2000 test miles, confirming the success.
lol.... im sensing some sarcasm.
Its all cool.
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 04:33 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Pwrtrip75
I think everyones ignoring the initial question and giving me the run around. Ive looked under there and see its not a straight axle. I know its more work than most, I know you need special tools. How many more are going to reply saying the same?
Is it a "vette" sensus that your not supposed to work on your own car or something?
All this talk and yet no one still has answered what tools are needed. I can make them as well. I have access to lasers, bridgeport mill, I have my own TIG welder.
Theoretically i could just exchange my car for one thats already done, but I choose to build it myself. Obviously this isnt the site to find info on this.
If you stick around on the Forum and listen a little, you will find that most people here are doing their own work on their cars - and those who have done their own work and done a write up on it, have done AWSUM write ups that are FAR better than the Helms manual ever will be (examples include, but not limited to EG, CajunDude, Mike Mercury, etc).

You obviously have access to a well equiped machine shop, but what I don't think you have yet is a Helms manual - and you need to start with the Helms manual for what you are doing. The Helms manual is going to tell you which specialty tools you need - it probably isn't going to show pictures of all the specialty tools, and if the Helms manual shows pics of the tools, the pics won't be the best - Instead, the Helms manual is going to say something like "apply the KM 16473 holding tool. Next install the AB2439-78 puller . . ." Useful, huh?

No, this isn't the correct site for finding a detailed, DIY write up on swapping your own gears within the carrier. I said in a prior post that I'm not aware of any DIY write-ups covering a gear swap, and I also said that the Helms manual was the only place I'm aware of that will have the information you are looking for.


Originally Posted by Pwrtrip75
That would be what I am looking for.
Im under the impression no one in history has ever performed a gear swap, except shops that already have done several, and never did a first one, just started out having several done.???
Well when I do mine I'll take several pics and make a user friendly manual to go along with them.
Your manual WOULD be the FIRST of its kind that I am aware of.

Originally Posted by Mike Mercury
great.

Please wait -though- until you have about 2000 test miles, confirming the success.

Valuable advice from a knowledgeable source!

Last edited by 94legaleagle; Apr 1, 2007 at 04:36 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 06:11 PM
  #29  
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A friend of mine has some software called "xxxxx" cost a ton of money but has every bit of info on every car, make, model made you could imagine. I just called him and when he gets home he is going to look, but hes sure there is a whole process step by step guide to R&R of the ring and pinion. He sent me a whole detailed drawing of my front diff in my tahoe a few monthes back, not stuff you'd find in the average Helms, Chiltons, or over the counter manual.
If i find some good info i'll post it.

No I dont have a helms manual, I figured id ask around and see if anyone had any info first.

Another question I have, What breaks on these most? I read a few posts people breaking output shafts? Is there a reason for them breaking? Geometry? or just a poorly designed part subjected to too much abuse?

Last edited by Pwrtrip75; Apr 1, 2007 at 07:17 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 07:38 PM
  #30  
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I now have more info than I know what to do with. I have everything in .PDF format. With step by step everything , awsome illustrations and a complete list of tools needed for the fallowing:
Axleassembly.pdf
Axledisasembly.pdf
diffhousing.pdf
drivepinionassembly.pdf
piniondepthadjustment.pdf
piniongear.pdf
removetrans.pdf
ringgear.pdf.
torquespecs.pdf

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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 12:33 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Pwrtrip75
I now have more info than I know what to do with. I have everything in .PDF format. With step by step everything , awsome illustrations and a complete list of tools needed for the fallowing:
Axleassembly.pdf
Axledisasembly.pdf
diffhousing.pdf
drivepinionassembly.pdf
piniondepthadjustment.pdf
piniongear.pdf
removetrans.pdf
ringgear.pdf.
torquespecs.pdf


I'm assuming the above PDF files are from your friends "xxx" software - I've never seen what information is contained within these files, so I'm making an ASSUMPTION here that the info contained in the PDF files is at least somewhat similar to the same information contained in the Helms manual - for example, I'm ASSUMING that the "removetrans.pdf" you mention above is similar to the procedure in the Helms manual for removing the transmission

If so, I might further GUESS that that the "removetrans.pdf" might even be organized a LITTLE better than the Helms manual is, because in the Helms manual, you have to jump from here, to there, back to here, then find another chapter when doing for instance, the removal of the transmission - those that have used the Helms manual will know what I'm talking about - the Helms manual doesn't exactly flow from step 1 beginning to step xxx end smoothly - there is some skipping around to be done and you have to put everything together - hopefully the PDF files have at least made a logical path to follow

IF my ASSUMPTION and GUESS above are correct, then I would encourage you to compare the "removetrans.pdf" that you have to CajunDude's and Mike Mercury's T/C swap write ups - reason and point being that CajunDude and Mike Mercury's writeups have the Helms manual BEAT, HANDS DOWN, in ease, simplicity and straight-forwardness for the T/C swap (and hence tranny removal) - having removed my tranny to swap my T/C and having 3 references for the procedure: (1. CajunDude writeup; 2. Mike Mercury writeup; 3. Helms manual), I would take CajunDude's or Mike Mercury's step by step instructions ANYDAY

The point is that you SHOULD compare the removetrans.pdf w/ the above writeups, and decide for yourself which instructions are the easiest to follow. You may find that the removetrans.pdf is the best source, and if so, we WOULD like to know that. But if you find that CajunDude's and Mike Mercury's writeups are superior to the removetrans.pdf that you have, then you MIGHT want to consider whether or not the other PDF files that you have are worth the paper they are printed on - or not.

Again, I haven't seen the PDF files, so I'm NOT making any judgment or saying that they don't contain good information - just go cautiously, because you are going where few others have dared to tread. And you may be able to compare the transremoval procedures as I describe above as sort of a "litmus" test to see how good the PDF files really are
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 07:55 AM
  #32  
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I can copy and paste some of it, here

removetrans.pdf

1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 1
Differential Assembly: Service and Repair
Differential Replacement (Manual Transmission)
Removal Procedure
Notice: When tilting down the rear of the driveling, observe the clearance between the rear of the engine and the composite dash panel. Do not allow
the engine to rest unsupported against the composite dash panel, or vehicle damage may result.
Notice: When lowering and removing the rear of the driveline, observe the clearance between the rear of the transaxle assembly and the underbody
to prevent damage.
Notice: When tilting down the rear of the driveline, insert a putty knife or similar tool between the shift control bracket on the driveline support
assembly and the brake pipe retainer on the driveline tunnel wall to prevent damage.
^ Tools Required
^ J 42055 Transmission Support Fixture
^ J 36221 Hydraulic Clutch Line Separator
Caution: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the console. Refer to Console Replacement in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators.
3. Carefully pry off the shift control **** button.
4. Pry the shift control **** retainer out of the slots and remove the retainer.
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 2
5. Unscrew the shift control ****.
6. Grasp the sides of the shift control boot and apply light pressure in toward the shift control lever to begin to release the shift boot retaining tabs
from the I/P accessory trim plate.
7. Using light pressure, continue to release the remaining boot retaining tabs.
8. Lift the boot away from the trim plate and remove the boot.
9. Remove the I/P accessory trim plate. Refer to Trim Plate Replacement - I/P Accessory in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators.
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 3
10. Remove the shift control closeout boot retaining nuts.
11. Remove the shift control closeout boot.
12. Remove the shift control assembly. Refer to Shift Control Assembly Replacement.
13. Remove the I/P lower insulator panel - LH. Refer to Closeout/Insulator Panel Replacement - I/P Lower (LH) in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators.
14. Remove the clutch master cylinder pushrod retainer.
15. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal.
16. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
17. Remove the clutch actuator cylinder hose from the hose retaining clip (at the rear of the engine).
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 4
18. Using the J36221, depress the white circular release ring on the actuator cylinder hose and simultaneously pull lightly on the master cylinder hose
to disconnect.
19. Protect both hose coupling ends from dirt and damage.
20. Remove the rear tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
21. Remove the intermediate exhaust pipe. Refer to Intermediate Pipe Replacement in Exhaust System.
22. Tie off the muffler assemblies to the underbody to support out of the way.
23. Remove the driveline tunnel closeout panel. Refer to Driveline Tunnel Closeout Panel Replacement.
24. Remove the rear transverse spring. Refer to Rear Transverse Spring Replacement in Steering and Suspension.
25. Support the lower control arm with a straight jack.
26. Disconnect the outer tie rod end from the suspension knuckle. Refer to Tie Rod Replacement (Suspension Link) in Steering and Suspension.
27. Remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt.
28. Disconnect the lower ball joint from the suspension knuckle. Refer to Knuckle Replacement in Steering and Suspension.
29. Remove the straight jack from the control arm.
30. Repeat steps 25 through 29 for the other side of the vehicle.
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 5
31. Assemble the J 42055.
32. Install the J 42055 to a transmission jack.
33. Position and firmly secure the J 42055 with the transmission jack to the transmission.
34. Disconnect the wiring harness and brake pipe clip retainers from the rear suspension crossmember.
35. Remove the differential to transmission lower nut. (Removing the nut at this time will aid in separating the differential from the transmission after
the driveling has been removed from the vehicle.)
36. Remove the transaxle mount to rear crossmember nuts.
37. Position a transmission jack under the rear suspension crossmember and firmly secure the crossmember to the jack.
38. Using ONLY HAND TOOLS, remove the rear suspension crossmember retaining nuts.
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 6
39. With the aid of an assistant, slowly lower the rear suspension crossmember away from the vehicle frame rails and remove the crossmember.
40. Remove the transaxle mount bracket to differential bolts.
41. Remove the transaxle mount with bracket. (Removing the transaxle mount will allow for greater stability on a workbench after the driveling is
removed.)
42. Using a pry bar, CAREFULLY release the axle shafts from the differential.
43. Tie off the axle shafts (1 ) to the underbody to support out of the way. The muffler assembly pipes toward the rear offer a good location to help
support the axle shafts (1).
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 7
44. Release the retainer (1) securing (and positioning) the wiring harness to the L-shaped brackets along the driveline support assembly, then slide
the harness up out of the brackets and position out of the way.
45. SLOWLY lower the driveling approximately 5 cm (2 inch), while simultaneously adjusting the angle of tilt, in order to access the electrical
connectors.
46. Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) electrical connector.
47. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the stud at the differential rear cover.
48. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer clip from the top of the differential.
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 8
49. Disconnect the backup lamp switch electrical connector.
50. Disconnect the reverse lockout solenoid electrical connector.
51. Disconnect the gear select (skip shift) solenoid electrical connector.
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 9
52. Disconnect the transmission fluid temperature sensor electrical connector, if equipped.
53. Insert a putty knife, or similar tool, between the edge of the shifter bracket on the side of the driveling support assembly and the brake pipe
retainer on the wall of the driveline tunnel.
54. SLOWLY lower the driveline, while simultaneously adjusting the angle of tilt, and observe the relationship between the top rear of the
differential and the lowest part of the rear compartment panel floor (the center storage compartment between the frame rails); the differential
should not be lowered more than approximately EVEN with the specified body point of reference. (The engine positive crankcase ventilation
(PCV) pipes which route along the rear of the engine intake manifold will likely contact the dash panel.)
55. Release the wiring harness from the harness retainer along the top of the transmission.
56. Check to be sure that the wiring harness is free from the driveline being removed.
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 10
57. Using a block of wood to protect the engine oil pan, place a straight jack under the rear of the engine oil pan to support the engine from stressing
the composite dash panel.
58. Remove the five driveline support assembly to engine flywheel housing bolts.
59. Carefully bend the wiring harness bracket away from the driveline toward the driveline tunnel wall in order to make a clear removal path for the
driveline.
Important: The aid of an assistant will be necessary for the remaining steps.
60. Have an assistant insert a flat bladed screwdriver, or similar tool, between the edge of the driveline support assembly and the engine flywheel
housing, then begin to pry the driveline loose from the engine.
61. Have an assistant guide the front of the driveline during the removal of the driveline from the vehicle.
62. SLOWLY lower the driveline, while simultaneously adjusting the angle of tilt and pulling the driveline away from the engine UNTIL the
propeller input shaft at the front of the driveline support assembly just clears the engine flywheel housing.
63. SLOWLY lower the driveline completely out of the vehicle.
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 11
64. Position the chainfall, or equivalent, of a lift device in a way which will protect the rear exhaust hangers located on the driveline support
assembly.
65. Using the lift device, raise the driveline to relieve the weight from the transmission jack.
66. Disconnect the J 42055 from the transmission jack ONLY; the J 42055 will provide stability to the driveline components while working on a
bench.
67. Position the driveline on a workbench with the lift device still attached.
68. Support the driveline support assembly and the differential for additional balance.
69. Remove the lift device from the driveline.
70. Remove the differential to transmission bolts and nuts.
71. SLOWLY slide the differential from the transmission.
Installation Procedure
Notice: When tilting down the rear of the driveline, insert a putty knife or similar tool between the shift control bracket on the driveline support
assembly and the brake pipe retainer on the driveline tunnel wall to prevent damage.
Notice: Ensure that the clutch hydraulic hoses are positioned away from nearby vehicle components or vehicle damage may result.
^ Tools Required
^ J 42055 Transmission Support Fixture
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 12
1. SLOWLY slide the differential to the transmission.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the differential to transmission bolts and nuts.
^ Tighten the differential to transmission bolts and nuts to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
3. Loosely install a rubber band onto the transmission shift rod and position just behind the shift rod clamp. (The rubber band will be used to aid in
installing the shift control assembly after the driveling has been installed.)
4. Using a piece of masking tape, or similar tape which can be easily broken, affix the transmission shift rod to the driveline support assembly and
position the rod just to the outside of the mounting boss used for the shift control. (The tape is intended to keep the shift rod in position to aid in
shift control installation after the driveling has been installed.)
5. Position the chainfall, or equivalent, of a lift device in a way which will protect the rear exhaust hangers located on the driveline support
assembly.
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI 13
Important: The aid of an assistant will be necessary for the following steps until the driveline is installed into the vehicle.
6. Using the lift device, raise the driveline off the workbench and position the driveline with the 42055 onto a transmission jack.
7. Connect the J 42055 to the transmission jack.
8. Remove the lift device from the driveline.
9. Position the driveline under the vehicle.
10. Begin to raise the driveline at the approximate angle used during removal.
11. Position the wiring harness along the driveline support assembly and LOOSELY install the harness into the harness retaining slots.
12. Have an assistant guide the front of the driveline so the propeller input shaft is just to the rear of the engine flywheel housing, then raise the
driveline to the PROPER HEIGHT and the PROPER ANGLE to install to the engine.
13. Have an assistant begin to insert the propeller input shaft into the clutch driven plate hub while maintaining the proper angle of the driveline; if
necessary, use a screwdriver to rotate the shaft slightly to bring the splines into alignment.
14. Insert a putty knife, or similar tool, between the edge of the shifter bracket on the side of the driveline support assembly and the brake pipe
retainer on the wall of the driveline tunnel.
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 14
15. SLOWLY seat the driveline to the engine flywheel housing while maintaining the proper angle of the driveline.
16. Reposition the wiring harness bracket from near the driveline tunnel wall to align with the appropriate driveline support assembly bolt hole.
17. Install the five driveline support assembly to engine flywheel housing bolts.
^ Tighten the driveline support assembly to engine flywheel housing bolts to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
18. Install the wiring harness to the wiring harness retainer along the top of the transmission.
19. SLOWLY raise the driveline to approximately 5 cm (2 inch) BELOW the final installed height.
20. Connect the transmission fluid temperature sensor electrical connector, if equipped.
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 15
21. Connect the gear select (skip shift) solenoid electrical connector.
22. Connect the reverse lockout solenoid electrical connector.
23. Connect the backup lamp switch electrical connector.
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 16
24. Connect the wiring harness clip to the top of the differential.
25. Connect the wiring harness retainer to the stud at the differential rear cover.
26. Connect the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) electrical connector.
27. Slowly raise the driveline to final installation height.
28. Remove the putty knife, if still in position.
29. Remove the jack which supported the rear of the engine.
30. Remove the tie-off retainers from the axle shafts.
31. CAREFULLY align and seat the axle shafts to the differential.
32. Install the transaxle mount with bracket to the differential.
33. Install the transaxle mount bracket to differential bolts.
^ Tighten the transaxle mount bracket to differential bolts to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 17
34. With the aid of an assistant, begin to raise the rear suspension crossmember (still firmly attached to a transmission jack) to the vehicle frame rails.
35. Guide the rear suspension crossmember alignment pins into the alignment holes in the vehicle frame rails, and guide the transaxle mount studs
into the mounting holes in the crossmember, then raise the crossmember to seat to the frame rails.
36. Using ONLY HAND TOOLS, install NEW rear suspension crossmember mounting nuts.
^ Tighten the rear suspension crossmember mounting nuts to 110 Nm (81 ft. lbs.).
37. Remove the transmission jack from the rear suspension crossmember.
38. Release the J 42055 from the transmission, then remove the J 42055 and transmission jack.
39. Install the transaxle mount to rear suspension crossmember nuts.
^ Tighten the transaxle mount to rear suspension crossmember nuts to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
40. Install the differential to transmission lower nut.
^ Tighten the differential to transmission lower nut to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 18
41. Connect the wiring harness and brake pipe clip retainers to the rear suspension crossmember.
42. Support the lower control arm with a straight jack.
43. Connect the lower ball joint to the suspension knuckle. Refer to Knuckle Replacement in Steering and Suspension.
44. Install the shock absorber lower mounting bolt.
^ Tighten the rear shock absorber lower mounting bolt to 220 Nm (162 ft. lbs.).
45. Connect the outer tie rod end to the suspension knuckle. Refer to Tie Rod Replacement (Suspension Link) in Steering and Suspension.
46. Remove the straight jack from the suspension control arm.
47. Repeat steps 41 through 45 for the other side of the vehicle.
48. Install the rear transverse spring. Refer to Rear Transverse Spring Replacement in Steering and Suspension.
49. Carefully pull the wiring harness down into the L-shaped brackets along the driveline support assembly, align the harness retainer (locator) (1) to
the hole in the forward bracket, then secure in place.
Important: DO NOT rely on an audible click or a visual verification of the clutch hydraulic hose quick connect fitting connection.
50. Connect the clutch actuator cylinder hose to the clutch master cylinder hose. Push together the clutch hydraulic hose quick connect fittings, then
pull back on the fittings to verify engagement.
51. Check the clutch hydraulic hoses for twists or kinks.
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 19
52. Install the clutch actuator cylinder hose to the hose retaining clip (at the rear of the engine).
53. Install the driveline tunnel closeout panel. Refer to Driveline Tunnel Closeout Panel Replacement. Remove the tie-off retainers from the muffler
assemblies.
55. Install the exhaust intermediate pipe. Refer to Intermediate Pipe Replacement in Exhaust System.
56. Install the rear tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
57. Lower the vehicle.
58. Connect the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal.
59. Install the clutch master cylinder pushrod retainer.
60. Install the I/P lower insulator panel - LH. Refer to Closeout/Insulator Panel Replacement - IP Lower (LH) in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators.
61. Grasp the transmission shift rod and pull up to break the masking tape installed earlier to maintain position during installation.
62. Stretch the rubber band, while still installed onto the transmission shift rod, over the rear stud on top of the driveline tunnel to aid in shift control
installation.
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 20
63. Install the shift control assembly. Refer to Shift Control Assembly Replacement.
64. Break and remove the rubber band.
65. Install the shift control closeout boot. Check that the closeout boot fully seats to the shift control lever seal and the base of the shift control
assembly (1).
66. Install the shift control closeout boot retaining nuts.
^ Tighten the shift control closeout boot retaining nuts to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.).
67. Install the I/P accessory trim plate. Refer to Trim Plate Replacement - IP Accessory in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators.
68. Install the shift control boot over the shift control lever.
69. Align the shift control boot to the I/P accessory trim plate opening, then press to lock the boot retaining tabs.
70. Adjust the shape of the boot for appearance, if necessary.
1999 Chevrolet Corvette V8-350 5.7L VIN G SFI Page 21
71. Screw the shift control **** onto the shift control lever until the **** bottoms out.
72. Unscrew the shift control **** just enough to align the retainer slot with the slot on the shift control lever.
73. Install the shift control **** retainer (1) into the slots and seat fully.
74. Install the shift control **** button.
75. Install the console. Refer to Console Replacement in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators.
76. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the negative battery cable bolt to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.).
77. Program the transmitters. Refer to Transmitter Programming/Synchronization in Accessories and Optional Equipment.
78. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system. Refer to Hydraulic Clutch Bleeding.
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 07:57 AM
  #33  
Pwrtrip75's Avatar
Pwrtrip75
Thread Starter
Racer
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 380
Likes: 1
From: Janesville Wisconsin
Default

thats 21 pages just on trans removal, and a pic on almost every step.
I cant copy and paste the images. And I took out all the copywrite name stuff. Compare it to your Helms manual and see if its much difference. I never looked at a Helms manual, and this stuff is all free so im probably not going to buy one.
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 03:24 PM
  #34  
LightFighter_GXP's Avatar
LightFighter_GXP
Pro
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 723
Likes: 0
From: MOTOWN / Fort Dix NJ MI
Default

Originally Posted by VIPERRACING
SOUNDS LIKE YOUR SO SMART......WHY WOULD YOU NEED ANY INFO FROM THIS BOARD IF YOU KNOW IT ALL. AFTER YOU FIGURE IT OUT LET US KNOW.
got to love that
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 04:03 PM
  #35  
Pwrtrip75's Avatar
Pwrtrip75
Thread Starter
Racer
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 380
Likes: 1
From: Janesville Wisconsin
Default

Maybe when something goes wrong I should just get a different vette?
Im surprised there isnt a writeup on how to put gas in your car on this board, but im sure the majority of you send it off to have that done also.

All i asked for was info, I did some hunting around and found it.
No reason to be snob nose bitches about everything.
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