Starting Problem?????
Almost got stranded at lunch. Turned the key, heard the click and nothing. I would not turn over or even sound like it wanted to try. Did it again and again etc.... I looked at the volt meter on the dash and when I turned the key to engage the starter you could see the volt meter drop as it feed current to the starter. Let is rest for a bit called the wife to take my co-worker back to work and call a tow truck. While on the phone with the dispatcher I tried on last time. Started instantly no hesitation at all. Drove it home and switched cars.
So I believe this to be an issue with the starter not the selenoid or the ignition switch or with vats. It defenitely appeared via the volt meter that current was being applied to the starter. I heard the selenoid engage but got nothing from the starter at all.
Next step, check your connections to the battery and starter.
There is an ignition relay inside the car that will click when you
turn the key, so don't rule out the starter solenoid offhand,
unless someone under the hood heard it click (or not).
You know the drill...
Almost got stranded at lunch. Turned the key, heard the click and nothing. I would not turn over or even sound like it wanted to try. Did it again and again etc.... I looked at the volt meter on the dash and when I turned the key to engage the starter you could see the volt meter drop as it feed current to the starter. Let is rest for a bit called the wife to take my co-worker back to work and call a tow truck. While on the phone with the dispatcher I tried on last time. Started instantly no hesitation at all. Drove it home and switched cars.
So I believe this to be an issue with the starter not the selenoid or the ignition switch or with vats. It defenitely appeared via the volt meter that current was being applied to the starter. I heard the selenoid engage but got nothing from the starter at all.
Been there done that. I had the exact same problem intermittingly. It ended up being my solenoid on the starter when the car was at operating temperature. Happened every couple of weeks.
Next time you have this problem check the following.
1)Battery is good?
2) Connections at battery and starter are tight and no corrosion
3) Push the clutch pedal in and turn the key. Do you hear the Theft Detterant Relay click in the passenger floorboard? If yes it should be fine. You can also test the relay it self. Hook a test light to the purple wire coming out of the TDR relay at turn the key. If it comes on then the security system is sending a signal to the starter.
4) Let clutch pedal out and turn the key to the start position and hold it there. Push the clutch all the way to the floor and release back up. You should hear the TDR click in the floorboard when you do this. This is testing the clutch pedal sensor that is behind the clutch. The car will not start unless it is fully pushed in.
5) Test the voltage going to the starter at the positive battery cable. Make sure you have over 12 volts when you turn the key. The voltage at the starter should be almost as much as the reading at the battery itself.
6) If all above and battery cables are still good then it is likely your solenoid on your starter.
If you are not getting the pull key and wait ten seconds(you will get it if you try to start to many times real fast) and all the above are fine your vats system should be fine.
There is a wiring schematic on the forum somewhere if you do a search or look in a service manual.
Good Luck!
Next time you have this problem check the following.
1)Battery is good?
2) Connections at battery and starter are tight and no corrosion
3) Push the clutch pedal in and turn the key. Do you hear the Theft Detterant Relay click in the passenger floorboard? If yes it should be fine. You can also test the relay it self. Hook a test light to the purple wire coming out of the TDR relay at turn the key. If it comes on then the security system is sending a signal to the starter.
4) Let clutch pedal out and turn the key to the start position and hold it there. Push the clutch all the way to the floor and release back up. You should hear the TDR click in the floorboard when you do this. This is testing the clutch pedal sensor that is behind the clutch. The car will not start unless it is fully pushed in.
5) Test the voltage going to the starter at the positive battery cable. Make sure you have over 12 volts when you turn the key. The voltage at the starter should be almost as much as the reading at the battery itself.
6) If all above and battery cables are still good then it is likely your solenoid on your starter.
If you are not getting the pull key and wait ten seconds(you will get it if you try to start to many times real fast) and all the above are fine your vats system should be fine.
There is a wiring schematic on the forum somewhere if you do a search or look in a service manual.
Good Luck!

In order to remove the starter, you will need to remove the H-Pipe exhaust (make sure to use PB Blaster on the bolts before you try so you don't break a bolt). With the labor to remove it, I would probably replace both the starter and solenoid at the same time. B/c you will need exhaust gaskets at least for the back connection, I reused my front ones since they are not just rubber.
You have a few options,
1) Take yours out and have a shop rebuild it
2) Buy a new one for 170 at Autozone, Advanced Auto
3) Buy a new one from gmpartsdirect.com, or from Gene, think it is gmpartshouse.com around low 200's
4) Buy a new one on ebay - saw several new ones with buy now prices of 100 bucks plus 10-15 for shipping. I cannot vouch for the quality though.
5)By a rebuilt from Autozone, Advanced Auto for 140-150
I would recommend to just put a new one in so you are less likely to have to do it again. That's what I did
I think my is the pedal sensor. It does it enough for me to think about it, but not enough for me to fix it yet.
For me, Id try the pedal sensor first because that is the easist to get to.











