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If the trans. is out, how much more work is it really to get the clutch out?
I talked to the mechanic already and he definetly wants more because of my headers. Didn't say how much. I assume he means a lot more, say at least 2-3 hours. I am just wondering how if that is a fair deal.
If the trans. is out, how much more work is it really to get the clutch out?
I talked to the mechanic already and he definetly wants more because of my headers. Didn't say how much. I assume he means a lot more, say at least 2-3 hours. I am just wondering how if that is a fair deal.
Thanks
Sounds fair to me, atleast 2 hours.. now saying that someone will chime in and say NO I can have them changed in 15 minutes or something.. people are faster and smarter on the internet... LoL.. in the real world it's a different story.. doing things right can take time...
-=Rick
The headers don't have to be completely removed to do the clutch, they just have to be taken loose and allowed to hang out of the way. That alone could take a couple hours depending on who is doing the work and how careful they are being...
The headers don't have to be completely removed to do the clutch, they just have to be taken loose and allowed to hang out of the way. That alone could take a couple hours depending on who is doing the work and how careful they are being...
We are talking book labor--would that mean another 3? What about after the headers and trans are out of the way, is there yet more??
Sounds fair to me, atleast 2 hours.. now saying that someone will chime in and say NO I can have them changed in 15 minutes or something.. people are faster and smarter on the internet... LoL.. in the real world it's a different story.. doing things right can take time...
-=Rick
The headers don't have to be completely removed to do the clutch, they just have to be taken loose and allowed to hang out of the way. That alone could take a couple hours depending on who is doing the work and how careful they are being...
The headers may not have to be completely removed but taking them loose is pretty much the same amount of work as removing them all together, also I don't know how many clutches you've done on cars with headers but loose headers are in the way just as much as completely installed headers especially trying to get the torque tube in/out and aligned.
How much is he charging to remove the trans, and is he pulling the torque tube with it?
$750 for the trans already. I am not too thrilled about spending yet more for the clutch, since there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it, ie, it was not slipping and it starts to grab 1/4-1/2 way off the floor, not all the way out.
But if the clutch was already out or very close, it would make sense to do that.
Based on feedback here, sounds like a no-go: clutch is a lot more work than the trans.
I guess it all boils down to how many miles are on the clutch and how you drive the car. If it's a fairly low mile clutch (around 50-60,000 miles) and you never or rarely track the car I would tell you not to worry about it but if you track the car it may be worth the extra money.
One other thing to note, when I pull a trans to do a clutch I pull the suspension, trans/reardiff and torque tube out in one piece, it takes alot less time then seperating everything piecemeal. So in your case the extra labor would pretty much cover the header removal/install then whatever the difference is between a trans r+r and a clutch r+r.
I guess it all boils down to how many miles are on the clutch and how you drive the car. If it's a fairly low mile clutch (around 50-60,000 miles) and you never or rarely track the car I would tell you not to worry about it but if you track the car it may be worth the extra money.
One other thing to note, when I pull a trans to do a clutch I pull the suspension, trans/reardiff and torque tube out in one piece, it takes alot less time then seperating everything piecemeal. So in your case the extra labor would pretty much cover the header removal/install then whatever the difference is between a trans r+r and a clutch r+r.
I guess it all boils down to how many miles are on the clutch and how you drive the car. If it's a fairly low mile clutch (around 50-60,000 miles) and you never or rarely track the car I would tell you not to worry about it but if you track the car it may be worth the extra money.
One other thing to note, when I pull a trans to do a clutch I pull the suspension, trans/reardiff and torque tube out in one piece, it takes alot less time then seperating everything piecemeal. So in your case the extra labor would pretty much cover the header removal/install then whatever the difference is between a trans r+r and a clutch r+r.
I agree about the mileage. That's what makes this tricky--I bought the car used with very low mileage (15k) but it has been drag raced, and I am not so sure about just how much of that was done. I was told not much but memory is a funny thing.
I have just about pulled the drive assembly from my '99 FRC for a new trans. I did the clutch about 15,000 miles ago - right now I am wishing I put in a new trans then . Since that time I put on headers. Only three hours more due to headers is a bargain. I am going to have to loosen them at the very least to get the torque tube free - removal may be required. I do not want to even think about lining everything back up again with the headers hanging loose.
Now I did look (am looking) at trimming the underpan rails to get the tube out.
I have just about pulled the drive assembly from my '99 FRC for a new trans. I did the clutch about 15,000 miles ago - right now I am wishing I put in a new trans then . Since that time I put on headers. Only three hours more due to headers is a bargain. I am going to have to loosen them at the very least to get the torque tube free - removal may be required. I do not want to even think about lining everything back up again with the headers hanging loose.
Now I did look (am looking) at trimming the underpan rails to get the tube out.
Not likely I will be putting headers on my ZO6!
If all you need to remove is the transmission then leave the torque tube alone, it does not need to come out in order to pull the transmission.
If all you need to remove is the transmission then leave the torque tube alone, it does not need to come out in order to pull the transmission.
Too late - I also am putting in the LGM TT bushing on the TT. I will probably go ahead and pull the clutch to see how it is doing and put in a another new pilot bearing since I am in there .....
It has sure made it easy to put in the rear VBP bushings...
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