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Need help with hurst T handle

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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 09:32 PM
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Default Need help with hurst T handle

Im wanting to put a hurst T handle on my car,but they dont come in the 9/16 x 18 threads. I thought i would get one, fill the hole with JB weld,then drill and tap for the corvette threads. This may be a dumb question, but what size hole would i drill before tapping,would it be a 9/16? Ive never done this before so i could use some advice. Thanks Guys
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 06:19 AM
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ttt
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 07:24 AM
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I don't have an answer to your question. However, I have used 'T' handles on the corvette shifters and really hated it. Made shifting very difficult. The 'T' handles places to much of the directional force of the shift on the top of the shaft making shifting difficult and awkward.

Just my thoughts from experience before you go throught all the trouble.......
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 08:10 AM
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Coarse Pitch
9/16-12 UNC
Tap Drill: 31/64

Fine Pitch
9/16-18 UNF
Tap Drill: 33/64


http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 08:34 AM
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I would not use JB Weld in this application. You put a lot of force on a shift ****.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Quick Silver Z
Coarse Pitch
9/16-12 UNC
Tap Drill: 31/64

Fine Pitch
9/16-18 UNF
Tap Drill: 33/64


http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm
Thanks, Quick Silver.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 04:28 PM
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The original hole/thread pitch on the HURST T-handle **** is probably 3/8-16" unless drilled out during its lifetime (if used). Why would you need to fill the hole and drill a larger 9/16-18" hole/thread pitch?
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 06:08 PM
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I just had mine drilled out by the chassis shop that did my roll bar.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by hotwheels57
The original hole/thread pitch on the HURST T-handle **** is probably 3/8-16" unless drilled out during its lifetime (if used). Why would you need to fill the hole and drill a larger 9/16-18" hole/thread pitch?
Well,good point. I dont know why i thought the hole would have to be filled and redrilled.It sure would be easier to just make the hole bigger.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 10:36 PM
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The only issue I could see if that the threads on the KIRBAN are long and the amount of threads inside the HURST T-handle might not be able to accept all of the threaded lever. Some of the threaded lever might show, which could be covered with the boot or cut off to the desired length you had in mind. You'll need a bottom tap to cut the 9/16-18" to full depth.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by hotwheels57
The only issue I could see if that the threads on the KIRBAN are long and the amount of threads inside the HURST T-handle might not be able to accept all of the threaded lever. Some of the threaded lever might show, which could be covered with the boot or cut off to the desired length you had in mind. You'll need a bottom tap to cut the 9/16-18" to full depth.
What is the difference between a regular tap and a bottom tap? Wheres the beat place to buy taps at?
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 10:46 AM
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I'm not a machinist so I might not be the best source of information on this. It's my understanding that a bottom tap will cut the threads all the way to the bottom of the hole. A regular tap is a little tapered at the tip and will stop short of the bottom.
I use MCMASTER-CARR for most of my fasteners and related hardware needs. Someone else might chime in with other sources.
I'd bet if you do an internet search on "bottom tap" or "taps and dies", you'd find other sources as well.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 11:04 AM
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Exactly right. A regular tap is pointed on the end so it is easier to start in an untapped hole. The bottom tap is squared off on the end to cut threads all the way to the bottom of the hole.
By the way, if you don't think you will have enough metal to drill and tap the American thread handle, or cannot find one, Hurst also sells a handle with metric threads where the hole is smaller and for sure there is plenty of metal to just drill and tap the hole without filling.

The threads will be a little long, but remember, the Hurst **** also uses a locknut to align the ****. Even so, you will probably want to cut some of the threads off the stock shifter shaft to make it look right.

Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Apr 21, 2007 at 11:09 AM.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by TEXHAWK0
Exactly right. A regular tap is pointed on the end so it is easier to start in an untapped hole. The bottom tap is squared off on the end to cut threads all the way to the bottom of the hole.
By the way, if you don't think you will have enough metal to drill and tap the American thread handle, or cannot find one, Hurst also sells a handle with metric threads where the hole is smaller and for sure there is plenty of metal to just drill and tap the hole without filling.

The threads will be a little long, but remember, the Hurst **** also uses a locknut to align the ****. Even so, you will probably want to cut some of the threads off the stock shifter shaft to make it look right.
Im already using the hurst round ****,so i have cut about a half inch of the threads off the handle already. Thats a good idea of buying the smaller one so there will be enough material to work with.
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