When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
First time ever doing my own plugs. Took me an hour and 15 minutes. About 20 minutes of that had to be gapping the plugs and applying anti-seize to the threads.
All I can say is that the rear-most plug on the drivers side...is that #7 or #8? Is a ROYAL PAIN in the ****! All the other plugs are pretty straightforward, but that rear one....WOW.
So, I am now running a set of Taylor Vertex 8MM wires and NGK TR55's.
The car is idling nice and smoothly, and pulls nicely, so I am assuming I did SOMETHING right! LOL
Just did my plugs and wires a couple weeks ago....YA' WHAT A PAIN that was. Didn't think I would ever get that rear plug wire to snap onto the coil. A couple small cuts and a few bad words and it all works fine!
I had a '94 Z28 and never did the plugs. The mechanics I had do the changes had NOTHING but FOUL words during MOST of the plug swap.
Barring plug #7, the rest of the them were pretty simple.
The old plugs were a wee bit out of gap. I'd venture to say they were upwards of .070 One of them was even close to .090!!
iOverall the plugs were FAIRLY clean, a bit of carbon buildup on them, but I'd say that was normal or minimal. On a couple of the plugs there was a slight reddish discolorization on the white center core (??) where the electrode protudes from. I know this can be evidence of Octane boosters, which I do NOT use. It may be something that is added to our 'export' gas quality...
Since I have switched away from Platinum, I intend on making this a regular occurance. The car currently has 15,000 miles on her, so at 30,000 we'll take a peek at it again.
I'm no cylinder # expert. I seem to recall it starts at the front left, then goes front right and works itself backwards...which would make the NASTY plug, plug #7.
Id recommend Magnecor wires. I've had Taylors and while they work fine, I like the magnecors technology and facotry plug boot they use on the plug side. Keeps the wire from ripping out of the boot when removing. Plus you can use the factory metal heat shields.
If anyone wants to attempt a plug wire change. see my install with pics on my web site.
I changed my plugs and wires too on Saturday morning. I went with the MSD & TR55's this time. Last time it was the Magnacor and Bosch +4's. This time it went smooth... I guess because I knew what I was up against and had a good mindset.
If you loosen the air injection clamp #7 is much easier.
If you take the vacuum line out of the brake booster, REMEMBER to put it back. This is very critical. I found out the hardway but luckily I was in a parking lot and able to use my hand brake. :D
Guys like us with Long tubes just need to use a bigger hammer while installing Plugs & Wires. :) BTW, I am picking up my rotors tonight at Fedex and made an appointment with the dealership for repairs to my sick car. :cry
Although worlds easier than the LS1 F-body I was still a little frustrated doing the drivers side - took about 30 minutes. I'm tempted to pull and block off the air pump system to make it easier. :D
If you loosen the air injection clamp #7 is much easier.
If you take the vacuum line out of the brake booster, REMEMBER to put it back. This is very critical. I found out the hardway but luckily I was in a parking lot and able to use my hand brake. :D