luch90

i didnt have any trouble with my oil pump o ring. some people say you have to lower the pan to remove the bolt but i had no troubles. my total job took me about 12 hours at the shop. but I have 4 lifts and all necessary tools. plus its what I do for a living. I will definitely post results once i am tuned

kilrb

Did you have air tools? Ah, what I would have given for air tools when I was working on some of this stuff...

The problem I had with the O-ring was, I put it into the oil pump, instead of on the pickup tube. The instructions clearly state that you are supposed to put it on the pickup tube, but I brain-farted. Because I pulled it out of the old oil pump, my brain went on auto-pilot, and I put it into the new oil pump. The result was shredsville.

kilrb

Billdog350 thought it would be interesting to copmare an overlay of my dyno graph and his. He has similar supporting mods with Stage 1 LS6 heads and a 228/232 on a 112LSA + 4. It's interesting how similar our results were with two different cams. I'm guessing my heads might flow a tad better, making up for my smaller cam, but that's just a stab in the dark. I'm really surprised our curves are so close; I would have thought I'd have a better low-end, and he'd have more up top...

04cad

luch90

yea I had air tools. that saves a ton of time

SLPRC5

Came across your thread on your install of H/C.
You did an awesome job.
How are things with it now? How is the sewing machine sound after the H/C install?
That is my biggest complaint, the valve train sound sux..
GREAT JOB

Quaternion

Hi Kilrb,

While we have your attention, I was also wondering if you could answer the following:

1) Do you think the car "shake" you described would be present, if you ran that TSP224R on a 114 vs your 112?

2) Can you let out the clutch and cruise along near idle (850rpm-1000rpm) in traffic, without the car going into a bucking/surging behavior? I love this about my bone stock EB 2002 Z06, compared to my old 1991 Heads/Cam/Intake/Longtube/4.10 Mustang.

Basically, I want the +30rwhp from the cam, but NO driveability problems. A little lope is just fine. Lots of people you can say it can be tuned out, but if you press them, they'll say, well yeah it does buck below 1200 rpm, but you can live/learn to live with it easily.

I really found the bucking not to be fun in daily stop and go traffic.

Thanks again for the input, and sorry to step on the other fellows "sewing machine" sound question.

kilrb

Thanks, man. I don't have as much lift as your Cheatr cam (I'm at .581 and you are over .600, right?). The sewing machine sound isn't that bad, really. Even with the hood up, it's not horribly louder than stock. Driving with the windows up and no radio, you can hear some ticking at lower speeds(but who ever does that anyway?), but it's not that loud. Also, I guess I'm getting more used to it, so I hardly notice it now.

kilrb

1. I imagine a 114 would probably take away most of that minor shake to my cam. It has 4 degrees less overlap, and should be a bit less lopey, and therefore, you would expect the idle to be somewhat smoother. I'm no expert, but as an educated layman, I would have to say yes to this question.

2. Yes, yes, and yes! I'm extremely happy with the low rpm characteristics of this cam. The ONLY thing I ever notice different from stock is a lack of torque at idle. If you try to move from idle up a hill, you can sort of tell that you have to be a little more delicate on the clutch than when it was stock. It's like it has a little less 700rpm torque, so it's a bit (and by that, I mean not much) easier to stall going up a hill from idle. You get used to it. But at 800rpm's and above, you can just let it pull in gear fine. No surging. That is, unless you let your clutch out really abruptly and get that surging that mostly comes from your foot bopping on and off the throttle from the surging of the car due to the clutch being let off too fast. But the car will definitely pull itself around at 800rpm just fine with NO bucking. With the exception of the minor off-idle difference, which is only noticeable up a hill, it's like stock.

The 114 might be a good choice for you. It will put a ding in your low-end, and might cost a few ponies up top, but the high end probably wouldn't be noticeably different than a 112. I think you'll see it most below 4,500rpm. Here's a pic of a TR224 on a 112 vs the same on a 114. If you want that smoothness, I'd say the 114 is a pretty good alternative...

Billdog350

Here's my before and after actual dyno chart for those who want to see the 228/232 (similar to G5X1).



Kilrb, thanks for overlaying that, pretty interesting how somewhat different setups can produce very similar results. How many miles are on your motor? I was at 120k when I dynoed that, I'm pretty confident I'm getting serious ring flutter at high rpm so my "peak" isn't as high as many people think it should have been. I start blowing black/blue smoke above 5500rpm...but its not fuel.

kilrb

I had 52,000 or so on the clock when I swapped out the heads/cam.

madmatt9471

Absoloutly awesome!

You did a nice job and the fruits of your labor are seen!

Is your Vette a MN6 or A4? Which gears?

Thanks,Matt

kilrb

Thanks buddy. I'm running an MN6 in an FRC. The gears are stock 3.42's. 400 at the wheel is as nice as I'd dreamed it would be. Now I'm thinking about adding a 100 shot of nitrous so I won't be in as much trouble the next time I run into that pesky Procharged Z06 with 515 at the wheel...

madmatt9471

WOW! I should have my final numbers too this week! I've been held up by my tranny and it's time to get the final numbers now that it is dialed in!

Auto's take tuning too! and mine had some hangups popping out of the Lock-Up feature! Fixed now!

Thanks,Matt