Clutch adjustment question -Is this complicated?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 191
From: Vienna VA
Clutch adjustment question -Is this complicated?
I have ordered the service manuals for my 99 MN6 coupe, but haven't received them yet. I was wondering how complicated it is to adjust the clutch. I'd like to have it engage a little further from the floor. Obviously I'm not a mechanic, but I can do some work on it as long as I don't have to tear apart too much and can do the work with the car on some jack stands. Is this something that is better done by a Corvette service center? Thanks.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,088
Likes: 2
From: tampa florida
Might be time for a change? I was shocked after 68 K miles how paper thin the remining material was on mine. I was on borrowed time.
Go ahead and do the hydraulics while your at it and add a remote bleeder too if you decide get it fixed.
Good Luck
Brad
Go ahead and do the hydraulics while your at it and add a remote bleeder too if you decide get it fixed.
Good Luck
Brad
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 191
From: Vienna VA
Thanks for the replies. I have about 53K on my car right now. I guess I'll live with it the way it is. It's not that bad, but I thought I would do some adjustment if it was possible.
Resident moron
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,746
Likes: 20
From: Assachusetts
It's not adjustable, however if you were to flush your clutch fluid with some fresh stuff, it would probably engage a bit higher off the floor. You've probably got some water in the hydraulics at this point, which doesn't compress as well as hydraulic fluid (brake/clutch fluid). This means the pedal has to travel further to fully release the clutch, making it dis/engage closer to the floor.
Worth a shot, it's a bit of work but it's about your only choice - other than buying an adjustable MC (which is a decent amount of $$ and even more work).
Dope
Worth a shot, it's a bit of work but it's about your only choice - other than buying an adjustable MC (which is a decent amount of $$ and even more work).
Dope
Pro
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 718
Likes: 1
From: barrie ontario
The service manual does describe a procedure for adjusting the pressure plate on and off the car.....
Not sure what this would do and if it would help your situation but it might be worth investigating a little.
Hopefully someone on here will be able to help with a little more info.
Not sure what this would do and if it would help your situation but it might be worth investigating a little.
Hopefully someone on here will be able to help with a little more info.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 25,889
Likes: 7
From: Virginia Beach
CI 3-5-6-7-8 Veteran
The pressure plate adjustment procedure is for adjusting the clampinf force of the clutch fingers prior to install. After install the clutch pressure plate is self adjusting. This adjustment does not control the release point, only how hard the pressure plate clamps.
On my Luk stage II I had to make sure it was adjusted to full clamp force before installing. If you don't have long tubes it can be done w/ a helper through the clutch inspection cover in the bell housing.
Flush the fluid and begin a regimin of swapping the fluid in the reservoir with fresh fluid using a syringe or a turkey baster... it will do wonders for your clutch pedal feel.
Personally I have a new clutch master w/ all my lines wrapped in header wrap and DEI cool tape (heat refelcting tape), the clutch return spring removed, the drill mod in the slave return line, ceramic coated headers, and ATE super blue fluid all to try and mitigate the skicky clutch issue inherent to a LUK designed clutch (oem mfg.)
On my Luk stage II I had to make sure it was adjusted to full clamp force before installing. If you don't have long tubes it can be done w/ a helper through the clutch inspection cover in the bell housing.
Flush the fluid and begin a regimin of swapping the fluid in the reservoir with fresh fluid using a syringe or a turkey baster... it will do wonders for your clutch pedal feel.
Personally I have a new clutch master w/ all my lines wrapped in header wrap and DEI cool tape (heat refelcting tape), the clutch return spring removed, the drill mod in the slave return line, ceramic coated headers, and ATE super blue fluid all to try and mitigate the skicky clutch issue inherent to a LUK designed clutch (oem mfg.)
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Pro
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 718
Likes: 1
From: barrie ontario
The pressure plate adjustment procedure is for adjusting the clampinf force of the clutch fingers prior to install. After install the clutch pressure plate is self adjusting. This adjustment does not control the release point, only how hard the pressure plate clamps.
On my Luk stage II I had to make sure it was adjusted to full clamp force before installing. If you don't have long tubes it can be done w/ a helper through the clutch inspection cover in the bell housing.
Flush the fluid and begin a regimin of swapping the fluid in the reservoir with fresh fluid using a syringe or a turkey baster... it will do wonders for your clutch pedal feel.
Personally I have a new clutch master w/ all my lines wrapped in header wrap and DEI cool tape (heat refelcting tape), the clutch return spring removed, the drill mod in the slave return line, ceramic coated headers, and ATE super blue fluid all to try and mitigate the skicky clutch issue inherent to a LUK designed clutch (oem mfg.)
On my Luk stage II I had to make sure it was adjusted to full clamp force before installing. If you don't have long tubes it can be done w/ a helper through the clutch inspection cover in the bell housing.
Flush the fluid and begin a regimin of swapping the fluid in the reservoir with fresh fluid using a syringe or a turkey baster... it will do wonders for your clutch pedal feel.
Personally I have a new clutch master w/ all my lines wrapped in header wrap and DEI cool tape (heat refelcting tape), the clutch return spring removed, the drill mod in the slave return line, ceramic coated headers, and ATE super blue fluid all to try and mitigate the skicky clutch issue inherent to a LUK designed clutch (oem mfg.)
Thanks for the explanation
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
Just becareful not to over-adjust it and damage the fingers on pressure plate by pushing them into far.Might want to think about a clutch stop.
Last edited by ajg1915; Apr 24, 2007 at 06:16 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
The pressure plate adjustment procedure is for adjusting the clampinf force of the clutch fingers prior to install. After install the clutch pressure plate is self adjusting. This adjustment does not control the release point, only how hard the pressure plate clamps.
On my Luk stage II I had to make sure it was adjusted to full clamp force before installing. If you don't have long tubes it can be done w/ a helper through the clutch inspection cover in the bell housing.
Flush the fluid and begin a regimin of swapping the fluid in the reservoir with fresh fluid using a syringe or a turkey baster... it will do wonders for your clutch pedal feel.
Personally I have a new clutch master w/ all my lines wrapped in header wrap and DEI cool tape (heat refelcting tape), the clutch return spring removed, the drill mod in the slave return line, ceramic coated headers, and ATE super blue fluid all to try and mitigate the skicky clutch issue inherent to a LUK designed clutch (oem mfg.)
On my Luk stage II I had to make sure it was adjusted to full clamp force before installing. If you don't have long tubes it can be done w/ a helper through the clutch inspection cover in the bell housing.
Flush the fluid and begin a regimin of swapping the fluid in the reservoir with fresh fluid using a syringe or a turkey baster... it will do wonders for your clutch pedal feel.
Personally I have a new clutch master w/ all my lines wrapped in header wrap and DEI cool tape (heat refelcting tape), the clutch return spring removed, the drill mod in the slave return line, ceramic coated headers, and ATE super blue fluid all to try and mitigate the skicky clutch issue inherent to a LUK designed clutch (oem mfg.)
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 25,889
Likes: 7
From: Virginia Beach
CI 3-5-6-7-8 Veteran
ECS makes them for CC and I have on on my work bench right now 
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 479
Likes: 2
From: Hollywood Maryland
Flush your Hydraulics first, change fluid
When you get your manuals or go to Tech Tips on the forum, do the clutch hydraulics flush procedure and put in Synthetic DOT4 brake fluid. It has a higher boiling point than DOT 3 and can handle the high temperatures better than DOT 3 your clutch hydraulics undergo. If you are not comfortable with flushing your hydraulics, then do the 'poor mans' flush. Take the cap off of the clutch master cylinder, using a turkey baster remove the fluid in the resivoir making sure you don't spill any fluid it'll eat paint, wipe clean and refill w/DOT 4 synthetic brake fluid. Repeat this each day of driving for a week or so, you should see improvement providing nothing is mechanically bad. I did this and had noticible improvement. Cost me $6.00 for Valvoline Synthetic DOT 4 fluid.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,979
Likes: 31
From: Wichita KS
When you get your manuals or go to Tech Tips on the forum, do the clutch hydraulics flush procedure and put in Synthetic DOT4 brake fluid. It has a higher boiling point than DOT 3 and can handle the high temperatures better than DOT 3 your clutch hydraulics undergo. If you are not comfortable with flushing your hydraulics, then do the 'poor mans' flush. Take the cap off of the clutch master cylinder, using a turkey baster remove the fluid in the resivoir making sure you don't spill any fluid it'll eat paint, wipe clean and refill w/DOT 4 synthetic brake fluid. Repeat this each day of driving for a week or so, you should see improvement providing nothing is mechanically bad. I did this and had noticible improvement. Cost me $6.00 for Valvoline Synthetic DOT 4 fluid.
but luckily I had just washed my car and had a bucket of water right next to me so I threw it on there very fast and paints good. Do it.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 191
From: Vienna VA
When you get your manuals or go to Tech Tips on the forum, do the clutch hydraulics flush procedure and put in Synthetic DOT4 brake fluid. It has a higher boiling point than DOT 3 and can handle the high temperatures better than DOT 3 your clutch hydraulics undergo. If you are not comfortable with flushing your hydraulics, then do the 'poor mans' flush. Take the cap off of the clutch master cylinder, using a turkey baster remove the fluid in the resivoir making sure you don't spill any fluid it'll eat paint, wipe clean and refill w/DOT 4 synthetic brake fluid. Repeat this each day of driving for a week or so, you should see improvement providing nothing is mechanically bad. I did this and had noticible improvement. Cost me $6.00 for Valvoline Synthetic DOT 4 fluid.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Tnx.
