I got a set from LAPD. I just noticed 2 are about 1.5-2 inches longer than the other 2. No instructions. Holding them alongside the stock lines (still on the car - jacked up so suspension is mostly unloaded) it looks like the longer one would hit the lower control arm it it were on the front. And it is also longer than the rear line, although it does not look like it would hit anything there.

Anyone know for sure?

TIA...

 

Long lines go to the rear.

 

just did mine.

 

If I can put my hands on the box with my LAPD lines, I hope to put them on this week.
Any tips, pitfalls, etc to watch for?
Special tools?
Someone said go buy new copper washers - true?

 

bump for the day crew

 

Use new washers, and make sure you get all of the air out of the brake lines or you will get codes.

 

Thanks

 

If you don't already have them, this is a great time to put in Speed Bleeders. No special tools, but the clips holding the front hoses at the connection point to the solid line can be a bear to get off.

 

You have to put the right "twist" in the front lines, or they will rub on the inside of the wheel when you turn. Before you lower the car, turn the wheel all the way left, then right. Watch for any contact.

 

Im tight for time on this project.
Should Speed Bleeders be a locally available item or mail order only?

 

wow that dog doesn't look very friendly, nope nope not at all lol

 

these work?
http://www.autozone.com/R,NONAPP1631...ductDetail.htm

10mm - 1.0 x 33mm

 

More performance oriented shops might have them in stock. First set I bought was off the shelf at a San Diego shop.

-Steve

 

That is a regular one. This...
http://www.autozone.com/R,NONAPP1771...ductDetail.htm

Of course, if you have some sort of vacuum bleeder device the speed bleeders are not really needed. I like them since you can bleed the brakes easily at the track as well as at home.

 

Hi guys
had to do this just the other day,glad i went for long at the rear.
i found the new clips for the join hardline/to hose,were a pita, cracked one.used the oem clips in the end.also found i had to do up the fitting
h/line to hose,real tight.
i have a multi vac. i find that air suck`s past the bleed hose/nipple connection.or it will suck air into the threads of the nipple,and up into the tube,so looks like loads of air in the systerm.
i change my calipers to c6 z .and when i had done all the lines up etc
i just cracked open the nipples,took off the res .cap and let it bleed itself.i did get the mrs to help at the end,with a bit of up/down etc
(on the pedal that is). speed bleeders sound like a good tool.

 

not sure whats up with the Autozone links - they must change daily to prevent hot linking. ... go figure!

Nitro UK - thanks for the follow up -
So you like the multi vac, eh?

 

Anytime you guys have install questions don't hesitate to call we will be more than happy to help!
Dan

 

I installed the stainless braided hoses, on my 1999 C5 Coupe, about a month ago.

They came from LAPD with copper washers and there were no instructions so I put the longer ones on the front. The two short hoses were the same length as the four equal length stock hoses.

I installed the long front hoses with a twist to keep them close to the A arms.

The factory tightened the fitting on the steel line to the rubber hose so tight (to not leak???) that the flare was crushed over sized on three of the lines so that I couldn't get them to start to thread into the new stainless hoses. I checked the OD of the flare and one was 0.005" over sized and the other two were 0.003" over. I reduced the flare OD with a small file and no problem and no leaks. Also, no codes thrown with the stainless hoses.
I also installed the new EBC "Yellow stuff" street and track brake pads and Super Blue fluid.
The new yellow pads are fantastic, better than stock on the street with stock pad dust or less and no fade at VIR with track temperatures of 137*.

Cheers, Curt

 

Nitro UK - thanks for the follow up -
So you like the multi vac, eh?[/QUOTE]

Yes, and er no. like it is excellent at emptying the m/c reserviour.
sometimes on bleeding brakes.its a tidy way to keep the b/fluid from going all over the place.
ok so you hook up the clear tube to the b/nipple.attach it to the multi vac do a few hand pumps on the trigger,open the caliper b/nipple,and fluid and air rise inside the clear tube.do this a few times and on some cars i have used this tool on,the fluid comes through nice and clear no bubbles.
however like the other day,i had finished the install calipers /rotors,
and i opened up the nipples,after a few mins clear fluid came up the tube NO VAC AT THIS TIME. attach the m/vac ,give it a couple of pumps and i get air coming up the tube.
this is no way in the caliper.it is air being drawn into the bleed nipple threads and or between the nipple and clear hose.i have put zip ties on the hose/nipple connection which has sorted this out,
but sometimes the air then goes from the outside down the hreads,and back up the nipple.which then makes it look like you have air still in the caliper etc when you dont.
bottom line for the cost of this tool ,and all it can do its a great help.
if you have a helper the old way works well.if you dont the this and or the speed bleeders will get the job done im sure.
sorry guys meant to keep this short
happy braking

 

Yes, and er no. like it is excellent at emptying the m/c reserviour.
sometimes on bleeding brakes.its a tidy way to keep the b/fluid from going all over the place.

Trapped Air

Use a plastic hammer to tap on the calipers to break the air bubbles loose. I also use a Mighty Vac to get the majority of the air out but finish with old fashion way, pumping the pedal.

ATE Super Racing brake fluid comes in Blue and regular so you can see the color change when doing a system flush.

The Mighty Vac is great for the Brake Master Cylinder fluid change. I use the ATE Super here also.

Cheers, Curt