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I have the valvecovers off, just curious how I would check the pushrods. I'm worried that if I remove the lifters, I won't be able to compress the valvesprings to get it back down (I don't have alot of tools in my toolchest). Is that true? Does anyone have a procedure I can follow to get my pushrods out so I can check them?
I am by no means an expert on this but it strikes me the best way to do this would be to remove the intake manifold and visually inspect the pushrods instead of pulling them out. If your engine is not making clicking noises I wouldnt worry about it at all. Just my $.02.
From: 26 NM out the 304 radial of the ORD VOR Illinois
Re: Need help with checking pushrods (akw408)
Just loosen the nuts enough to allow the pushrods to slip out and be sure to count the number of turns that you loosen the nut ( A small breaker bar is good for counting). Remove the pushrods and roll them on a flat surface to check them. Do them one at a time so as not to get messed up. Put the pushrod back in and tighten the nuts the exact number of turns that you loosened them. I am thinking that the valves that are open will need to have the nut backed off more. Since they are self adjusting lifters, you only have to be within the range of the lifter. I am no expert, so someone correct this if I am wrong.
From: 26 NM out the 304 radial of the ORD VOR Illinois
Re: Need help with checking pushrods (gpflepsen)
You can remove the rocker arm, but the lifters will then need to be readjusted. Who has the procedure for that? It used to be with my old big block that you would tighten them down too tight until the range of the lifter was just exceeded (this was done while the engine was running---what an oily mess), and then the nut was backed off a specified number of turns. My above procedure is an effort to make removing the pushrods simple.
Re: Need help with checking pushrods (Supercharged)
Lifters are easy....I think it takes a 5/8 " socket, preassemble all so just snug (should be able to spin push rods with ease)..click key to barely turn motor till first intake & exhaust has one open (pushing down on valve) and then tighten the loose one till you can just spin. Then repeat for the next one back, etc till all are done. Repeat on other bank. When the intake or exhaust is open, the other valve for that cylinder is closed & the lifter is on the back side of the cam lobe, that is for a static adjustment. Then when all are done like that, I start the car with cardboard propped up to deflect oil that spray's from the rockers and one at a time I slowly lossen till it clack's loud...slowly re-tighten til it is quiet, then turn 1/4 turn at a time til 3/4 turn total...( go slow as the RPMs will fall & it might kill as the lifter bleeds off. Repeat with all. Some stop with the static adjustment and do just fine with that. With hydraulics it is usually ok, but I prefer the running method to make sure. :yesnod: Good Luck!
You might want to buy a set of oil deflectors to snap on the rocker arms while you adjust. Helps a lot to keep the mess to a minimum, unless your completely satisfied with the cardboard shield. The deflector sets probably cost less than 10 bucks......I think I gave $5 for mine but that was years ago.