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Old May 9, 2007 | 12:32 PM
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Default Shaved Heads

I am doing a port/polish job on a set of heads for my c5, and i am thinking of shaving the heads a little bit to get back some of the cc that am loosing from cleaning up the chamber. How will the fit be once i am done with this. What will have to be done to the intake to make it work. I am only talking about 20 thousads or so.
Thanks
Jason
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Old May 9, 2007 | 04:38 PM
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ttt
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Old May 10, 2007 | 08:59 AM
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ttt
Has anyone done this?
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Old May 10, 2007 | 09:47 AM
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Default gotta have em shaved

I was wondering the same thing...except I will probably shave anywhere from .040-.060 off...
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Old May 10, 2007 | 12:44 PM
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Default Shaved Heads

TSP 5.3 stage 2.5 shaved .030 great compression just watch that PVC with larger cams. Nice mod with some great gains in torque would do it again. Stick with stock head gaskets
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Old May 10, 2007 | 03:58 PM
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I just installed stock heads that were P&p and milled .060 along with g5x3 and all the other go along goodies. The only fitment issue I ran into was the intake manifold was a little tight, but i applied just a little pressure in a few spots and it popped in. bolted it down to spec and have not had any issues or problems with it so far.
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Old May 10, 2007 | 04:14 PM
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You will want to shave down the metal plugs on the bottom corners of the intake manifold. They will bottom out in the heads, according to my old friends at GM racing. The plastic ones are OK, but the metal ones should be trimmed off.
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Old May 10, 2007 | 04:16 PM
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Default milled heads

Heads milled to .060 with gx 3 did you fly cut the pistons?
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Old May 10, 2007 | 04:37 PM
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Yep, did it myself with LG's dummy head tool.
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Old May 10, 2007 | 05:42 PM
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How does it work and was the engine out while you did it?
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Old May 10, 2007 | 06:15 PM
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No, engine and pistons stay in the car. Its a ls1 head and a actual valve with a cutting edge welded on to it. The head gets mounted on with no gasket and the valve/cutting tool in place. Then a shop vac can get hooked up to the exhaust port to remove metal shavings. Using a cordless drill you drill into the piston, Very Very Very slowly. I took about .005 to .010 off per cut, then check depth with a dial caliper. LG told me you can go .080 into piston I only went .070 since I only took .060 off the head. I would do it again, it was scary at first but as long as your careful you cant screw up.
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Old May 11, 2007 | 08:33 AM
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JagTech,
For as little as i want to take off, will i need to cut int my pistons? Of course i will check my clearances when the time comes, but do you have any idea. That is nice little list of mods you have there, similar to what I want to do.
Jason

Last edited by Itallian33; May 11, 2007 at 08:38 AM.
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Old May 11, 2007 | 10:42 AM
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Good info...seems like you can get the depth exactly the same every time by using a shaft collar as a stop...mcmaster carr has em cheap.

When the time comes, I was just gonna post on LS1tech or this forum to see if someone has the Isky cutters for stock valves.
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Old May 11, 2007 | 12:05 PM
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This brings up an idea. when cleaning up the Chamber, it is a good idea to clean the area around the valve itself. Does anyone make a cutter that is basically a valve with a radius around the outside to make the propper exit radius? If not it would be easy to make if you could lap carbide on the end of the valve.
jason
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Old May 11, 2007 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Itallian33
JagTech,
For as little as i want to take off, will i need to cut int my pistons? Of course i will check my clearances when the time comes, but do you have any idea. That is nice little list of mods you have there, similar to what I want to do.
Jason
It all depends on the cam (how big) you have, so I dont know for sure. Call the cam company you are going to use, they should have a good idea if you will need to or not.
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