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Mini-tubbers Inside Please

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Old May 14, 2007 | 10:51 PM
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I'm finalizing my plans to run some CCW 505s in 19x10 and 19x13 with 345/30s out back. This is setup for a minitub. I'm not buying the kit from LPE, I'm having someone who's done the work before help me out. My question is, are the shock mods absolutely necessary?

Wheel specs are 19x13, 9.875" backspacing and a 73mm offset. The person I'm buying them from does not have the shock mods done, and is lowered on stock bolts without any rubbing/clearance issues.

I have a chance to buy the LPE shock hardware(relocation bracket and spacer) for 125+ship from a member, and am thinking this is a good way to play it safe. LPE does not sell the shock mods separate from the kit.

So, do you have the shock mods or not?
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Old May 15, 2007 | 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by SLO C5
I'm finalizing my plans to run some CCW 505s in 19x10 and 19x13 with 345/30s out back. This is setup for a minitub. I'm not buying the kit from LPE, I'm having someone who's done the work before help me out. My question is, are the shock mods absolutely necessary?

Wheel specs are 19x13, 9.875" backspacing and a 73mm offset. The person I'm buying them from does not have the shock mods done, and is lowered on stock bolts without any rubbing/clearance issues.

I have a chance to buy the LPE shock hardware(relocation bracket and spacer) for 125+ship from a member, and am thinking this is a good way to play it safe. LPE does not sell the shock mods separate from the kit.

So, do you have the shock mods or not?

I think it is more of a problem with someone running 18's instead of 19's.

Most problem are that the rim hits the suspension rear spring because the tires are move inboard. I would just check your clearances.
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Old May 15, 2007 | 09:35 AM
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You'll need the shock mods.
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Old May 15, 2007 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SLO C5
So, do you have the shock mods or not?
I run a +74mm 18 x 12 w/345/35/18 or 345/30/18 and do not have the shock mods. I am lowered and have no issues. The wheel barrel just touches the upper a-arm with the wheels off the ground when demounting wheels..........no issue for me though.
$125 is cheap insurance.............
here are the pics......



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Old May 15, 2007 | 03:04 PM
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I spoke with John at CCW about this earlier today. He said that the 19" wheel has more clearance than the 18", which makes sense. He also said that the wheel could hit the A-arm when the suspension is drooped down, but not during any type of driving.

But $125 is cheap insurance for sure.
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Old May 15, 2007 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by SLO C5
I spoke with John at CCW about this earlier today. He said that the 19" wheel has more clearance than the 18", which makes sense. He also said that the wheel could hit the A-arm when the suspension is drooped down, but not during any type of driving.
But $125 is cheap insurance for sure.
John P knows his business Picked his brain long ago.......Considering your offset for the 19".....they will not have any chance to touch for sure unless you are mid air.........by then this is the least of your issues
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Old May 15, 2007 | 10:49 PM
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I'm running that exact same setup, CCW 505 19x13 out back. I can tell you if you don't shorten the shocks the rims will hit the control arms HARD if you ever top out the suspension. There is no way I would run a setup that would allow the wheel to contact the control arms. Out here on the road we have it is nothing to top out the suspension on these cars. The first C5 I ever drove was a friends car and I had the entire car in the air in the first 5 miles! I shortened my shocks .700 and added .375 wheel spacers to get around .125 clearance between the back of the rear upper control arm and the lip of the wheel with the suspension hanging. The last thing I want to do is have the control arms peeling the chrome off these $5,000 rims!

Note: I do not know what offset John cut these wheels too, he never gave me that information, and I didn't ask at the time. I do plan on measuring that the next time I pull the wheels, as many people have asked that question.
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