I'm going to try to get rid of my P1416 code by cleaning the Air Injection check valve feeding the RH exhaust manifold (bank 2), but can't figure out how to remove the plastic hose clamps used in the system.

How you release these plastic clamps without breaking them? I didn't want to force them too much without knowing how they release.

Thanks for any info.

 

Use a small flat blade screwdriver to lift and release the teeth on the clamp, works sorta like a zip tie, squeeze together to re-install, good luck in getting to the bank 2 valve !! I replaced both, #2 requires the intake manifold to be removed, it can't be changed otherwise

 

Push one half of the clamp in one direction and the other half in the opposite direction. There's enough flex for it to release.

 

Thanks guys ... got the clamps to release with no problem. I'm going to try the carb cleaner + compressed air cleaning method first. Hopefully, it's just a dirty check valve. Others have had success with cleaning them first.

 

Let us know how the carb cleaner works for you. Most are using a penetrating lubricant I believe...

 

The carb cleaner may evaporate before it can do any good. A penetrating oil may be better. I had to go through the process three times on three different days with driving the car inbetween before my check engine light went off. Good luck

 

If you spray a lot of carb cleaner into the hose, then use some compressed air (set to low pressure of 20~25 psi) to push it down the system, it probably won't evaporate that fast. One thing that's good about carb cleaner is that it's safe for the catalytic converters and the O2 sensors ... not sure if WD-40 burning residue is good for those components or not. I think a few others on the board have used mainly carb cleaner backed up by some WD-40. Using WD-40, I'd be leery of using lots of it. [ http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...67&postcount=2 ]

If the check valve(s) are sticky due to carbon/exhaust soot, then it seems carb cleaner would do a better job of freeing up the valve.

BTW – if you don’t manually clear the P1416 code, then the “Check Engine” light will stay on until 3 consecutive self tests of the AIR system passes … so that could be why it took 3 days of driving for the light to clear.

 

Each time I went through the procees I cleared the code......it returned after driving for awhile. I used a product I found at a Marine Supply store "Corrosion Block" ..... worked for me.
Now I'm dealing with the 1214 code, cleaned the ground posts on both sides of the frame and the plugs.The code didn't reappear for a couple of days. I read in another post about a place in Florida that rebuilds ABS units better than new. Always something, but at 167,000 miles I really can't complain.

 

I used some carb cleaner to clean both check valves tonight. Pulled the AIR hose open at the splice next to the windshield washer fluid tank (no clamps there), and sprayed ALOT of carb cleaner down the hose. Then used compressed air at about 25 psi to blow the cleaner through the AIR hose system to both check valves. Repeated the process a couple more times, and probably used 1/3 or more of the can of carb cleaner. Blew air through the system for awhile after the last douching of the system to evaporate the carb cleaner before firing up the engine. Reconnected the AIR hose and fired it up. Had some funky exhaust smells until everything burned off inside the exhaust system. BTW - carb cleaner was CRC brand, and it says it's safe for O2 sensors and catalytic converters.

Drove the car a few different times and checked for P1416 after each drive. NO CODES found. Seems the carb cleaner cleaning method worked for now. I didn't use any WD-40, as I'm not sure what that might do to the O2 sensors and cats. I had pulled the AIR tube off of the check valve on the drivers side before cleaning the system, and noticed a slight oil residue on the inside of the tube. I think the valves let a little blow by go backward through them, and with time they get gunked up with exhaust residue, and the heat might make the residue even worse with time. Carb cleaner is good for cutting oily residue and carbon build up. Not sure if using WD-40 might end up causing more residue in the check valves due to heat. Sticking with straight carb cleaner seemed to work fine for me.