Vette Won't Lock All The Time!?!?
Thread Starter
Drifting


Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Legally Blonde
Cruise-In IV Veteran
When I lock my Vette (withe the key fob), the drivers side won't lock all the time. I was previously told that I may need a BCM. Is this the case and if so, what is a BCM and how does it get installed? Please help because this is driving me crazy!
Try replacing the battery in the key FOB first. They don't last forever.
If you have already replaced the battery recently, pull it out and clean the contacts in the FOB and the battery surfaces with a pencil eraser, then wipe with a dry cloth or paper towel. Try not to touch the contact surfaces with your fingers as you replace the battery, the oils and moisture will cause oxidation and poor contact after several months.
Also try your second key FOB, it that one works, then the car is probably not the problem. Always try the simple and less expensive parts or components first unless there is a specific test procedure that can absolutley identify the failed component. Would be a shame to replace an expensive BCM only to discover the FOB battery was weak.
If you have already replaced the battery recently, pull it out and clean the contacts in the FOB and the battery surfaces with a pencil eraser, then wipe with a dry cloth or paper towel. Try not to touch the contact surfaces with your fingers as you replace the battery, the oils and moisture will cause oxidation and poor contact after several months.
Also try your second key FOB, it that one works, then the car is probably not the problem. Always try the simple and less expensive parts or components first unless there is a specific test procedure that can absolutley identify the failed component. Would be a shame to replace an expensive BCM only to discover the FOB battery was weak.
If it is not in the FOB, it is most likely a relay in the door control module which is in the door. This is not the BCM. If the other functions on the remote work, this is most likely your problem. You can either replace the door control module or replace the relay. Search for other threads on this subject.
Thread Starter
Drifting


Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 0
From: Legally Blonde
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Try replacing the battery in the key FOB first. They don't last forever.
If you have already replaced the battery recently, pull it out and clean the contacts in the FOB and the battery surfaces with a pencil eraser, then wipe with a dry cloth or paper towel. Try not to touch the contact surfaces with your fingers as you replace the battery, the oils and moisture will cause oxidation and poor contact after several months.
Also try your second key FOB, it that one works, then the car is probably not the problem. Always try the simple and less expensive parts or components first unless there is a specific test procedure that can absolutley identify the failed component. Would be a shame to replace an expensive BCM only to discover the FOB battery was weak.
If you have already replaced the battery recently, pull it out and clean the contacts in the FOB and the battery surfaces with a pencil eraser, then wipe with a dry cloth or paper towel. Try not to touch the contact surfaces with your fingers as you replace the battery, the oils and moisture will cause oxidation and poor contact after several months.
Also try your second key FOB, it that one works, then the car is probably not the problem. Always try the simple and less expensive parts or components first unless there is a specific test procedure that can absolutley identify the failed component. Would be a shame to replace an expensive BCM only to discover the FOB battery was weak.
I don't think it's the key fob since it always locks my passenger door. I'm just having trouble with the driver's door. But I will pull out the battery and clean it. Thanks!
Thread Starter
Drifting


Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 0
From: Legally Blonde
Cruise-In IV Veteran
If it is not in the FOB, it is most likely a relay in the door control module which is in the door. This is not the BCM. If the other functions on the remote work, this is most likely your problem. You can either replace the door control module or replace the relay. Search for other threads on this subject.
Here's the link to repairing the door lock/ window module.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1606865
Probably under $10 including the shipping.
You can solder a new relay in the circuit board which will be way cheaper than taking it to the dealer.
The Digi-Key part number for the door relay is 255-1240-ND and you can find it at www.digikey.com.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1606865
Probably under $10 including the shipping.
You can solder a new relay in the circuit board which will be way cheaper than taking it to the dealer.
The Digi-Key part number for the door relay is 255-1240-ND and you can find it at www.digikey.com.
I had a similar problem with my car. I intermittantly lost all electrical function in the drivers door. Sometimes it would work fine other times completely dead.
I grabbed the accordian rubber thing that runs from the door to the frame and immediately it started working again.
Talked to my local tech about my symptoms and he stated it was most likely the wiring harness. I pulled the accordian thing off and inside there are two wire groups both with a connector on them. I took both apart and one connector had a small terminal that looked bent or did not appear able to produce a good contact with it's male counterpart. I pulled that connector out of the housing and bent it back as close to the others as possible so it would make better contact. So far the problem has not come back. It's only been a couple of days but, I am hopeful it is fixed.
I would look at that connector before replacing the door control module. They are quite expensive.
I grabbed the accordian rubber thing that runs from the door to the frame and immediately it started working again.
Talked to my local tech about my symptoms and he stated it was most likely the wiring harness. I pulled the accordian thing off and inside there are two wire groups both with a connector on them. I took both apart and one connector had a small terminal that looked bent or did not appear able to produce a good contact with it's male counterpart. I pulled that connector out of the housing and bent it back as close to the others as possible so it would make better contact. So far the problem has not come back. It's only been a couple of days but, I am hopeful it is fixed.
I would look at that connector before replacing the door control module. They are quite expensive.
I had the same problem. The drivers door wouldn't lock or unlock. Ordered the relays from DiGi-Key. They were $1.42. I ordered 6 just to be safe.The total was $14.34 shipping and tax.
Replacement was very easy. Just follow the inst in the post above. Just make sure you have a soldering iron that gets hot enough to melt the solder to take out the old ones. You also need a solder sucker. I used a 45 watt with a pencil point. It worked but I think a little more wattage like 75 would have worked better. Good luck
Bob
Replacement was very easy. Just follow the inst in the post above. Just make sure you have a soldering iron that gets hot enough to melt the solder to take out the old ones. You also need a solder sucker. I used a 45 watt with a pencil point. It worked but I think a little more wattage like 75 would have worked better. Good luck
Bob
Thread Starter
Drifting


Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 0
From: Legally Blonde
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Here's the link to repairing the door lock/ window module.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1606865
Probably under $10 including the shipping.
You can solder a new relay in the circuit board which will be way cheaper than taking it to the dealer.
The Digi-Key part number for the door relay is 255-1240-ND and you can find it at www.digikey.com.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1606865
Probably under $10 including the shipping.
You can solder a new relay in the circuit board which will be way cheaper than taking it to the dealer.
The Digi-Key part number for the door relay is 255-1240-ND and you can find it at www.digikey.com.
Thread Starter
Drifting


Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 0
From: Legally Blonde
Cruise-In IV Veteran
I had a similar problem with my car. I intermittantly lost all electrical function in the drivers door. Sometimes it would work fine other times completely dead.
I grabbed the accordian rubber thing that runs from the door to the frame and immediately it started working again.
Talked to my local tech about my symptoms and he stated it was most likely the wiring harness. I pulled the accordian thing off and inside there are two wire groups both with a connector on them. I took both apart and one connector had a small terminal that looked bent or did not appear able to produce a good contact with it's male counterpart. I pulled that connector out of the housing and bent it back as close to the others as possible so it would make better contact. So far the problem has not come back. It's only been a couple of days but, I am hopeful it is fixed.
I would look at that connector before replacing the door control module. They are quite expensive.
I grabbed the accordian rubber thing that runs from the door to the frame and immediately it started working again.
Talked to my local tech about my symptoms and he stated it was most likely the wiring harness. I pulled the accordian thing off and inside there are two wire groups both with a connector on them. I took both apart and one connector had a small terminal that looked bent or did not appear able to produce a good contact with it's male counterpart. I pulled that connector out of the housing and bent it back as close to the others as possible so it would make better contact. So far the problem has not come back. It's only been a couple of days but, I am hopeful it is fixed.
I would look at that connector before replacing the door control module. They are quite expensive.
Thread Starter
Drifting


Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 0
From: Legally Blonde
Cruise-In IV Veteran
I had the same problem. The drivers door wouldn't lock or unlock. Ordered the relays from DiGi-Key. They were $1.42. I ordered 6 just to be safe.The total was $14.34 shipping and tax.
Replacement was very easy. Just follow the inst in the post above. Just make sure you have a soldering iron that gets hot enough to melt the solder to take out the old ones. You also need a solder sucker. I used a 45 watt with a pencil point. It worked but I think a little more wattage like 75 would have worked better. Good luck
Bob
Replacement was very easy. Just follow the inst in the post above. Just make sure you have a soldering iron that gets hot enough to melt the solder to take out the old ones. You also need a solder sucker. I used a 45 watt with a pencil point. It worked but I think a little more wattage like 75 would have worked better. Good luck
BobIf it is not in the FOB, it is most likely a relay in the door control module which is in the door. This is not the BCM. If the other functions on the remote work, this is most likely your problem. You can either replace the door control module or replace the relay. Search for other threads on this subject.
I had same problem...stealership replaced it n/c under "good will policy"














