Anyone help me with my cam problem?!
If that's not an option for your brother (& he's in Dallas) have him visit Bobby at LG Motorsports. They have a good tuner there.
Matt
If that's not an option for your brother (& he's in Dallas) have him visit Bobby at LG Motorsports. They have a good tuner there.
Matt
Get it to a good shop.Charlie's mail order tune is probably better than many tuners.
Next thing you know they will be drilling holes in the throttle plate...
I tried doing my own tune, I even considered getting a dyno tune... I tried Charlie and don't regret it one bit. My car idles like a dream and I will get it to a dyno shortly to see what kind of power it's putting down. I honestly think investing in a copy of HPTuners and using Charlie is your best option.
Matt
Also if your going to buy HP Tuners, get a wide band and tune it yourself.
once you learn you wont need to rely on incompitant people again.
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Lets get back to basics, were the heads removed when the cam was installed?
If so was the ground wire reattached on the back of the drivers side head, if not the car will barely run.
Lets get back to basics, were the heads removed when the cam was installed?
If so was the ground wire reattached on the back of the drivers side head, if not the car will barely run.
I ran for two weeks on H/C 232-236 114 lsa w/o a tune. Seems like there are other issues.
About 50% of our work is stuff other people, both DIYers and other shops have built, or repaired, or tried to repair and couldnt.
I hear and see all the time about peeps buying HPT or EFI live or whatever, and BAM, they're a tuner. My programming software, and I have alot of it, costs a fraction of what I have invested in diagnostic equipment. I am a diagnostic specialist first. I solve problems. I have alot of customers come in for "tuning" because they have driveability problems. One as recently as yesterday. His problems could not be "cured" by tuning. It had a real problem. It takes an expert, with years of experience to differentiate between electrical/mechanical problems and PCM configuration issues.
AND, BTW, there is nothing easy about tuning. Try making a 240 something duration cam idle nice, not surge, or stall, etc. Then get back to me and tell me how easy it is. Anyone can learn to tune, but it aint easy.
Last edited by edcmat-l1; May 22, 2007 at 07:50 AM.
My first guess would be a vacuum leak. A cam install shouldn't involve removing the intake, so the brake vacuum line should not have been removed though you could still check it. I would start off making sure the MAF, air bridge and TB couplings are all tight. That would be something they would have removed during the cam install and it would be easy to overlook during reassembly. If it turns out to be a tune the VE Tables in the 800-1000-1200 range will be where you will look at for A/F and the base running airflow under Idle-idle airflow will be what you adjust to correct for the stall conditions. Good luck.
About 50% of our work is stuff other people, both DIYers and other shops have built, or repaired, or tried to repair and couldnt.
I hear and see all the time about peeps buying HPT or EFI live or whatever, and BAM, they're a tuner. My programming software, and I have alot of it, costs a fraction of what I have invested in diagnostic equipment. I am a diagnostic specialist first. I solve problems. I have alot of customers come in for "tuning" because they have driveability problems. One as recently as yesterday. His problems could not be "cured" by tuning. It had a real problem. It takes an expert, with years of experience to differentiate between electrical/mechanical problems and PCM configuration issues.
AND, BTW, there is nothing easy about tuning. Try making a 240 something duration cam idle nice, not surge, or stall, etc. Then get back to me and tell me how easy it is. Anyone can learn to tune, but it aint easy.
my 224/230 cam was easy to do. I have 3.23 gears in my TA and I can cruise around town in 4th gear at 30mph. No bucking, surging and idles like a dream. I did a friends car with a high 23X, yea was more tricky, but once you know what to look for then it becomes simple.
As for a newb, yea you have to learn the language first before attempting to touch it.
My turbo car was a pain in the azz with the 60# inectors but i eventually got it.
Also I believe a dyno tune isnt 100% correct for real life driving. All my stuff Ive tuned were road tested. Lots of trips and pissed off neighbors, but it works.
About 50% of our work is stuff other people, both DIYers and other shops have built, or repaired, or tried to repair and couldnt.
I hear and see all the time about peeps buying HPT or EFI live or whatever, and BAM, they're a tuner. My programming software, and I have alot of it, costs a fraction of what I have invested in diagnostic equipment. I am a diagnostic specialist first. I solve problems. I have alot of customers come in for "tuning" because they have driveability problems. One as recently as yesterday. His problems could not be "cured" by tuning. It had a real problem. It takes an expert, with years of experience to differentiate between electrical/mechanical problems and PCM configuration issues.
AND, BTW, there is nothing easy about tuning. Try making a 240 something duration cam idle nice, not surge, or stall, etc. Then get back to me and tell me how easy it is. Anyone can learn to tune, but it aint easy.








