Lowering Problems
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
From: Branchburg, NJ
I had the same issue with my fronts. Tried EVERY trick the forum members suggested, and none worked. Finally stripped the heads off the bolts and just gave up. 
My last resort, which I haven't tried yet, is taking the whole spring out, sticking the bolt in a vice, and turning the whole spring.
Mine's hopeless, but hopefully you get yours straightened out.
My last resort, which I haven't tried yet, is taking the whole spring out, sticking the bolt in a vice, and turning the whole spring.
Mine's hopeless, but hopefully you get yours straightened out.
Coolest Guy Evar!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,570
Likes: 3
From: Fairfax VA
I had the same issue with my fronts. Tried EVERY trick the forum members suggested, and none worked. Finally stripped the heads off the bolts and just gave up.
My last resort, which I haven't tried yet, is taking the whole spring out, sticking the bolt in a vice, and turning the whole spring.
Mine's hopeless, but hopefully you get yours straightened out.
My last resort, which I haven't tried yet, is taking the whole spring out, sticking the bolt in a vice, and turning the whole spring.
Mine's hopeless, but hopefully you get yours straightened out.
-RR
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 4,994
Likes: 503
From: Hilton NY
There is a smooth steel insert molded into the plastic spring that the bolt screws into. As a last resort it is possible to tap the insert down with a deep well socket or tube over the bolt so that the insert separates from the spring. You can see part of the insert top at the bottom of the bolt. The removed insert/ bolt can be put in a vice and heated so that the bolt will unscrew. The insert threads should be cleaned with a tap then the insert is epoxied back into the spring, just degrease the areas to be glued. Since the hole that the insert fits is not all the way through the spring the strength is not compromised. It might be necessary to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle for more room to work but do not use a pickle fork since it will ruin the ball joint seal. Most of these bolts respond to penetrating oil but some don't. I protected the spring with aluminum sheet/ aluminum foil and used heat on the bolt along with Kroil and the result was the insert rotating with the bolt, that's when it was tapped down and out with a hammer. I had to do this three years ago on my '98 and it worked well. I don't know if the inserts were redesigned on later years.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
From: FLORISSANT MO.
There is a smooth steel insert molded into the plastic spring that the bolt screws into. As a last resort it is possible to tap the insert down with a deep well socket or tube over the bolt so that the insert separates from the spring. You can see part of the insert top at the bottom of the bolt. The removed insert/ bolt can be put in a vice and heated so that the bolt will unscrew. The insert threads should be cleaned with a tap then the insert is epoxied back into the spring, just degrease the areas to be glued. Since the hole that the insert fits is not all the way through the spring the strength is not compromised. It might be necessary to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle for more room to work but do not use a pickle fork since it will ruin the ball joint seal. Most of these bolts respond to penetrating oil but some don't. I protected the spring with aluminum sheet/ aluminum foil and used heat on the bolt along with Kroil and the result was the insert rotating with the bolt, that's when it was tapped down and out with a hammer. I had to do this three years ago on my '98 and it worked well. I don't know if the inserts were redesigned on later years.
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