Sway bar poly bushings?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 382
Likes: 0
From: Austin Tx
Sway bar poly bushings?
I have a 2000 FRC and was wondering what the OD of the sway bars was both front and rear to get the poly bushings. Anyone upgraded theirs? what did you use? Thanks!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,447
Likes: 6
From: Los Angeles
I upgraded to poly bushings after switching to Z06 bars front and rear. It's a relatively affordable swap for very noticable improvements in cornering. I paid less than 300 for everything and did the swap in the garage. It's a good mod, go for it. But I don't think its worth the effort to swap to poly bushings with your stock sway bars. If they aren't squeaking, don't bother.
Gene Culley sells the Z06 bars as a set with new aluminum endlinks.
Gene Culley sells the Z06 bars as a set with new aluminum endlinks.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,088
Likes: 2
From: tampa florida
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,937
Likes: 21
From: Waldorf MD
Ecklers lists all sizes of their poly bushings and also list stock sizes. I just bought stock sizes from them. Stock is 26 mm front and 19 mm rear. They come with lube. Lube all surfaces, including those touching bracket and car. They are $14.95 a pair.
Fit good, no squeeking (sp?).
Fit good, no squeeking (sp?).
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 738
Likes: 2
From: Richmond VA
Swaybars
23mm, front; 19.1mm, rear --- FE1/Base
25.4mm, front; 21.7mm, rear --- FE3/Z51 97-99
28.6mm, front; 23.6mm, rear --- FE3/Z51 00-04
30.0mm, front; 23.6mm, rear --- FE4/Z06
31.75mm, front; 25.4mm, rear --- Hotchkis
38.4mm, front; 27.5mm, rear --- GM T1
23mm, front; 19.1mm, rear --- FE1/Base
25.4mm, front; 21.7mm, rear --- FE3/Z51 97-99
28.6mm, front; 23.6mm, rear --- FE3/Z51 00-04
30.0mm, front; 23.6mm, rear --- FE4/Z06
31.75mm, front; 25.4mm, rear --- Hotchkis
38.4mm, front; 27.5mm, rear --- GM T1
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,812
Likes: 2,029
From: eastern NC
Sway bars are changed in these cars enough, that I would recommend you just check the diameter of the bars first before ordering. It's also a good time to look at replacing the end-links. On my 2000 FRC (Z-51 bars) the front bar had been changed to the ZO-6 bar and I didn't check it beforehand. Fortunately VB&P was very gracious about returning the bushings and sending me the correct ones.
My FRC also had plastic links on the rear (that were coming apart) and metal ones (not the aluminum ones) on the front, so I upgraded to the VB&P adjustables at the same time. At the time they were very nearly the same cost as purchasing the factory aluminum ones.
VB&P were as usual, terrific to deal with and of course offer the Forum discount...
Good luck... GUSTO
My FRC also had plastic links on the rear (that were coming apart) and metal ones (not the aluminum ones) on the front, so I upgraded to the VB&P adjustables at the same time. At the time they were very nearly the same cost as purchasing the factory aluminum ones.
VB&P were as usual, terrific to deal with and of course offer the Forum discount...
Good luck... GUSTO
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,995
Likes: 61
From: Fort Wayne IN
Just changed the plastic end links and bushings on my Z51 sway bars. Several vendors for the bushings but I got mine at Corvette Central and the aluminum end links from GM Performance parts. The rear bushings were pretty chewed up after 70k miles. Squeeking is gone now. 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,572
Likes: 3
From: Rehoboth MA . . . NRA Life Member
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
I have a 2004 Z06. If I changed the stock bushings to poly bushings what difference should I expect to see and how difficult are they to change?..
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,812
Likes: 2,029
From: eastern NC
Changing the bushings is very easy to do. I would however recommend that you leave the rear of the car on the ground when you change the rear bushings. The lower bolts on the rear bar also hold the lower control arm adjusters so if you raise the rear off the ground and loosen the lower bolt, the setting can possibly change. Keeping the tires flat on the ground, should prevent the adjustment from changing.
Good luck... GUSTO
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,572
Likes: 3
From: Rehoboth MA . . . NRA Life Member
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
You may not actually notice any difference, depending on how you drive. What you will have done however is increase the effective stiffness of the bar since the poly bushings do not deflect nearly as much as the stock rubber bushings. This will cause the bar to resist differential movement in the suspension much quicker. On the other hand, if you drive the car aggressively, you should feel an increase in roll resistance.
Changing the bushings is very easy to do. I would however recommend that you leave the rear of the car on the ground when you change the rear bushings. The lower bolts on the rear bar also hold the lower control arm adjusters so if you raise the rear off the ground and loosen the lower bolt, the setting can possibly change. Keeping the tires flat on the ground, should prevent the adjustment from changing.
Good luck... GUSTO
Changing the bushings is very easy to do. I would however recommend that you leave the rear of the car on the ground when you change the rear bushings. The lower bolts on the rear bar also hold the lower control arm adjusters so if you raise the rear off the ground and loosen the lower bolt, the setting can possibly change. Keeping the tires flat on the ground, should prevent the adjustment from changing.
Good luck... GUSTO
Thanks for taking the time to reply and for the advise...
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,737
Likes: 0
From: Northern VA
Sway bars are changed in these cars enough, that I would recommend you just check the diameter of the bars first before ordering. It's also a good time to look at replacing the end-links. On my 2000 FRC (Z-51 bars) the front bar had been changed to the ZO-6 bar and I didn't check it beforehand. Fortunately VB&P was very gracious about returning the bushings and sending me the correct ones.
My FRC also had plastic links on the rear (that were coming apart) and metal ones (not the aluminum ones) on the front, so I upgraded to the VB&P adjustables at the same time. At the time they were very nearly the same cost as purchasing the factory aluminum ones.
VB&P were as usual, terrific to deal with and of course offer the Forum discount...
Good luck... GUSTO
My FRC also had plastic links on the rear (that were coming apart) and metal ones (not the aluminum ones) on the front, so I upgraded to the VB&P adjustables at the same time. At the time they were very nearly the same cost as purchasing the factory aluminum ones.
VB&P were as usual, terrific to deal with and of course offer the Forum discount...
Good luck... GUSTO
Measure twice, order once
