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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 04:09 PM
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Default A/C issue

I have hot air blowing out both the driver and passenger side vents. I took the car in today to have the A/C checked and they say it is charged and the compressor is coming on. This thing only blows hot air and no cold even though the A/C was just serviced. I don't have any error codes so what gives. I was thinking possibly an actuator but would it have gone bad on both sides at the same time? Any ideas or tests you can think of would be very helpful.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 04:41 PM
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If the green light is staying on the AC button, that usually means your freon is ok. You may want to try pulling up any codes on the DIC and clearing them. Also pull the 27 fuse in the passenger side footwell to reset the doors -
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 05:29 PM
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The Green light stays on and I can hear the A/C compressor kick on and off as I press the button. I took it in to have the A/C serviced at lunchtime and they said it was plenty full and had no leaks. It has no codes, I'm going to pull the fuse to reset the doors and see if that helps.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 08:15 PM
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Have you had a leaky battery? If so, the acid has probably eaten through the vacuum line(s) under the battery.

If not that, the vacuum hose may have come off the back of the intake manifold.

My guess...acid has eaten your vacuum line.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 10:16 PM
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No leaky battery, I replaced the factory thing with a Red top years ago. Replaced the lower vacum hose about 6 months ago, didn't have control over my vents when that was out. It wasn't from battery corrosion, it was from clutch install and forgetfullness.

This one is just plain weird, when I turn the heat up the fan slows down. The display doesn't change though. I'm seriously thinking the electronic unit is bad. It doesn't matter whether the A/C is on or not, the head unit changes the fan speed when I turn the heat control on the drivers side.

Any other suggestions before I replace the electronic module? Anyone have a working one they want to get rid of?
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 11:27 AM
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I am having the same problem. One other thing you can check. Cycle through the modes and make sure that it changes the direction of where the air is coming out. If it does then you are getting vaccume from the intake. I am probably going to pull apart the vaccume line and the HVAC system and check them out to make sure that everything is working alright. Keep me updated
Jason
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Itallian33
I am having the same problem. One other thing you can check. Cycle through the modes and make sure that it changes the direction of where the air is coming out. If it does then you are getting vaccume from the intake. I am probably going to pull apart the vaccume line and the HVAC system and check them out to make sure that everything is working alright. Keep me updated
Jason
I had that problem a few months back, it turned out the hose from the back of the intake was not reconnected after the clutch install. I replaced the hose and my ducting worked fine afterwards. When there is no vacuum it defaults to the defroster, had that same problem in my C4 a few years back as well. This is frustrating because it's probably an easy fix once I find the culprit.
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 04:06 PM
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Thatt's good. One less thing you have to worry about. Good luck finding the problem, i will let you know if I fix mine. I am going to go through my manuals this week and see if i cant figure it out.
Jason
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 08:24 AM
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This has me totally stumped. Is it possible the A/C compressor could be bad and yet still turn on and off? The only other thing I can think of is I must have a door that is not opening to allow the cold air in. I just can't imagine both actuators going bad at the same time.
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 09:30 AM
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There is.
From my service manual.



To get to the door you have to remove the dash
I will be working on this sunday if i get a chance.
Jason
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by IJustSmile
This has me totally stumped. Is it possible the A/C compressor could be bad and yet still turn on and off? The only other thing I can think of is I must have a door that is not opening to allow the cold air in. I just can't imagine both actuators going bad at the same time.
Did you check the hoses on the compressor? One should be hot, and the other should be pretty cold. If they are, your compressor is working fine.

Also, if Actuators are bad, you WILL get codes.
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 02:18 PM
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I went home and played with mine over lunch.
The blower door works fine, i switched it over to heat and it baked me out of the car. Switched back to ac and still not cold.
Checked the lines like you were talking about JR_Vette, one is hot, and the other is cool, not cold. How do i check if the compressor is bad?
Jason
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 09:05 PM
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I checked my hoses and one is hot and the other isn't cold but isn't blazing hot either. Probably too close to the headers. The thing that puzzles me is that when I turn it to heat the blower motor slows down to almost nothing. This happens regardless of if I have the A/C turned on or not. Turn it back to cold and the blower motor kicks right back up. I'd try another electronic controller but they are rather expensive to buy just for a test.

I have absolutely no codes so according to the General my car is in perfect working order.
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 09:49 PM
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I just put a can of R134 in the system and it fixed it my problem. I had to go buy the gauge set and but it in, but it worked. hopefully it will help you too.
Jason
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 02:40 PM
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I wish that was my problem. I've talked with someone who rebuilds the electronic A/C control and he has never heard of my problem either. Does anyone know of a place outside of the Stealership that I could take it to in the Tampa area? I live in Florida and I need my A/C.
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 03:59 PM
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if your low pressure line is not ice cold, where there is condensation on the bare line, then your problem lies in coolant loop. either your compressor isn't working right, the oriface tube is plugged, the drier could not be working, or it could be low on fluid. Yours sounds like it is doing exatly like mine was. I thought mine was full as well, but untill you look at both sides of the gauge set you don't really know. Good luck with it
Jason
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 04:27 PM
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Default ac not cold

I felt tepid air in both my 98 C5 and my Montana. Old guages wouldn't fit NEW fittings so I got a set at Harbor Freight for either $39 or $49.
Pressures looked a lil low. Added ONE can of freon to each car and they now can make ice cubes in the front seat.
Other things could be the cause but a SMALL amount of FREON makes a BIG difference. One caution DON'T OVERCHARGE IT. Too much freon can cause compressor slugging and might even burst your rubber hoses especially on a 100 degree day. ALSO WEAR GLASSES OR SOME EL CHEAPO plastic safety shields. DON'T get that stuff in your eyes.
The R134a is also proven to cause testicular cancer so maybe you could have your wife or GF do the charging for you. BIGHANK
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 01:36 PM
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I had already taken it to an A/C shop and they said the pressure was good. I may take it to a different shop and get a second opinion. What baffles me is the temp control affecting the blower motor. That happens regardless of the A/C being turned on or not. For all I know the A/C is working properly and something else is causing the air not to blow cold. With no error codes, I have no idea what that could be.
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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JR_VETTE
Have you had a leaky battery? If so, the acid has probably eaten through the vacuum line(s) under the battery.

If not that, the vacuum hose may have come off the back of the intake manifold.

My guess...acid has eaten your vacuum line.
How difficult is it to get to the vacuum hose on the back side of the intake manifold? Can I get to it by just removing the intake manifold covers, or will I have to move the intake manifold forward itself ?

Thanks,
Shayne
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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 09:16 PM
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Default similar problem, quick fix

I had a similar situation only that the a/c was cold on the passenger side and hot on the driverside. A thread on this Forum said to disconnect the battery for ONE HOUR, reconnect and let the actuators reset. Doesn't cost anything and maybe might just help. It worked like a charm on mine, putting an end to the stealership wanting $$$$$ to fix. Good luck!

Uncle52
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