Correct Tension for Speed Bleeders?
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Correct Tension for Speed Bleeders?
Hello all,
I have a 2003 ZO6 and i just recieved my new speed bleeders for my brake system. They are the actual brand Speed Bleeder model# SB1010S M10 x 1.0
Anyways... I have done a lot of searches on this forum and others and have seen a lot about "DONT OVER TIGHTEN THE SPEED BLEEDER", but no one has really said what the limit for over tightening is.
If i were to just tighten them to the point where i cant tighten them anymore, would that be okay or too far? Im not going to be putting all of my body weight into it... but if i just push when tightening and it feels nice and snug, will that be enough? Or do i need to go with a torque wrench?
And i have also seen a Number of different Seqences for the correct order to do your brake bleeding.
ex. RR,LR,RF,LF and LR,RF,RR,LF and LR,RR,LF,RF etc..... what is the correct order?
Thanks for you imput.
-Mike
I have a 2003 ZO6 and i just recieved my new speed bleeders for my brake system. They are the actual brand Speed Bleeder model# SB1010S M10 x 1.0
Anyways... I have done a lot of searches on this forum and others and have seen a lot about "DONT OVER TIGHTEN THE SPEED BLEEDER", but no one has really said what the limit for over tightening is.
If i were to just tighten them to the point where i cant tighten them anymore, would that be okay or too far? Im not going to be putting all of my body weight into it... but if i just push when tightening and it feels nice and snug, will that be enough? Or do i need to go with a torque wrench?
And i have also seen a Number of different Seqences for the correct order to do your brake bleeding.
ex. RR,LR,RF,LF and LR,RF,RR,LF and LR,RR,LF,RF etc..... what is the correct order?
Thanks for you imput.
-Mike
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
I screw in the speedbleeders until they just start getting snug and then turnn about 1/8 turn more.
Please fill in your profile. The bleeding sequence depends on the year of your C5.
Please fill in your profile. The bleeding sequence depends on the year of your C5.
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 14,639
Likes: 39
From: Winston-Salem North Carolina
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I put them on my car 02 Z06, and just gave a little more push/pull after they were snug. The sequence I use is furtheset to closest from the resivour. passanger rear/driver rear/passanger front/driverfront. I keep the cap off, give 3-4 pumps per wheel, and after each wheel I add enough fluid to keep it full.
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
I put them on my car 02 Z06, and just gave a little more push/pull after they were snug. The sequence I use is furtheset to closest from the resivour. passanger rear/driver rear/passanger front/driverfront. I keep the cap off, give 3-4 pumps per wheel, and after each wheel I add enough fluid to keep it full.
Do you use any sort of Teflon tape or thread sealant on your bleeders?
If i used Teflon tape would that hurt anything?
Racer
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 452
Likes: 2
From: Lynnfield MA
I wouldn't use teflon tape. Unlike some pipe connections, the
bleeder doesn't seal from the threads, it seals from the cone
at the bottom of the bleeder seating in the caliper. That's one
reason why you don't want to over tighten them, you can
ruin the nose and then they don't seal well. The other
reason is that the shaft is a bit thinner than a regular bleeder
to make room for the spring and ball, so you can fairly easily
shear them off. Just snug them down until they feel tight -
they don't need a lot of pressure, and when you are done,
start the car and stomp on the brake. If none leak - you're good!
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 14,639
Likes: 39
From: Winston-Salem North Carolina
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I wouldn't use teflon tape. Unlike some pipe connections, the
bleeder doesn't seal from the threads, it seals from the cone
at the bottom of the bleeder seating in the caliper. That's one
reason why you don't want to over tighten them, you can
ruin the nose and then they don't seal well. The other
reason is that the shaft is a bit thinner than a regular bleeder
to make room for the spring and ball, so you can fairly easily
shear them off. Just snug them down until they feel tight -
they don't need a lot of pressure, and when you are done,
start the car and stomp on the brake. If none leak - you're good!
bleeder doesn't seal from the threads, it seals from the cone
at the bottom of the bleeder seating in the caliper. That's one
reason why you don't want to over tighten them, you can
ruin the nose and then they don't seal well. The other
reason is that the shaft is a bit thinner than a regular bleeder
to make room for the spring and ball, so you can fairly easily
shear them off. Just snug them down until they feel tight -
they don't need a lot of pressure, and when you are done,
start the car and stomp on the brake. If none leak - you're good!
no teflon. Park in an area where there aren't any drip marks/grease/oil on the floor. start the car up and apply the brakes a few times, look for leaks.
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Advanced
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: Waterford MI
But your statement is not wholly accurate. When seated, the bleeder seals on the cone as you described. But note the thread sealer on the Speed Bleeders. For them to function properly during bleeding, when you open the bleeder (about 1/8-1/4 turn) the threads must seal or air will bypass the check valve and bleed back into the system when you release the pedal. Be sure not to open 'em too much for bleeding.
