Paging Quicksilver re cdn headlights
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 327
Likes: 1
From: Canada
Paging Quicksilver re cdn headlights
I posted this a couple of days ago. Maninblack indicated you can help!
Thanks
:cheers:
Disabling Cdn auto headlights
Apparently this can be done on US cars using the DIC but not on Cdn vehicles. Every time I start the car in the garage the headlights come on and stay on until I reach the end of the street. No big deal but irritating
Thanks
:cheers:
Disabling Cdn auto headlights
Apparently this can be done on US cars using the DIC but not on Cdn vehicles. Every time I start the car in the garage the headlights come on and stay on until I reach the end of the street. No big deal but irritating
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 7,615
Likes: 142
From: Lake Simcoe..... Back in Black baby!!!
Toronto Events Coordinator
Re: Paging Quicksilver re cdn headlights (NewfieC5)
Hey NewfieC5, I saved QuicksilverC5's original post on this topic in a MSword file, here it is. Just got around to doing mine this past Friday night. Works like a champ now...no more lights coming on in the garage!!!
mjager
**************************************
The Question of How One Can Disable the Twilight Sentinel on Canadian Model C5s comes up quite regularly on the forum and while many people may be aware that it can be done simply by substituting an electrical resistor for the ambient light sensor located in the left hand side of the C5's defroster grill, there nevertheless often appear to be questions about EXACTLY what resistor values to use, EXACTLY what might be involved in doing the job/what kind of PROBLEMS, ISSUES, CONSIDERATIONS one might encounter, etc.
Well, an hour or so ago I just finished 'doing mine' (disabling the sensor on my new 01 C5) and I thought that it might prove helpful to others who might want to do the same thing by describing EXACTLY how I did it
So, for the record, here's the scoop:
**************************************** *****
It turned out to be VERY easy to do. The only minor difficulties I encountered were:
a) due to the limited distance I could pull the sensor and its lead from the wiring harness out to facilitate working on it (about 4"), and
b) the fact that one has to work in fairly close quarters down low at the base of the windshield. To make this easier, I moved the seat(s) as far forward as possible when actually doing the work.
Following information obtained on the forum, I did it as follows:
1. I used a CREDIT CARD to 'work'/loosen and 'pop out' the dash top defroster grill..
2. The Twilight Sentinel (TS) sensor itself comes in a base/housing that plugs into a female socket on the left hand underside of the defroster grill. It simply screws into its defroster grill socket, requiring only a 1/4 clockwise turn to 'lock' it into place like (eg.) a tail light bulb into its socket.
3. Before I did ANYTHING (even unscrewed the sensor from the grill), I tied some *black* fishing line (about 4 feet worth) around the ACTUAL WIRE connecting the sensor to the harness, ***JUST IN CASE the whole thing should accidentally slip down into the dash during the process***, so I could pull it up again... (THAT WOULD BE A PAIN - the head lights would then ALWAYS be on when the car was running, and trying to fish it out again looked like it would NOT be easy...).
4. I THEN unscrewed the sensor from the defroster grill.
5. THEN, the sensor itself simply plugs into a male connector on the end of the wiring harness lead, so I unplugged the sensor from its harness connector. (I used a small jeweller's screwdriver to release a clip to allow the parts to be separated).
6. I then reinstalled the (now disconnected) sensor back into the defroster grill (for 'looks' only, since it's now non-functional),
7. Next, I bent the leads on a 4.7K OHM ½ Watt resistor that I picked up today (6-pak for $1.49; needed only one), and plugged the resistor leads into the contacts on the end of the male wiring harness connector. (Real nice fit - tight but not too tight).
8. I then taped the resistor/connector up to prevent shorts and provide further insurance against them coming apart, using black electrical tape.
9. I then ***taped the connector to the sensor housing*** , the objective being to help ensure that it wouldn't flop around/rattle/make noise if simply left loose.
10. I then looped and tied the fishing line through a couple of bars in the defroster grill, leaving only about 4" of slack to its tie point back on the wiring harness, and cut off the surplus line with scissors - JUST IN CASE THE ELECTRICAL TAPE SHOULD EVER SOFTEN/COME LOOSE FROM HEAT IN THE CAR and the resistor/lead might decide to separate from the sensor and drop down into the dash as mentioned above and cause noise/be difficult to retrieve...
11. I then reinstalled the defroster grill and 'voila'.
Now *I RULE*.
Base upon admittedly limited testing (since I just finished the job and only tested things out an hour or so ago in my garage), I now (seem to) have TOTAL CONTROL over when I want the headlights up/on or down/off, regardless of ambient light levels.
(***Again, based on my limited testing to date*** - although I simply followed information posted many times on the forum (specifically about the 4.7K ½ Watt resistor) and can't see WHY this 'resistor-subbing' should not work or screw anything ELSE up. As far as the 'computer' knows, it's simply always daylight now...).
Maybe the above will help/encourage others who wish to do the same thing. It only took me 20 minutes or so to do the whole job and I didn't even try to rush.
QuicksilverC5
Senior Member
Posts: 110
From: Winnipeg,MB,Canada
Registered: Nov 2000
[Modified by mjager, 9:02 AM 10/28/2001]
mjager
**************************************
The Question of How One Can Disable the Twilight Sentinel on Canadian Model C5s comes up quite regularly on the forum and while many people may be aware that it can be done simply by substituting an electrical resistor for the ambient light sensor located in the left hand side of the C5's defroster grill, there nevertheless often appear to be questions about EXACTLY what resistor values to use, EXACTLY what might be involved in doing the job/what kind of PROBLEMS, ISSUES, CONSIDERATIONS one might encounter, etc.
Well, an hour or so ago I just finished 'doing mine' (disabling the sensor on my new 01 C5) and I thought that it might prove helpful to others who might want to do the same thing by describing EXACTLY how I did it
So, for the record, here's the scoop:
**************************************** *****
It turned out to be VERY easy to do. The only minor difficulties I encountered were:
a) due to the limited distance I could pull the sensor and its lead from the wiring harness out to facilitate working on it (about 4"), and
b) the fact that one has to work in fairly close quarters down low at the base of the windshield. To make this easier, I moved the seat(s) as far forward as possible when actually doing the work.
Following information obtained on the forum, I did it as follows:
1. I used a CREDIT CARD to 'work'/loosen and 'pop out' the dash top defroster grill..
2. The Twilight Sentinel (TS) sensor itself comes in a base/housing that plugs into a female socket on the left hand underside of the defroster grill. It simply screws into its defroster grill socket, requiring only a 1/4 clockwise turn to 'lock' it into place like (eg.) a tail light bulb into its socket.
3. Before I did ANYTHING (even unscrewed the sensor from the grill), I tied some *black* fishing line (about 4 feet worth) around the ACTUAL WIRE connecting the sensor to the harness, ***JUST IN CASE the whole thing should accidentally slip down into the dash during the process***, so I could pull it up again... (THAT WOULD BE A PAIN - the head lights would then ALWAYS be on when the car was running, and trying to fish it out again looked like it would NOT be easy...).
4. I THEN unscrewed the sensor from the defroster grill.
5. THEN, the sensor itself simply plugs into a male connector on the end of the wiring harness lead, so I unplugged the sensor from its harness connector. (I used a small jeweller's screwdriver to release a clip to allow the parts to be separated).
6. I then reinstalled the (now disconnected) sensor back into the defroster grill (for 'looks' only, since it's now non-functional),
7. Next, I bent the leads on a 4.7K OHM ½ Watt resistor that I picked up today (6-pak for $1.49; needed only one), and plugged the resistor leads into the contacts on the end of the male wiring harness connector. (Real nice fit - tight but not too tight).
8. I then taped the resistor/connector up to prevent shorts and provide further insurance against them coming apart, using black electrical tape.
9. I then ***taped the connector to the sensor housing*** , the objective being to help ensure that it wouldn't flop around/rattle/make noise if simply left loose.
10. I then looped and tied the fishing line through a couple of bars in the defroster grill, leaving only about 4" of slack to its tie point back on the wiring harness, and cut off the surplus line with scissors - JUST IN CASE THE ELECTRICAL TAPE SHOULD EVER SOFTEN/COME LOOSE FROM HEAT IN THE CAR and the resistor/lead might decide to separate from the sensor and drop down into the dash as mentioned above and cause noise/be difficult to retrieve...
11. I then reinstalled the defroster grill and 'voila'.
Now *I RULE*.
Base upon admittedly limited testing (since I just finished the job and only tested things out an hour or so ago in my garage), I now (seem to) have TOTAL CONTROL over when I want the headlights up/on or down/off, regardless of ambient light levels.
(***Again, based on my limited testing to date*** - although I simply followed information posted many times on the forum (specifically about the 4.7K ½ Watt resistor) and can't see WHY this 'resistor-subbing' should not work or screw anything ELSE up. As far as the 'computer' knows, it's simply always daylight now...).
Maybe the above will help/encourage others who wish to do the same thing. It only took me 20 minutes or so to do the whole job and I didn't even try to rush.
QuicksilverC5
Senior Member
Posts: 110
From: Winnipeg,MB,Canada
Registered: Nov 2000
[Modified by mjager, 9:02 AM 10/28/2001]
