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2002 E-brake needs adjusting...won't completely hold
I have a 2002 manual and my ebrake will not hold the car after 850 rpms. Our inspection here in mass requires the car to hold to 1500. I have heard many say that this will never happen. Is there a way to make it a little better though. I would like to pass my inspection.
Thanks
Jeff
PS this is my first manual and not sure how it is suppose to be.
I don't think there is a prayer in hell of an e-brake holding back a vette letting the clutch out at 1,500 RPM, realistically that sounds impossible for a lot of cars. Is that a requirement for manual transmissions, or just autos?
The only way to adjust the e-brake is to pull the rear rotors off and spin out the star adjuster for the internal e-barke pad. It's just about the same as adjusting drum brakes, but you can't get to the star with the rotor on...
If all you have is a cable tension problem cycling the parking brake on and completely off three times will tighten the cables. If it works you don't have to play with the brake adjuster at the wheel.
I don't think there is a prayer in hell of an e-brake holding back a vette letting the clutch out at 1,500 RPM, realistically that sounds impossible for a lot of cars. Is that a requirement for manual transmissions, or just autos?
The only way to adjust the e-brake is to pull the rear rotors off and spin out the star adjuster for the internal e-barke pad. It's just about the same as adjusting drum brakes, but you can't get to the star with the rotor on...
Thanks for that tip! Was going nuts trying to figure out where the adjuster was!
If all you have is a cable tension problem cycling the parking brake on and completely off three times will tighten the cables. If it works you don't have to play with the brake adjuster at the wheel.
Bill
Thanks for the help Bill, yep I tried that one, no luck she still lurks forward.
I will inspect the pads, rotors and adjust at the wheel.
Yoou will need to adjust the "star wheel" on the parking brake shoes.
They are located on the rear wheel and friction fit inside the rear rotors.
You want to open up the shoes until the rotors will JUST fit on with a bit of effort...
Then you will have a very strong parking brake with the lever pulled upward to a 45 degree angle.
Here is a link to a members web site with a good how to on this and a few other C5 issues.
You want 3.
Yoou will need to adjust the "star wheel" on the parking brake shoes.
They are located on the rear wheel and friction fit inside the rear rotors.
You want to open up the shoes until the rotors will JUST fit on with a bit of effort...
Then you will have a very strong parking brake with the lever pulled upward to a 45 degree angle.
Here is a link to a members web site with a good how to on this and a few other C5 issues.
You want 3.
I tried to spin that star bolt..and it just spins in both directions....it clicks and all but I don't see it making a difference at all. I tried to pull up on the ebrake and I don't see the drums moving at all...in fact I don't even see the cable moving at all???
Is that star bolt suppose to move at all..like a normal drum setup?
The head of the star moves outwards away from the star it you wedge a screwdriver off the backing plate if I remember correctly. You will probably only wind up with an eigth inch or so widening till you will not be able to easily get the drum/rotor on. Be carefull working it back and forth or the backing spring will come off its hooks and is a pain to get back together (but can be done,see recents posts). Overall I was not that happy with the adjustment, maybe it is a design flaw but although the holding and stopping power is better it is only marginal as compared to other make vehicles. I would have a hard time laying rubber at speed.
I don't think there is a prayer in hell of an e-brake holding back a vette letting the clutch out at 1,500 RPM, realistically that sounds impossible for a lot of cars. Is that a requirement for manual transmissions, or just autos?
The only way to adjust the e-brake is to pull the rear rotors off and spin out the star adjuster for the internal e-barke pad. It's just about the same as adjusting drum brakes, but you can't get to the star with the rotor on...
I adjusted mine when I put on new rear brakes. MUST REMOVE PB CABLE, THEN CALIPERS. Adjust starwheels till they JUST DRAG sliding the rotors on and off of the brake shoe. DON'T PULL TOO HARD or you will spend a few hours replacing the metal spring that holds on the PB shoes like I DID. While you are this far get some caliper paint, clean and paint the calipers and ur Z06 bound. BIGHANK
I adjusted mine when I put on new rear brakes. MUST REMOVE PB CABLE, THEN CALIPERS. Adjust starwheels till they JUST DRAG sliding the rotors on and off of the brake shoe. DON'T PULL TOO HARD or you will spend a few hours replacing the metal spring that holds on the PB shoes like I DID. While you are this far get some caliper paint, clean and paint the calipers and ur Z06 bound. BIGHANK
I already repainted them calipers....and the car is going in to have GM work on it.....car i just got and has a warrantee.....The GM service guy said it should be covered.....
I had a warranty too and the dealer said it couldn't be adjusted. All of them are like that. "B S" Wish I knew about this forum WHEN I HAD THE DEALER WARRANTY. Found out lots of things. PB, battery acid eaten vacuum lines, idler pully causing squeeks. If adjusted properly you can STOP THE CAR with the "PARKING BRAKE" the dealer pointed out to me its "NOT AN EMERGENCY BRAKE JUST A PARKING BRAKE"
Either way its purpose is to HOLD THE CAR STILL WHEN APPLIED. BIGHANK
I had a warranty too and the dealer said it couldn't be adjusted. All of them are like that. "B S" Wish I knew about this forum WHEN I HAD THE DEALER WARRANTY. Found out lots of things. PB, battery acid eaten vacuum lines, idler pully causing squeeks. If adjusted properly you can STOP THE CAR with the "PARKING BRAKE" the dealer pointed out to me its "NOT AN EMERGENCY BRAKE JUST A PARKING BRAKE"
Either way its purpose is to HOLD THE CAR STILL WHEN APPLIED. BIGHANK
Yeh you were right, just got back....$37 bucks later and not a thing done they tell me.....try to adjust the star bolt....I told them I did that already....they said well thats the best they are gonna be.....they claim I would need a rear brake service soon and then try adjusting them them.....total BS
When I had the car in for some other work they told me my brakes were shot and wanted $280 to turn the front rotors and replace the pads and $180 to do the rears. I said THANKS BUT NO THANKS. Went to the GM Wholesaler (sells ACDelco parts to the GM DEALERS), and first got ridiculous prices for the rotors and Semi Metallic pads. Called another Delco wholesaler and got better prices. Finally the first wholesaler sold me the front rotors (BRAND NEW GM OEM) for 22.80 each. They are all different as the flutes or cooling vanes are directional so don't get two with the same part number or you will have a varooooooooooooom sound when driving fast. My front rotors had 70K miles on them and were turned when I bought the car at 36K so I figured it was a good time to replace em. The rears were a lil rusty but showed very little wear so I just took them off, Adjusted the starwheels and the replaced the pads with GM OEM SemiMetallic pads. I also bought some Duplicolor Caliper paint and while I had everything open painted the calipers. Now it stops on a dime, the EB Works FINE, and it looks like I have Z06 calipers. Paid about $160 or $180 total for front rotors (2) front and rear GM semimetallic pads and the caliper paint. Painted calipers about 3 or 4 coats (nice and thick) and then highlighted the "CORVETTE" logo with white touch up paint. DO IT YOURSELF AND YOU KNOW WHAT YOU HAVE DONE. BIGHANK