C-5 Tech, tried to look at your site, and can't get past the Guest portion, problems???

 

I saved this from an older post: someone's instructions on how to remove the door panel, looks like some great detail...

"Remove 2 screws behind the pull handle, pry the release handle bezel off,
pry the panel away from the door working around the bottom first then the sides.

AND...

Those are the only two screws. Beyond that, however, there three more issues:

(1) you'll need to remove the plastic piece that encircles the interior door
handle; to do this, pull the handle forward like you're opening the door, and use
a flat blade screwdriver to pry inside the two small horizontal slots in the piece,
one above and one below the door handle. Be careful as it is easy to scar the plastic.

(2) there are 5 plastic force fit connectors that hold the panel to the door. These
are attached to the inside of the door panel, and they force fit into holes in the door.
3 of them are generally along the bottom of the panel, and the other 2 are just below
and above the front door speaker. I found it easier to start along the bottom. Use a
butter knife or a couple of small flat blade screwdrivers, and insert them along the
bottom of the door panel. You might start toward the rear of the door, at the location
where the door panel changes color if you have 2 tone interior, or where there are 2
panels if you have single color interior. You'll find one connector there. Put the
screwdrivers on both sides of the connector and pry, being careful because the vinyl
on the panel is paper thin. Once you've freed the first one then move along the bottom
edge of the panel & you'll find the next 2.

(3) the panel along its top edge has a lip that fits inside the top of the door
(i.e., where the window protrudes upward from the door). So, once you've gotten the
above removed, then lift the panel out and upward, pulling the lip upward and out of
the ridge in the door."

BTW: My brother's 2001 driver side door lock is doing the same thing.

 

Hey RAT, I didn't read all the responses, but I just bought a car from COH, and it has the exact same problem. They are fixing it, and I believe they said it was some kind of actuator switch in the lock. Call them up and ask 'em what they did to JW's new car, and they'll tell you. Paul's the shop man now. 281-821-1222 :cheers:

 

I think this is an "in stock" item. COH had mine same day. :cheers:

 

John....GREAT .... I have saved that :)

JW....you got ANOTHER car????? what did ya get??? and I will get with a dealer on this one...

thanks Guys

R
A
T

time to go work :crazy:


[Modified by Ram Air Tony, 8:39 AM 10/31/2001]

 

anyone find out what this piece cost? my drivers door does the same thing every other time I try to unlock it...
I would rather just fix it myself if the part doesn't cost and arm and leg.

 

I believe around $20.

RAT, I got a 98 red coupe to commute back & forth to Dallas in. I'll be working a contract up there for the next year or so. :cheers:

 

hef...I am thinkin the same if it is cheap

JW.....schweet dawg ... now we can continue the Zaino Megs discussion over a COLD ONE !!!!! :cheers: :cheers:

I am gonna try to see what this part costs

thanks

R
A
T

 

I just called Bob at Fitchner Chevy and he didnt have a price and is callin GM .... but I got the part number and this is what GM parts direct says:

10435192 *
Keyless Entry Fobs & Batteries
MODULE
1
$218.00 list
$163.50 wholesale
$130.80 our price

looks like I AINT buying it if that is the true stuff :(

thanks

R
A
T

 

Who's ridin' over there anyway? :D


RG

 

Dude, that's the key FOB (the key chain thing), not the actuater switch or the door lock control module. The actuater is cheap, but the module is about $160. It's a little 4 prong computer part, which acts with the security, that's why it costs so much. BTW, a FOB is only $90 at COH. :cheers:

 

RAT -- The instructions that John saved and posted above are ones I posted a little while back, since I've been in my door panels to install my windows commanders. Anyhow, now I'm looking to go back in b/c you & I have the same passenger door lock problem, & before I turn mine over to the dealer I'm likely gonna pull my panel off to make sure I don't just have a loose wire from my window commander install (likely wishful thinking :nonod: )

So, since you've been so great with Zaino meet-ups in the past, and if you're interested, let me know if you have some weekend time & we could rip into RAT III.5's door panel! Otherwise, I think those directions above should get you there. :cheers:

 

RG..... well, one of my 3 lovely ladies :) ..... and you know which 3 I mean ;)

JW...no Bro....that is the part that Bob found on the schematic.....it is in the CATEGORY of Key FObs......but it is a module........ and Bob called me back and confirmed the prices, so the part is the one :yesnod:

STEVE...... those were some GOOOD instructions !!!! I am gonna follow them and see if I cant fix it as you mentioned (a loose wire maybe) if not, to the dealer for hte $$$ part UNDER warranty :)

thanks

R
A
T

 

RAT,
make sure they check the wiring going into the DCM if they're gonna replace it. From what you've described, if the relay inside the passenger DCM is clicking, the door lock motor should be moving. Things that would prevent that would be 1) bad solder joint on the printed circuit board inside the DCM (not likely but remotely possible), 2) expanded female terminal in the door harness connected to either the DCM or lock actuator (more likely), or 3) fault door actuator (don't know how likely this would be).

IOW, If the problem is #2, you could end up replacing the DCM - which may not be faulty in the first place - only to have it pop up again because the expanded female terminal (again) is not making contact.

Rotsa ruck.
A

 

Stop the boat!!!
Check the switch connection first. It's the easiest fix and could be the problem. If you don't check this connection it will appear anything you replace was the problem because you have to remove and replace the switch to remove and replace the door panel. The right side switch plate removes from the top and the driver side from the bottom. Place a non-marring wedge between the trim panel and the switch plate at the locations I just mentioned for the door you are working on and lift to remove. Now remove and reinstall the wire connector, that's it, now see if it works. If not, than at least you know you are not just switching out parts. These connections can come loose from slamming doors if they were not installed all the way from the factory or other repairs. When you reinstall, listen for the click.. I would think the plant can get loud and maybe not always able to hear this click.

 

Excellent point. Question, though, about "the click." My car is having this very same problem, and I'm quite sure that when it fails to work, I'm still hearing a click in the passenger door, but it's quieter than when the lock does successfully work. Does the click, as it occurs even when the lock doesn't work, mean it's for sure my actuator? Thanks.

 

I should have been careful about the word click. The click I am referring to is the snaping sound the wire connector will make when locked into position on the switch plate. As for the question you have... and I should mention I do not have a Vette so this is not first hand... I would suspect that the sound would be different since when you hit the unlock it hits both door actuators and if hit multiple times, the door still working is already open so it will not make the same sound and the side not working is not making a sound at all. I would check all wire connections to be sure. This is cheap assurance that you are fixing the problem. I am not sure if the door module makes noise but the lock actuator will. The lock actuator is part of the lock so if broke, I would think the lock would have to be replaced, I would check the wire connections at the lock once I was sure the rest were tight. Hope this helps, if not keep asking and I will do my best.

 

I guess I will dig into it and check it out this weekend (if i find the time)

thanks Guys

R
A
T

 

any last tips before I dig into this bee otch this weekend???????? STEVE....i got LOTS of beer....would be worth the trip :)

thanks

R
A
T

 

I'd give you a hand, but I don't expect to hit town until late Sunday. I'll be housed in LosColinas for a while, and may need to go back to my old hangout while they are still open (Texas Raceway in Kennedale). My red car is pretty strong, but my yellow one will have a "little work" done in a few weeks. :eek: Might just have to see if the old RATmobile is up to the challenge. ;) I should have her in Dallas after Thanksgiving. :smash: :smash: :cheers: