Kenne Bell Boostapump help........
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: http://www.mphparts.com 800-364-1975
NA or FI?
What kind of switch was included with your kit?
The basic principle is that the BAP has an activation switch (on the FI kits, it's a boost pressure switch) that tells it when to run. Instead of running OEM power straight to your pump, you run the OEM power to the BAP, and the BAP to the pump. Some of the kits out there include plug and play harnesses for this bit of the wiring.
The BAP runs your pump at line voltage (with some correction for power dips) under normal operation and jumps up as far as 18v when the switch is activated.
If yours included a rheostat to adjust voltage up and down, I would recommend soldering the two leads that go to the rheostat together so that it always boosts you to 18v. There's really no reason to not make your boosted voltage 18v all the time, and having a loose rheostat laying around just makes it more likely that you are aiming for 18v but end up getting 15v because the **** was accidentally turned.
What kind of switch was included with your kit?
The basic principle is that the BAP has an activation switch (on the FI kits, it's a boost pressure switch) that tells it when to run. Instead of running OEM power straight to your pump, you run the OEM power to the BAP, and the BAP to the pump. Some of the kits out there include plug and play harnesses for this bit of the wiring.
The BAP runs your pump at line voltage (with some correction for power dips) under normal operation and jumps up as far as 18v when the switch is activated.
If yours included a rheostat to adjust voltage up and down, I would recommend soldering the two leads that go to the rheostat together so that it always boosts you to 18v. There's really no reason to not make your boosted voltage 18v all the time, and having a loose rheostat laying around just makes it more likely that you are aiming for 18v but end up getting 15v because the **** was accidentally turned.
Thread Starter
Dig
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,475
Likes: 1,136
From: Port Saint Lucie FLORIDA & HONDURAS
I bought it used on this forum last week. It came with the red "box", the adjustable ****, relay, wires and some sort of pressure switch (black, round thing with nipple). I am nitrous only. and have no clue how to hook it up........ with no directions
Thread Starter
Dig
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,475
Likes: 1,136
From: Port Saint Lucie FLORIDA & HONDURAS
I have a stock fuel system.
The vacuum or ? is shaped like a spray can cap with 1 nipple on the bottom. It has 3 wires. 1 black1 red and 1 yellow that looks like it is not to be used.
The vacuum or ? is shaped like a spray can cap with 1 nipple on the bottom. It has 3 wires. 1 black1 red and 1 yellow that looks like it is not to be used.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Now in God's Country, the Big Sky, Montana!
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Yes on install, look here.
Some updates need to be taken into consideration. I haven't added them to the install page yet.
Point 1.
You CAN cut the controller cable OR the boost switch cable. You can jumper the connections at the BAP, just leave enough length to put it back the way it was in case you ever want to do it.
Point 2.
In Step 4 I mention tapping into the brake booster line for the BAP pressure switch. You should never do this because the brake booster line should never see boost, only vacuum. The switch shown is the boost switch but KB does offer a vacuum switch. If you hook it up the way I indicate it, the BAP will never activate with the switch shown.
Some updates need to be taken into consideration. I haven't added them to the install page yet.
Point 1.
You CAN cut the controller cable OR the boost switch cable. You can jumper the connections at the BAP, just leave enough length to put it back the way it was in case you ever want to do it.
Point 2.
In Step 4 I mention tapping into the brake booster line for the BAP pressure switch. You should never do this because the brake booster line should never see boost, only vacuum. The switch shown is the boost switch but KB does offer a vacuum switch. If you hook it up the way I indicate it, the BAP will never activate with the switch shown.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,521
Likes: 146
From: Watertown CT
Point 2.
In Step 4 I mention tapping into the brake booster line for the BAP pressure switch. You should never do this because the brake booster line should never see boost, only vacuum. The switch shown is the boost switch but KB does offer a vacuum switch. If you hook it up the way I indicate it, the BAP will never activate with the switch shown.
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Supporting Vendor
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: http://www.mphparts.com 800-364-1975
In Step 4 I mention tapping into the brake booster line for the BAP pressure switch. You should never do this because the brake booster line should never see boost, only vacuum. The switch shown is the boost switch but KB does offer a vacuum switch. If you hook it up the way I indicate it, the BAP will never activate with the switch shown.
I think that the check valve for the brake booster line is right before the booster reservoir -- so the brake booster line does see boost and vacuum. In fact, this is where my boost/vac gauge is hooked up
All of the TT and SC kits I've seen include hose barb fittings for boost/vac gauges, BOVs, wastegates, etc. so I think this is common among all years.(forgive me if that does not apply to all years -- on my 02 and 03 the check valve is just before the reservoir anyway)
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From: Now in God's Country, the Big Sky, Montana!
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
To be honest with you I haven't called Ken at KB back to talk to him about this yet. Here is the exact email I received from him for the corrections:
"Hey cajundude.
Nice write-up on our Boost-A-Pump. VERY helpful. I would like to point out a couple of things you may want to change however. I know our basic instructions tell you not to shorten the controller wiring, but we did that for a reason: we have to write our instructions for the very basic mechanic (wish we didn't, but it helps eliminate phone calls and returns of perfectly good products because they couldn't figure it out). We did not want people cutting the controller cable or taking the coax connector apart and screwing something up, so we told them to leave it alone.
Point 1.
You CAN cut the controller cable OR the boost switch cable. You can jumper the connections at the BAP, just leave enough length to put it back the way it was in case you ever want to do it.
Point 2.
I noticed in your Step 4 you mention tapping into the brake booster line for the BAP pressure switch. You should never do this because the brake booster line should never see boost, only vacuum. The switch you show works only on boost, it will not switch with vacuum. We do have another switch that will do this, but not the one you have shown. If you hook it up the way you indicate here, the BAP will never activate. I recommend changing this in your instructions to indicate you should only tap into a known boost source. We are aware turbo and centrifugal kits pressurize the manifold (and the vacuum lines that used to see only vacuum), but they should be using check valves on the brake booster or any other stock vacuum lines to insure they do not see any boost, in which case, the pressure switch would not activate. In a Kenne Bell supercharger installation, it definitely would NOT work, since we do not blow through the throttle body. All vacuum lines that were vacuum stock, remain that way with our kits, and will never see boost."
FWIW, I have mine hooked up like I have the instructions showing and mine works.
Jason
"Hey cajundude.
Nice write-up on our Boost-A-Pump. VERY helpful. I would like to point out a couple of things you may want to change however. I know our basic instructions tell you not to shorten the controller wiring, but we did that for a reason: we have to write our instructions for the very basic mechanic (wish we didn't, but it helps eliminate phone calls and returns of perfectly good products because they couldn't figure it out). We did not want people cutting the controller cable or taking the coax connector apart and screwing something up, so we told them to leave it alone.
Point 1.
You CAN cut the controller cable OR the boost switch cable. You can jumper the connections at the BAP, just leave enough length to put it back the way it was in case you ever want to do it.
Point 2.
I noticed in your Step 4 you mention tapping into the brake booster line for the BAP pressure switch. You should never do this because the brake booster line should never see boost, only vacuum. The switch you show works only on boost, it will not switch with vacuum. We do have another switch that will do this, but not the one you have shown. If you hook it up the way you indicate here, the BAP will never activate. I recommend changing this in your instructions to indicate you should only tap into a known boost source. We are aware turbo and centrifugal kits pressurize the manifold (and the vacuum lines that used to see only vacuum), but they should be using check valves on the brake booster or any other stock vacuum lines to insure they do not see any boost, in which case, the pressure switch would not activate. In a Kenne Bell supercharger installation, it definitely would NOT work, since we do not blow through the throttle body. All vacuum lines that were vacuum stock, remain that way with our kits, and will never see boost."
FWIW, I have mine hooked up like I have the instructions showing and mine works.
Jason
Thread Starter
Dig
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,475
Likes: 1,136
From: Port Saint Lucie FLORIDA & HONDURAS
Cajundude, could i just connect the vacuum/boost switch wires together and connect the 2 wires to each other on the adjustable switch too ? I'm looking at the bap right now and looks like it would be ok. Then again... looks can be deceiving
THANKS
THANKS
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: http://www.mphparts.com 800-364-1975
123sugey,
You can short the adjustment **** wires as I mentioned above without issue so that the unit runs at 18v whenever activated.
I would not however short the activation switch wires as that means your BAP will run your fuel pump all the time at 18v. Will it kill the pump? Dunno -- some guys say they are doing this successfully without issue. Are you boosting the pump and heating the fuel unnessarily? Absolutely. And it's really trivial to hook up the activation switch properly so why not do it.
Cajundude,
I think Ken may just not be aware that the check valve for the brake booster line is just before the reservoir. Therefore the brake booster hose does see both boost and vacuum. Perhaps on the Fords the check valve is in the manifold or immediately attached to the manifold? Anyway, like you said, yours works when installed on the brake booster hose, so that proves that it is seeing both boost and vacuum
You can short the adjustment **** wires as I mentioned above without issue so that the unit runs at 18v whenever activated.
I would not however short the activation switch wires as that means your BAP will run your fuel pump all the time at 18v. Will it kill the pump? Dunno -- some guys say they are doing this successfully without issue. Are you boosting the pump and heating the fuel unnessarily? Absolutely. And it's really trivial to hook up the activation switch properly so why not do it.
Cajundude,
I think Ken may just not be aware that the check valve for the brake booster line is just before the reservoir. Therefore the brake booster hose does see both boost and vacuum. Perhaps on the Fords the check valve is in the manifold or immediately attached to the manifold? Anyway, like you said, yours works when installed on the brake booster hose, so that proves that it is seeing both boost and vacuum
