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Possible fuel pump/starting problem-need help

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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 12:18 PM
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Default Possible fuel pump/starting problem-need help

2004 stock

This is an intermittant problem where the car will start and then shut down immediately. It has happened first thing in the morning during cold start, but mostly it happens after driving then sitting for a short time. When it does not happen, the car starts fine and runs great.

The battery has been checked and is putting out well over the rated cca's.

I have used techron fuel additive.

A mechanic has suggested that it is a malfunction of the fuel pump, where the gas is draining from the pump instead of being held for starting.

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 09:54 AM
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Anyone agree with the fuel pump senario?
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 11:20 AM
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If it's fairly reproducible, it might be worth getting a fuel
pressure gauge to test this theory.

There are a goodly number of electrical items that could also
command or cause a shutdown, so I wouldn't jump to a fuel
pump without seeing the pressure fall off, particularly if it's
not making any noise.

Any codes?
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 11:32 AM
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Car starting up and then dying immediatly could be due to the VATS system. The small pellet on the key gets dirty (or the cylinder is bad) and the BCM can't read it, does not send the auth code to the PCM and PCM shuts down the car right away. This pellet on the key is a resistor of known value that the BCM checks for. Try cleaning it with a proper solvent and try again.

I don't believe really the fuel pressure theory, but it is easy to check. Get at Autozone and buy a pressure sensor to hook to the Schrader valve on your fuel rail. You should get at least 58 psi. Anything lower than that is an issue.
Note that you can install the gauge when the car is off, then turn it on, then shut it down, all the while with the gauge on. Check pressure variations.
Good luck.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueThunder2000
Car starting up and then dying immediatly could be due to the VATS system. The small pellet on the key gets dirty (or the cylinder is bad) and the BCM can't read it, does not send the auth code to the PCM and PCM shuts down the car right away. This pellet on the key is a resistor of known value that the BCM checks for. Try cleaning it with a proper solvent and try again.

I don't believe really the fuel pressure theory, but it is easy to check. Get at Autozone and buy a pressure sensor to hook to the Schrader valve on your fuel rail. You should get at least 58 psi. Anything lower than that is an issue.
Note that you can install the gauge when the car is off, then turn it on, then shut it down, all the while with the gauge on. Check pressure variations.
Good luck.


The pressure will not hold 58 psi with the key turned off but it should take a while (more than 20 minutes) for it to slowly bleed down.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 11:12 AM
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Thanks for the help everyone, but I should add the following information:
2004/auto/stock
thanks to this forum I have tried all the recommended tips before posting....tried both keys, cleaned the keys with alcohol, different gas, techron additive, codes(none), battery is strong, connections are tight.

I have heard from another forum member with the same problem and no solution.

Anyone else have any ideas?

Thanks, Dave
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 01:09 PM
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If you don't see any untoward behavior from the electrical
system, and there are no codes, then it's time for the fuel
pressure gauge.

If it looks OK at idle, then the trick is to get an extension
long enough that you can duct tape the gauge to the
windshield while you take a drive. Make sure the fittings
are well seated, as you can imagine the result of a fuel
leak while the engine is hot.

We have found odd fuel pump problems this way.
If the car shuts down but the pressure is good, then
we're back to the electrical realm.
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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by SilvaDragon
If you don't see any untoward behavior from the electrical
system, and there are no codes, then it's time for the fuel
pressure gauge.

If it looks OK at idle, then the trick is to get an extension
long enough that you can duct tape the gauge to the
windshield while you take a drive. Make sure the fittings
are well seated, as you can imagine the result of a fuel
leak while the engine is hot.

We have found odd fuel pump problems this way.
If the car shuts down but the pressure is good, then
we're back to the electrical realm.
Thanks for the info, this morinig the car started rough and I got "charge system fault" on the dic
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