How difficult is it to install headers myself?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
From: Arvada CO
How difficult is it to install headers myself?
I am considering installing headers myself. I installed Corsa Sports and xpipe myself, and I am average in the garage. My concerns are several including the warranty issue. I will have to think that one through. I got a price here in Denver yesterday at the top covette specialty shop, complete install, tune, and dyno with American Racing headers, high flow cats, and xpipe for $3250. They said they use bolts that have a locking cap so they don't back out. They also recommended American Racing headers for and none blower engine vs Kooks. I have no idea how much is parts vs labor for the full package. So, I'm looking at saving some $ if I intall the headers. I saw the thread on the corvette shop in Florida with the $1800 complete install of American Racing headers. Wish I lived there for a day.
Here are my questions:
How difficult to install headers
What type headers for normally asperated and how much
Warranty thoughts
Where do you purchase the locking bolts
Any inputs on the above issues would be appreciated. thanks
Here are my questions:
How difficult to install headers
What type headers for normally asperated and how much
Warranty thoughts
Where do you purchase the locking bolts
Any inputs on the above issues would be appreciated. thanks
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
I did an ARH self install.
It is quite simple. basically unbolt, unclip, remove, install, re bolt re clip... one just needs to be thorough and meticulous in moving wiring looks out of the way.
A 4 post lift really helps, but they can be done on the ground.. i believe you need to have about 20 inches of clearance between the floor and the frame.
Count on two days if it is your first set of headers....
Give serious consideration to a tunnel plate while you are doing it....
It is quite simple. basically unbolt, unclip, remove, install, re bolt re clip... one just needs to be thorough and meticulous in moving wiring looks out of the way.
A 4 post lift really helps, but they can be done on the ground.. i believe you need to have about 20 inches of clearance between the floor and the frame.
Count on two days if it is your first set of headers....
Give serious consideration to a tunnel plate while you are doing it....
Racer
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 416
Likes: 11
From: Baltimore MD
Self-Installation of Headers
I did my own on my 2000. I have reasonable skills but not a gear head. Did a lot of research before starting. Worst part on the C5 was dropping the steering and raising the engine for room on the drivers side. Installed Melrose headers, part of Mongoose package. Ther were Jetcoated, good idea. JEGS for the bolts and new caskets to be safe. Not real expensive to be safe. Take you time and it should not be hard on the C6. Forgot to mention I have a Qwik Lift gets the wheels up 24 inches, was plenty of room for the headers. Cost approx 1600 for the headers.
Ron
Ron
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 752
Likes: 1
From: Tulsa OK
Kook's are great headers. Their instructions are easy to follow. And there are some good prices at various vendors.
The install is fairly easy and straight forward, I installed my Kooks in my garage with a friend helping in a few hours.
Different manufacturers have different issues with the header install. Some go in from the top some from the bottom. It just depends on the bends and how they are made. It is not much harder than an exhaust install it just involves more tear down and take longer.
The price you quoted for everything seems a bit high.
A good dyno tune - if that is what they are doing should be about $500. Are they doing a dyno tune, street tune or just flashing your computer with some new data like a mail order job. There is a big difference.
You should get a tune after the header install to maximize your investment in the headers but it is not critical if you don't do it immediately. The PCM will learn the new flow of your motor and adjust accordingly but the A/F ratio, timing, shift points, etc may not be optimized for your new set up until a tune is done.
You really don't need the locking flange bolts - if your stock metal gaskets are in good shape, just reuse them and torque your stock manifold bolts as recommended by the header manufacturer. Go through a few heat and cool cycles and re-torque the bolts as specified and you shouldn't have any problems. I have never had a leak or need to re-tighten my headers after the install.
The headers, cats and x-pipe should be less than $2,000. What kind of cats are you getting - there is a big range of pricing on cats as well.
That means your paying $750 for the labor. That is like $250 an hour.
If you do it yourself, you are making $250 an hour - do you make that much in your job? Personally, I hate to pay some to do something for me that I can do myself (especially if I enjoy doing it) at a high rate than I earn in my job. If I hate the task, its worth it to pay some one to do it.
You can shop American Racing Headers or any other brand all over the web to find out what the headers, cats and X-pipe will cost you. Then do the math to find out exactly what the labor is.
You should get a full break down in the quote anyway. Ask them for a written estimate with pricing on the parts, the tune and the install labor listed separately.
Don't be too impulsive, do your research, check the forum through the search engine for threads on header installs and try and get the best deal you can.
Good Luck.
The install is fairly easy and straight forward, I installed my Kooks in my garage with a friend helping in a few hours.
Different manufacturers have different issues with the header install. Some go in from the top some from the bottom. It just depends on the bends and how they are made. It is not much harder than an exhaust install it just involves more tear down and take longer.
The price you quoted for everything seems a bit high.
A good dyno tune - if that is what they are doing should be about $500. Are they doing a dyno tune, street tune or just flashing your computer with some new data like a mail order job. There is a big difference.
You should get a tune after the header install to maximize your investment in the headers but it is not critical if you don't do it immediately. The PCM will learn the new flow of your motor and adjust accordingly but the A/F ratio, timing, shift points, etc may not be optimized for your new set up until a tune is done.
You really don't need the locking flange bolts - if your stock metal gaskets are in good shape, just reuse them and torque your stock manifold bolts as recommended by the header manufacturer. Go through a few heat and cool cycles and re-torque the bolts as specified and you shouldn't have any problems. I have never had a leak or need to re-tighten my headers after the install.
The headers, cats and x-pipe should be less than $2,000. What kind of cats are you getting - there is a big range of pricing on cats as well.
That means your paying $750 for the labor. That is like $250 an hour.
If you do it yourself, you are making $250 an hour - do you make that much in your job? Personally, I hate to pay some to do something for me that I can do myself (especially if I enjoy doing it) at a high rate than I earn in my job. If I hate the task, its worth it to pay some one to do it.
You can shop American Racing Headers or any other brand all over the web to find out what the headers, cats and X-pipe will cost you. Then do the math to find out exactly what the labor is.
You should get a full break down in the quote anyway. Ask them for a written estimate with pricing on the parts, the tune and the install labor listed separately.
Don't be too impulsive, do your research, check the forum through the search engine for threads on header installs and try and get the best deal you can.
Good Luck.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 571
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee Wi
You can get the locking bolts from any performance shop. If your looking online you could check out Jeg's or Summit. The bolt thread is M8x1.25. I reused the factory bolts. I also ran a tap down each hole to clean it out and ran a die down each bolt to clean the threads up.
I just installed a set of headers almost completely by myself. I used the LS1 how to. I didn't remove the valve covers but did have to move the starter out of the way. That is where I needed an extra set of hands. I was using my mom's garage and had her come out and hold the header till I got the starter out of the way, then the header dropped down and that was basically it. Later on a friend stopped by and he started a header bolt on each side for me but I could have done that myself. I didn't measure the front but I used 3ton jackstands lifter all the way up and a hockey puck under the engine cradle and that was high enough to get the header in from the bottom on the driver's side. The passenger side went in from the top. I also installed a tunnel plate while I was down there. After taking 5 bolts out of the tunnel plate with just a ratchet I got my cordless drill and stuck an 8mm deep socket in it and went to town on the rest.
It isn't that hard, it took me about 7 hours total, taking my time and double checking everything. I could have done it a lot quicker. Would have also been quicker if I wouldn't have jacked it up all the way to start. I took off the factory headers and exhaust one night after work and finished it up the next day.
Ricky
I just installed a set of headers almost completely by myself. I used the LS1 how to. I didn't remove the valve covers but did have to move the starter out of the way. That is where I needed an extra set of hands. I was using my mom's garage and had her come out and hold the header till I got the starter out of the way, then the header dropped down and that was basically it. Later on a friend stopped by and he started a header bolt on each side for me but I could have done that myself. I didn't measure the front but I used 3ton jackstands lifter all the way up and a hockey puck under the engine cradle and that was high enough to get the header in from the bottom on the driver's side. The passenger side went in from the top. I also installed a tunnel plate while I was down there. After taking 5 bolts out of the tunnel plate with just a ratchet I got my cordless drill and stuck an 8mm deep socket in it and went to town on the rest.
It isn't that hard, it took me about 7 hours total, taking my time and double checking everything. I could have done it a lot quicker. Would have also been quicker if I wouldn't have jacked it up all the way to start. I took off the factory headers and exhaust one night after work and finished it up the next day.
Ricky
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 752
Likes: 1
From: Tulsa OK
P.S. Make sure you get stainless headers. Forget the mild steel with the coating - they don't hold up.
And as for the warranty, the product is warranted by the manufacturer not the installer. If you have a problem with the headers, you are going to have to pay some one to take them out and send them back for service and no one is going to do that for free. There is no warranty advantage to having some one else do the install.
Stainless headers are bullet proof. Mine have been in for almost three years and they still look great - no leaks - no cracks.
They are Kooks LTs, Hi-Flow cats and X-pipe.
And as for the warranty, the product is warranted by the manufacturer not the installer. If you have a problem with the headers, you are going to have to pay some one to take them out and send them back for service and no one is going to do that for free. There is no warranty advantage to having some one else do the install.
Stainless headers are bullet proof. Mine have been in for almost three years and they still look great - no leaks - no cracks.
They are Kooks LTs, Hi-Flow cats and X-pipe.
