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Coolant Drain Plug Question

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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 10:36 PM
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Default Coolant Drain Plug Question

I have a 97. My drain plug is different from the 2000 and up drain plug. What is the trick to getting it to open. I tried pulling out and turning and pushing in and turning. dont want to over do it cause I dont want to break it........
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 08:20 AM
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If it looks like either of these it should rotate 90 degrees ccw then pull out.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by cenzo
If it looks like either of these it should rotate 90 degrees ccw then pull out.
Zento, It looks like the one on the left. Only its white in color. The thing will move a little to left but not 90 degrees. Im afraid to go at it with pliers because I dont want to bust the thing. Ive jiggled and wiggled and it just wont turn. Any other suggestions? Thanks Rick
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 09:48 PM
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posted in your other thread
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Old Jul 21, 2007 | 09:56 AM
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Just make sure you have a replacement plug ready. Preferably the one with the tap. It's stuck due to the o ring but should free up if you work it gently back and forth. I had the other plug which really was difficult to work.
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Old Jul 21, 2007 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick1
Just make sure you have a replacement plug ready. Preferably the one with the tap. It's stuck due to the o ring but should free up if you work it gently back and forth. I had the other plug which really was difficult to work.
Thanks Nick, I guess that is my only option wiggle it back and forth my guess is your right and the o-ring is stuck up. Ive wiggled it back and forth quite a few times and it just dosnt want to break loose,so for now Ill leave it alone until I can get a replacement plug.
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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 09:32 AM
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Also, be careful to do the job when the coolant is cold. There seems to be no neat way to do this and there is going to be some spillage. The rinoramps were very helpful.
With mine, it appeared that it wasn' turning at all, or very little.
As someone had suggested, I had to pull out slightly at the same time as using a twisting counter clockwise. So, as you ar pulling back the plug can suddenly break free and then the gusher starts. No problem if its cold and the new plug is ready.
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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 11:35 AM
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I have had these type plugs stick where there is no way to break them loose by hand. I finally had to carefully grab the outside of the plug with larger pliers and wiggle it out.
Don't just try to rotate the plug 90 degrees. Look at the radiator housing where the plug goes in and find the slot. Rotate the plug so the pin lines up with the slot and the plug will come straight out. The radiator is made where you can rotate it more than 90 degrees and it will drain out the bottom without the plug coming out, but I have always been afraid it would end up cracking the housing because it puts a lot of pressure on the housing to force the plug out using the spiral groove in the radiator housing.
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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 12:14 PM
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Ok guys I got it to break loose. I just sprayed some slick 50 lube around the drain plug let it sit for an hour weny out and gave it a turn and it came loose. Didnt have time to change coolant so turned it back a quarter turn and it hasnt leaked a drop. For that matter it didnt leak anything out when I got it to break loose. So now when I do have time to change it same thing and pull and it will drain correct. Thanks Rick
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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Slick Rick
I have a 97. My drain plug is different from the 2000 and up drain plug. What is the trick to getting it to open. I tried pulling out and turning and pushing in and turning. dont want to over do it cause I dont want to break it........
Rick I posted a thread about the steering wheel lock problem. I was stuck out of state with a locked steering wheel & the dealer charged me for repair. You asked me to let you know what happened with gm. They offered me half of repair, which I refused & then they went for total repair. Thanks for your feedback. Rich
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Old May 23, 2009 | 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by TEXHAWK0
I have had these type plugs stick where there is no way to break them loose by hand. I finally had to carefully grab the outside of the plug with larger pliers and wiggle it out.
Don't just try to rotate the plug 90 degrees. Look at the radiator housing where the plug goes in and find the slot. Rotate the plug so the pin lines up with the slot and the plug will come straight out. The radiator is made where you can rotate it more than 90 degrees and it will drain out the bottom without the plug coming out, but I have always been afraid it would end up cracking the housing because it puts a lot of pressure on the housing to force the plug out using the spiral groove in the radiator housing.
Tried to change the coolant on my 02 Z06, but the plug was stuck. Or should I say I was affraid to break the radiator since the plug only moved a little.

My car has the white plug shown above. What is the idea behind the small pin shown on the plug? Is that supposed to do anything during the 90 degrees rotation? Does the spiral groove in the radioator help the plug out after the 90 degrees or during the 90 degrees? Reason for asking is that I would like to know what is supposed to happen before I make another attempt with the plug.
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Old May 23, 2009 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by C5_Z06
Tried to change the coolant on my 02 Z06, but the plug was stuck. Or should I say I was affraid to break the radiator since the plug only moved a little.

My car has the white plug shown above. What is the idea behind the small pin shown on the plug? Is that supposed to do anything during the 90 degrees rotation? Does the spiral groove in the radioator help the plug out after the 90 degrees or during the 90 degrees? Reason for asking is that I would like to know what is supposed to happen before I make another attempt with the plug.
The pin is the only thing, other than friction, that holds the plug in !

If you turn it past 90 degrees, you will brake the pin. New ones are about $5 at NAPA. My original 1998 plug had a 1/4 inch socket hole to turn it. Replacement has the hand "****" shown.
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Old May 23, 2009 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldvetter
The pin is the only thing, other than friction, that holds the plug in !

If you turn it past 90 degrees, you will brake the pin. New ones are about $5 at NAPA. My original 1998 plug had a 1/4 inch socket hole to turn it. Replacement has the hand "****" shown.
So for the first 90 degress the pin moves in a slot, after 90 degrees it starts to move outwards with the help of the spiral groove, or you can pull it straight outwards after the first 90 degrees? The risk is if you turn it past 90 degrees, did I get that right?
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Old May 23, 2009 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by C5_Z06
So for the first 90 degress the pin moves in a slot, after 90 degrees it starts to move outwards with the help of the spiral groove, or you can pull it straight outwards after the first 90 degrees? The risk is if you turn it past 90 degrees, did I get that right?
The groove is a spiral outward for a little past 90 degrees, which pushes the plug out as you rotate it. You can turn it past 90 degrees and the plug will stay in the slot and drain without the plug coming out.
If you want to remove the plug, you have to rotate the plug until the pin lines up with the slot that runs perpendicular to the radiator (parallel to the plug). Then you can wiggle the plug until it pulls straight out of the radiator.

If you rotate the plug past 90 degrees with the pin still in the spiral slot, eventually the pin will hit the end of the slot. If you keep turning the plug past this point, you can break the pin off.
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 01:00 PM
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Changed the coolant today. Once the plug started to move there was no problem getting it out. It's also possible to get into the spiral groove (past 90 degrees) without breaking the pin. Atleast that worked on my car. There is a small notch that holds the plug in the closed position. It was that forced that had to be reached, once it's past that part it was no problem.

I got about 2 gallons out of the car, it that what it usually is without removing any of the plugs on the engine block?
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by C5_Z06
Changed the coolant today. Once the plug started to move there was no problem getting it out. It's also possible to get into the spiral groove (past 90 degrees) without breaking the pin. Atleast that worked on my car. There is a small notch that holds the plug in the closed position. It was that forced that had to be reached, once it's past that part it was no problem.

I got about 2 gallons out of the car, it that what it usually is without removing any of the plugs on the engine block?
About 2 gallons is what I usually get to drain from just the radiator. The whole system holds 3 gallons, so there is a gallon left in the block. Just add 50/50 mixture back and you should be done.
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 06:03 PM
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Everybody has their own way of pulling maintenance on their cars. I don't leave a gallon of old coolant in the block. After the initial drain, I close the plug, fill it with distilled water, run the engine for a couple of minutes and then drain it. I do that 2 or 3 times until the water draining out is pretty clear. Then close the plug, pour in the amount of DEX-COOL that is half the capacity of the system and top it off with distilled water. That way you have 3 gallons of fresh water and coolant.
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Oldvetter
The pin is the only thing, other than friction, that holds the plug in !
New ones are about $5 at NAPA. My original 1998 plug had a 1/4 inch socket hole to turn it. Replacement has the hand "****" shown.
That is strange. The original plug on my '98 had the thumb ****. The replacement plug I just bought at the dealer today, (one size fits all C5, part #52484010 $5.66), has the socket hole. Gonna put it in tomorrow.

Another puzzlement, yesterday' I turned the original ccw far enough that the plug came completely out. It did not have the little detent pin on it (wasn't aware at the time there should be one). I drained the radiator, put the old plug back in and twisted it tight. Refilled. Drove the car 35 miles with no problems or leaks. What the heck is holding the old plug in? Seems like the pressure after getting up to temp would pop it.

Last edited by PierEagle; Nov 29, 2009 at 03:23 AM.
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 03:39 AM
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Went to Advance Auto today and found the black plug pictured in CENZO's post above. Went ahead and bought it for a spare. It will fit but app info on package says "GM 1996-94. Nothing like good info. The dealer must be selling the "new improved version" and aftermarket has the thumb tab style. Other than the thumb tab style being 5/16" longer overall, everything else in the same.

Apparently the only thing holding the original one that I put back in is tight pucker strings, cause the detent pin ain't there. Need to replace that sucker asap.

Last edited by PierEagle; Nov 30, 2009 at 03:48 AM.
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 09:39 PM
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Thanks guys! I am ready the NAPA replacement Part 605-1371, it cost $7.89, even with my AAA discount here in the Greatland. But everything cost more in Alaska.

The off-white OEM drain **** plug, pictured above, wouldn't move the 1/4 turn with a 1/4 inch drive racket extension. Just spun a bigger hole in drain plug of our 04 ZO6 with 16K miles. However, this thread and 8Vette7's post in http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...g-purging.html gave me the confidence to just use needlenose pliers to turn original 1/4 ccw and put it out complete with pin.

I'll gladly discard the OEM and use my new drain plug with Thumb tabs.
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