LOL then it broke again 30 min's later, DAMMIT! Anyways, I went Auto-Xing this weekend and in the middle of a run my abs and traction control came on, well it was WEIRD. I just started working out of nowhere.

I was running stock diameter (17/18) grey gm wheels and tires. After the car wash and bolting up the 18'' chrome aftermarket wheels I went to go get something to eat it BAM it they damn lights came back on ****!!

Is there reason to believe that a bigger diameter wheel may cause the EBCM to fail? I have a friend that is convinced that this is why its broken in the first place...

Auto-Xing vids...:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=4pgKsyQEt2g

http://youtube.com/watch?v=y91sTlQ-uqY

fun ones hehehe

http://youtube.com/watch?v=hG8bZHrKXOU

http://youtube.com/watch?v=eagpADQw9ZM



yes and after all this torture it fixed it. I wonder if 17'' wheels made a diffrence.

Can the car be tuned for 18" wheels


Jerry

 

Hey Jerry.. running the same diameter tires front and back will cause problems. I don't really think the wheels have anything to do with it. When I checked your codes and couldn't clear the ones for your EBCM, I kinda agreed with you that it was messed up. I figured it would reset with the car sitting still. Maybe it won't reset until it runs a bit with the correct size tires. Maybe the autox moved a cold solder joint, if so, it might be worth running though it with a soldering iron. Could just be bad connections. I'm sure somebody will have some input here :-)

 

lol hey Mike!! This is the friend i was talking about! We'll see what people have to say Mike!

Jerry

 

Tire size has nothing to do with it. All the T1 racers run the same diameter front and rear. I have run 275/40-17 & 315/35-17 as well as 315 front and rear with no issues.

Bad grounds or loose connections. Read Bill Curlee sticky and go looking for your electrical gremlins.

 

yeah i've read his thread like 3 times. but i'm talking about running 18'' wheels up front? would that make a diffrence? the rears always have had 18''s

 

just about all C5 oem EBCM's go bad eventually. Your recent "activity" probably caused it to defect. Here's my suggestion:


When there is a problem anywhere in the system, the computer does not know what's going on with the car or cannot respond correctly. Rather than risking the wrong response which could potentially wreck you car, the whole system is simply disabled for the remainder of the ignition cycle. At this time you will see the ABS and Traction Control warning indicators illuminated on the instrument cluster along with the following messages on the Driver Information Center (DIC):
- Service ABS
- Service Traction System
- Service Active Handling

At this point, you can safely continue to drive your car, just remember that your electronic driving aids are no longer functioning so you should adjust your driving habits accordingly.

Troubleshooting

As I said before, when there is a problem the system is deactivated for the remainder of the ignition cycle, so sometimes everything will go back to normal if you just turn off the car and restart it. If that corrects the problem, it was either a glitch in the system, a lose connection that's going to come back soon or an early sign of a future failure that is coming. Even though the system is now functional it is still beneficial to continue to trouble shoot. The history code should give you a good idea of what to check

The next step is to see where the fault is. If you have several different codes write them down, clear them, and see which ones come back the next time you start the car. At this point, I'm betting that the codes point to the EBCM

Electronic Brake Control Module

The most common code for the EBCM is C1214 - Sol Valve relay Contact or coil CKT Open. This code is set when the system voltage is less than 8 volts for 0.23 seconds.

The EBCM sits between the engine and radiator. You can see it in the picture on the left below. The EBCM is on the left with the large wire harness coming into it and the sticker on top. The Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) in on the right with the brake lines coming out. The EBCM is a dry module, meaning that you can change it out without having to worry about bleeding the ABS system. All of the brake fluid is contained within the BPMV. The coils (seen in the picture on the right below) fit over small spools that have valves inside them. The valves are operated by an electromagnetic field supplied by the coils.

Start by doing a quick visual inspection of the wires. If there are any obvious signs of damage, you've likely found the problem. One member had a problem with the wires rubbing the serpentine belt



Also check to make sure the wire harness has a good connection. If the connection appears solid disconnect it (see step 3 in the replacement instructions below) check the pins to ensure that they have not been bent or damaged in any way. If there is any sign of corrosion, clean it off. Once everything looks good, reseat the harness.


Next, let's move on to the grounds. The EBCM is grounded to the chassis on the left frame rail, just forward of the engine. It's the Black box right in the middle of the picture. As you can see, it's real easy for dirt and moisture to get in that area which isn't exactly good for electronic components. Even if you never drive your car in the rain, it'll still get wet when you wash it, and that could be enough

Start by unbolting the chassis ground, then take the chassis ground connector apart.


clean off the chassis and bolt to make sure you've got a good clean ground.

*If you are having any other electrical issues, it's a good idea to check the grounds.

Now on the EBCM itself. If the electrical contacts inside the relay are dirty or burnt, the vibration from striking the module may change the symptoms or may clear them up for a while. This is by no means a fix or a cure all, in fact it could make it worse or it may not do anything, it's just something to try. Use a small plastic hammer or something similar, lightly tap the front of the EBCM on the lower right corner of the module. The area will be on the right hand side of the lower electrical connection seen in the picture below.
At this point, You've got additional possibilities. Replace the EBCM or replace both the EBCM and the BPMV. The service manual calls for you to measure the resistance between each pump motor control circuit and the housing of the BPMV, if that checks our okay, you replace the EBCM if not you replace them both. Since most people do not have the equipment to do this the best we can do is to replace the EBCM. If that doesn't work, you'll have to go back and replace the BPMV.

The procedure for replacing the EBCM is very simple. The only special tool you need is a T-20 torx screw driver. I have a Craftsman tool set that has a 1/4" drive screwdriver with and adapter for many different size bit. Unfortunately, the adapter was to long to fit between the EBCM and water pump, so I purchased a set of Craftsman 5 pc. torx screwdriver set that worked fine. A flathead screwdriver may also be needed to pry apart the EBCM from the BPMV

1 - make sure the car is off.
2 - you will probably need to remove the airbridge to get to the EBCM.
3 - remove the wire harness by first removing the white plastic clip that locks it in place (I cut it off and replaced it with a zip-tie) , then lift gray handle and pull back on the wire harness At this point, you will be able to see the second wire connection that is removed by pulling down .
4 - The service manual call for you the remove the 2 insulator nuts that hold the BPMV to the brackets and lift the EBCM/BPMV out of the bracket. I do not think this step is necessary because there is plenty of room while it is still in the bracket and you do not gain much additional clearance since the brake lines restrict the movement.
5 - Remove the 6 T-20 torx screws connecting the EBCM and BPMV - 1 on each corner and 2 on the sides.
6 - "Separate the EBCM from the BPMV by gently pulling apart until separated" - I should start laughing here, but it's not that funny. It's been my experience that anytime the instructions call for you to do something gently, nothing gentle is going to work. In this case, I had to use a flathead screw driver to brake the seal. Once it moved a little, the rest was easy. In addition to the rubber seal, each of the 12 holes have a peg in them from the BPMV. Don't go crazy, but be prepared to force them apart.
7 - At this point, all you've got to do is put it all back together. push the repaired EBCM onto the BPMV.
8 - Replace the 6 T-20 torx screws
9 - reconnect the wire harness
10 - put the intake back on


An alternative to buying a new one is to have your original rebuilt.
For EBCM repair/replace

Call Brandon

877-648-7530 at ABS FIXER



or: www.absfixer.com



$150. plus UPS....warranted as long as You own it


At this point, the AH/TC/ABS should work normally.

 

Trussme thank you very much for spending at least 30 mins writing this up. Thank you really. I called Brandon a while back and yeah i'm all over abs fixer. That is really GREAT INFORMATION.

I just find it weird that after all that punishment i gave the car it decided to fix itself and when i drove her calm it came back on again.

again thanks!

 

You're Welcome kornfreak. BTW, I keep that "tutorial" of mine in My Documents...so, when anybody cries "help"...it takes me 10 seconds to copy & paste it anywhere...Bill T

 

lol thanks! i kinda figured you may have copy-pasted...

 

I had this happen on my 99 C5 about 4 years ago. The system shut down in the middle of a corner and wouldn't reset.

I found a female pin in a canon plug under the car that wasn't locked into the plug.

I disconnected the plug on the anti skid at the module on the left front side of the engine and did a continuity check on the harness under the car. The bad pin was in the plug that is shaped like a candy bar in the area under the cockpit.

No problems since.

Cheers, Curt

 

Sorry, I should have mentioned that the 275/40 and 315/35 are the same O.D.

You would have the same situation with 18 front and rear. My neighbor runs 18 front and rear on track, also with no issues.

If the car "fixed itself, I would suspect the problem is electrical connections. Good luck and let us know how this gets resolved.

 

thanks will do!

 

I had an EBCM issue that was like yours. It came on and off whenever it felt like. Happened three times. I called the Absfixer and he said it was normal for them not to just go all at once. I sent mine to him and the issue was cured. I highly recommend the absfixer.com.

 

 

I run 18" wheels front and rear with no problems. GL

 

me too! no problems 145 mph+

 

It was the car wash