how to change a spark plug for C5



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Someone mentioned torquing but there is no need to torque spark plugs.


I can see there are four on each side, but i'm working on one by one
Its my first Vette and I'm new to all of these.
I Just want to know what are the step because when some of you saying about #4 and #7
I have no idea what you people are talking about.
Can someone out help me break it down in STEP...
Iam A GIRL and its not like do this everything...The manual book doesn't show... Please Thank you..
because I can't get the spark plug out. I figure if I go on Corvette Forum there might be some people out there that have a better way to take it out. That's All.... THANK YOU Everyone...
I can see there are four on each side, but i'm working on one by one
Its my first Vette and I'm new to all of these.
I Just want to know what are the step because when some of you saying about #4 and #7
I have no idea what you people are talking about.
Can someone out help me break it down in STEP...
Iam A GIRL and its not like do this everything...The manual book doesn't show... Please Thank you..
OK ... the cylinders are numbered .... picture the engine if as if you were looking down on it from directly above ... the #1, #3, #5, and #7 cylinders are on the left side of the car ... with the #1 cylinder being the forward most, and the #7 being the one at the rear of the engine. If it helps, the #7 is the one closest to the driver.
On the other side, they are, of course .... numbered 2,4,6, and 8 with the forward cylinder being number 2 and the rear being number 8. The #8 is closest to the passenger.
Because the #7 is surrounded by some "plumbing" it is difficult for many of us ham fisted guys to get our hands in there to get to it easily. Smaller hands are a big plus in getting to that plug.
Next post ... step by step instructions .....
3/8 drive ratchet, spark plug socket, extension and a swivel will do it. (although you can do it without a swivel.)
You won't find a Haynes or other "cheap" manual for the C5 Corvette ... the factory service manual is all that is available, and runs about $150.00 for the set. I see you're relatively close to me, so if you have to, send me an email at sbarnes@covad.net and I can possibly loan you some assistance, or the manual.
Changing the plugs ....
1) Start with the engine COLD. This will make it easier on you not working on something that might burn you, but it is also believed that pulling a plug from a hot engine can cause damage as the cool air suddenly enters the very hot engine.
2) Remove the fuel rail covers ... you've probably already done this ... they are the plastic covers that say CORVETTE on them. Proabably black on your car ... red on a Z06. They just snap onto the fuel rails, so to remove just lift (pull) them up and toward you. There are no screws or bolts that hold them on.
3) Start with the #1 plug, or any plug you feel is EASY to get too ... for the first one make it easy on yourself to figure out how to get them out and in .....
4) Remove the plug wire from the plug ... DO NOT pull on the wire ... pull the cap off the plug .... some people find it helps to try to turn the cap slightly while pulling on the cap.
5) Notice that the plug is "angled" into the head ... you'll need to put the new one in at about the same angle ... so look closely at the angle before you remove it.
6) put the spark plug socket on the end of your extension and (this is how I do it) without the ratchet on it .... hand fit the socket over the plug turning it until you feel the socket fit properly over the plug.
7) Again ... notice the "angle" on the socket and extension. Place the ratchet on the extension and turn the plug counter-clockwise to remove. After the initial force needed to break the plug "loose" ... I prefer to again remove the ratchet and rotate the plug out by hand.
8) Remove plug from socket and insert new plug. What type of plugs are you using ?? Be sure they are gapped correctly, though if you are using the AC/Delco 41-985 plugs they are correctly pre-gapped at .040 inches
9) Place a small amount of anti-seize compound around the thread of the plug. I use a copper based one ... you only need to get the compound on the first 2 or 3 threads closest to the tip. Wipe off any excass, or any that gets on the inside of the plug or the electrode.
10) BY HAND .... WARNING ... THIS IS IMPORTANT ... BY HAND .... NO RATCHET .... JUST THE plug in the SOCKET with the EXTENSION ON IT .... slowly and gently put the plug back into place. You will have to do this by feel ... but the head is shaped so if you approach the engine at the same angle (remember, I said to remember that angle) the plug will be guided back into the hole. Start turning the plug (clockwise) BY HAND until you feel the plug is correctly threaded and is screwing into the head. It should be VERY easy to thread the plug all the way into the engine ... if you fell ANY resistance you probably didn't get the right angle ... but trust me ... if you inseert the plug GENTLY and EASILY it should just thread right on in.
11) BY HAND continue to screw the plug in until you feel it "seat".
12) NOW you can put the ratchet onto the extension and tighten the plug to 11 lb. ft. ... if you don't have a torque wrench just tighten "firmly" until you feel the plug "stop". DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN ... the head is Aluminum and you can "strip" the threads out of the head ... which is EXPENSIVE to fix.
13) replace plug wire on the plug. When all plugs are done snap the fuel rail covers in place.
14 IMPORTANT ... if you skip this step you will suffer DIRE CONSEQUENCES ... after starting engine and listening to it purr ... go inside ... pour yourself a LARGE glass of your favorite beverage ... and then


THANK YOU ALL>>>> Okay i'm gonna try to work on it this weekend..and if I run into problem I will BOTHER YOU GUY..agian heehee












