C6Z shifter alignment
Just installed the C6 Z06 shifter in my C5Z, along with new transmission/differential fluid. And I also did the anti venom mod. Found out about proper shifter alignment AFTER the install.
So took everything apart and noticed the alignment was pretty good, if anything just slight aft (toward rear of center). So I moved the shifter fore using flashlight method to dead center.
Well now I think that made it slightly worse. So does that mean the shifter does not have to be aligned dead center to be smooth?
So took everything apart and noticed the alignment was pretty good, if anything just slight aft (toward rear of center). So I moved the shifter fore using flashlight method to dead center.
Well now I think that made it slightly worse. So does that mean the shifter does not have to be aligned dead center to be smooth?
I recently installed a B&M shifter and have also been playing around with the alignment. I aligned it perfectly at first, with the pin from the OEM shifter in the hole, and it was really tough getting it into first, as well as the shift to second. I played around a bit with the alignment, with all the plastic and rubber off so I could make quick adjustments. Right now I've got it about an eigth of an inch forward of "perfect" and it's OK, but still tougher than I would like. I plan on moving it around again, and if I can't get it to where I like it, I'll probably go back to stock. I like the shorter throws, but the extra effort just isn't worth it to me. It's not that I can't wrestle it into gear, I just don't see the point of the extra effort - kind of takes some of the joy out of the drive. Good luck with your's.
Tried a bunch of different adjustments this weekend. In the end I realized that this is a vette and there is no way I'm going to get it to shift like a hot knife thru butter. There will probably be some notchiness. Overall, I still like the C6 shifter better than the C5.
More interestingly, I found that if I depress the clutch about two seconds ealier than normal, I can get into 1st gear much easier and smoother. This applies to situations when the car comes to a full stop and then starts off again (stop signs or traffic lights). So I just have to remember to clutch in earlier when I'm about to go into first.
With reverse, it's very smooth if I go straight from 1st into reverse as opposed to neutral to reverse. Since the car is normally parked in 1st already, all I do is clutch in when I start the car, and go straight to reverse from there. Very smooth. Neutral to reverse tends to be harder. All the other gears are very smooth.
I removed the anti venom mod because I thought it made my shifter a little too loose, without removing the notchiness.
More interestingly, I found that if I depress the clutch about two seconds ealier than normal, I can get into 1st gear much easier and smoother. This applies to situations when the car comes to a full stop and then starts off again (stop signs or traffic lights). So I just have to remember to clutch in earlier when I'm about to go into first.
With reverse, it's very smooth if I go straight from 1st into reverse as opposed to neutral to reverse. Since the car is normally parked in 1st already, all I do is clutch in when I start the car, and go straight to reverse from there. Very smooth. Neutral to reverse tends to be harder. All the other gears are very smooth.
I removed the anti venom mod because I thought it made my shifter a little too loose, without removing the notchiness.
I have the C6 Z06 shifter and did the anti-venom mod, and I have to say the car (99 FRC) does shift very smoothly. The shifter might have a little looseness in it, but it beats the notchiness I had before.
I wish I could give some technical advice on the subject but I am not too good at mechanics although I am working on that. Lucky I have a brother that is a very, very good mechanic. I do know that we experimented with the number and width of the washers when we did the anti-venom mod. Wanted to reduce the force of the spring but not so much that there was not resistance. I think we ended up using 2 washers.
I wish I could give some technical advice on the subject but I am not too good at mechanics although I am working on that. Lucky I have a brother that is a very, very good mechanic. I do know that we experimented with the number and width of the washers when we did the anti-venom mod. Wanted to reduce the force of the spring but not so much that there was not resistance. I think we ended up using 2 washers.
I just had my MN6 rebuilt and I noticed that going into second gear above 3K RPM the gear grinds a little. If I let the RPM's slide down, it shifts without any effort or gear grind. Does this mean the shifter is out of alignment, or it needs the anti-venom Modification? I've allowed the Transmission to break in for 500 Mi with low RPM's and smooth shifting. New I have 3K Mi on it and it still shifts poorly. Any input would be great?
1. Open up your hood and check your clutch fluid. If it's brown or black, change the fluid. Dirty fluid can cause gear grinding and less than smooth shifting action. Just search under clutch fluid. Also, a gentleman by the name Ranger knows a lot about this stuff. Thanks Ranger.
2. Read Ranger's posts about how to shift properly. After learning how to do this using his methods, I'm extremely very happy with my shifter now. What was clunky and notchy before is now smooth and continuous.
3. Finally, check to see if your shifter is align properly. Patches has a couple good posts on how to remove the center console to get access to the shifter. Very easy to do, so thanks Patches. The only special tool you'll need is the torx #15 and #40 (#20 if you have the C6 shifter).
As I've said, I'm very happy with my shifter now. Much smoother and less notchy than before. For me, the problem wasn't the shifter out of adjustment. It was me not knowing how to shift properly.
Before, I would grab the shifter with my whole hand and force the shifter into gears. Now, I use the ball of my hand to get into gears 1,3, 5, and R while using my fingers (except the thumb) to get into 2,4, and 6.
I simply guide the shifter toward the gear I want with a little force and the shifter simply glides into gear. I read that this has something to do with the synchro something. And they need time to get into gear. You can't just rush it into gear.
As far as some difficulty getting into R, I now park the car in reverse (manual recommends this) so it's rarely a problem anymore. I've said previously that going from 1st to R is very easy for me. So I utilitze that method as well.
For 1st gear, I clutch in earlier than before and sometimes would put in 1st as the car rolls to a stop (I think this is ok). Again not forcing, but guide it toward first and feel the shifter go into gear. Very easy now. I love my car!
Good luck.













