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I've got the same problem except when I use the automatic twilight function to turn the lights on the dash does work. Go figure? You might try this to see if it'll patch you through until we solve the riddle. I did find one other thread that blames the light switch stem for many light ills. If I don't get any other advice I might try replacing that.
For cars with the Twilight Sentinel, there are two different cluster illumination controls. The BCM controls the brightness of the display indicators such as the DIC, HVAC and so on. The controls for those come from two different places. During the day, the illumination information to the BCM comes from the light sensor at the top of the DIC buttons. During the night, the information comes directly from the dimmer control to the BCM. This is all for the indicators themselves. I don't know if there is a seperate circuit for the cluster background illumination or not, but we know that the dimmer controls it too during the night, so I'm guessing that it its the same.
There isn't a bulb as such. There are two high voltage tubes on the sides of the cluster that provide illumination. On the rear of the cluster is a high voltage power supply for this purpose. I bought myself an extra cluster off Ebay long ago just in case mine ever went bad. So far, mine are working fine.